| Author | Message | ||
     Steve Burns (Steve99) New Member Username: Steve99 Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2003 |
The factory Brush Bar for a Disco II can pivot up fairly easily. Should it be welded? Is that a good idea? | ||
| EricV (Bender2033) Member Username: Bender2033 Post Number: 171 Registered: 08-2002 |
Here's a sure fire fix: 1) take it off 2) put it on ebay 3) put the proceeds towards a better bumper (tmj, arb, rovertym, etc) I'm still saving for mine!  | ||
| Steve Burns (Steve99) New Member Username: Steve99 Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2003 |
I have had the truck for over a year and I will get a new bumper eventually. I wanted the brush bar for a front strap location for my kayaks. I put a couple of chrome eyehooks where the driving lights mount. It works out well for that, the straps do not rub on the hood. The brush bar is literally a hood ornament but a little function would be nice, it is not strong enough now for brush. | ||
| EricV (Bender2033) Member Username: Bender2033 Post Number: 172 Registered: 08-2002 |
If I recall correctly, on the D1's the brush bar is secured by a total of 6 bolts. I would think that most damage would be caused by the "wings" getting shoved into the hood/fender buy a tree, etc. But you have a D2 so my post is meaningless. SO instead tell us about your kayaks! I've been wanting to get one for years now. But at 6'4" 265 lbs I dont think I will be fitting into a tiny play boat anytime soon.  I have been looking at sit-on tops for general farting about in as well as small canoes. Richmond is the only US city that has class iv whitewater going thru the downtown area. Good luck with your brush bar! Take a photo of your D2 with kayaks on top! | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 274 Registered: 02-2003 |
steeve, DO NOT weld it to the frame if thats what you mean. because the holes are sloted it allows the rush bar to rotate. try using larger diameter bolts to hold it on. if the thru hole in the frame is bigger that hte slot in the brush bar, with one side still bolted securely drill the slot bigger so there is a lobe in it. then slide in the bigger bolt (i dont know if this will actually work but it is what i did on my ARB bumper) and it should help with any rotating. because the frame is hollow you can tighten it to high heaven and it still never gets tight enough. rd | ||
| Steve Burns (Steve99) New Member Username: Steve99 Post Number: 5 Registered: 04-2003 |
I do not mean welding it to the frame. The bolts there are fine. The problem is with the slotted mounts that come with the brush bar that bolt to the frame. I want to weld the brush bar to the slotted mounts that BOLT to the frame. Just a couple of small tack welds to keep the bar from pivoting up and hitting the hood. The bolts are the largest size that will fit through the brush bar; the play is not there. The play is in the slotted mounts that hang from the frame. I know this will make for a problem in removing the brush bar and it will probably seal my fate in getting a parking lot scrape that will make me want to remove the factory bumper, which I will not be able to do (that is when I will get the a new bumper). If I leave it the way it is the bar is going to do more harm than good. Also if I have the driver’s side, with the access panel welded I can use that as a light recovery point. The recovery loop needed to be removed to attach the brush bar mounting brackets. | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Senior Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 277 Registered: 08-2002 |
Steve, I contemplated the same thing on my D2. I did what Rob has suggested as an interim step, helps but I don't think I'd hook onto it for anything serious. If I need to in the future stiffen it up, I will weld the bar to the mounting bracket along the bottom at a location where in the future if it needs to come off, all you'd need to do is grind off the weld and seperate. It's the wifes grocery getter now ...one step at a time. | ||
| Steve Burns (Steve99) New Member Username: Steve99 Post Number: 6 Registered: 04-2003 |
Todd, That is what I am going to do. The right side will get a tack weld on the back of the mount and the left side with the access panel will get a bead along the bottom that can be ground off or cut off (depending on why the bar is coming off). Like you said one step at a time. My Disco is still a nice SUV slowly on it’s way to an off road machine. |
