| Author | Message | ||
     Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 276 Registered: 02-2003 |
now that i have my truck fixed and running good (this week) my friends decided to shit the bed. it idles fine. but if you rev up the engine it might have a sound like it's missing. if you drive down the road barely giving it gas it� is relatively okay, though very little power.� if you try to gas it up a hill (even the slightest grade) it misses and makes popping noises and sounds like it is running on three cylinders. what has been recently replaced in past two months. stepper motor fuel pump fuel lines base plate wires plugs rotor (twice first one was bad) dist cap. now, this happens if the car is hot or cold. we checked the timing yesterday and it was at 12 deg BTDC and we moved it back to 6 deg. this must have happened when we replaced the base plate. also when we did the base plate, the air gap was supposed to be set with no adjustment needed. we checked and it was at .040 "!!� we set it back to .015" still runs like junk. just pulled the plugs this AM and they are all fouled up and black, as expected because of the misfiring. we are at a near total loss. the one strange thing that we have found was that according to the manual you should be able to take the dist cover off and hold the HT lead 1/8" above the rotor and get NO SPARK. the first rotor we put on got spark and proved to be faulty. we replaced it and now the replacement gets spark. i tried the one from my car and IT GETS SPARK, but doesn't get spark on my car (like it's supposed to) we ran that test a few times and one of the latest times there wasn't any spark for a couple seconds and then BAM! arced to my friends finger. anybody know what's up? ECU maybe? we have a spare alternator that he is installing just in case. some times his Tach needle stick low then all the sudden pops up. any advice appreciated rob | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 156 Registered: 10-2002 |
Check for excessive distributor bearing wear. Put in one of your good 89 or 88 distributors and I bet probs go away. My $.02 | ||
| Sabine Dawn (Sabine_dawn) New Member Username: Sabine_dawn Post Number: 14 Registered: 04-2003 |
Check the coil too. just for the heck of it, after the distributor. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 277 Registered: 02-2003 |
forgot to mention the coil's was replaced a few months ago rd | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 157 Registered: 10-2002 |
Distributor bearing??? Er, that should be excessive dist. bushing wear. My bad... | ||
| LEON KEDZIERSKI (Rovertech) New Member Username: Rovertech Post Number: 31 Registered: 12-2002 |
HELLO, ONE THING YOU SHOULD CHECK IS TO MAKE SURE THE ADVANCE SPRINGS HAVE NOT COME OFF THE WEIGHTS.A LOT OF TIMES WHEN YOU GO TO REPLACE THE ROTOR IT STICKS ON THE SHAFT AND PULLS UP ON THE SHAFT WHEN YOU TUG ON THE ROTOR.WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE ADVANCE SPRINGS COME OFF OF THE WEIGHTS. TO CHECK, GRAB THE ROTOR AND TWIST IT SLIGHTLY. YOU SHOULD FEEL SMOOTH MOVEMENT WITH A SPRINGY RETURN. IF IT FEELS ROUGH,DOESNOT MOVE OR RETURN . YOU MAY HAVE FOUND YOUR PROBLEM. IF YOU HAVE REPLACED THE ROTOR TWICE IT IS POSSIBLE THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED.AS FAR AS THE SPARKING TO THE ROTOR, IF YOU HAVE IT OMLY 1/8" AWAY AND IT IS SPARKING TO THE ROTOR, TRY ANOTHER.NAPA #EP72 AC#E428C BECK ARNLY #173-7875 KEEP ME POSTED LEON | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 279 Registered: 02-2003 |
keep the ideas flowing guys. last night completely removed the distributor from the truck. cleaned up all excess oils from within the unit and tidied up the outside with a rag. removed base plate and looked at springs underneath, they look/work great. reinstalled base plate & set air gap at .010 +/-.001"� reattached amplifier after cleaning and reapplying grease to back, everything is tight. checked timing , it's right ar 6 deg BTDC changed AGAIN to new spark plugs because the old ones were totally fouled from running engine like it is. used the rotor and cap from my truck which is running fine and put it on the troubled truck and it STILL runs like shit. we are trying to source another "test" distributor we can throw in and see if it makes a difference. totally without direction on what could be wrong. going to start going thru the truck and clean/tighten and ground wire we see with fingers crossed. could it be the internal components of the engine went bad? should we be doing a compression check p.s. it hasn't thrown an engine code yet either. | ||
| Jaime (Blueboy) Senior Member Username: Blueboy Post Number: 635 Registered: 02-2002 |
jeeze Rob - that beast is giving you some problems! good luck man on getting this sorted out. Jaime | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 683 Registered: 09-2002 |
Rob, were all plugs fouled or some much worse than others? peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 281 Registered: 02-2003 |
all equally black and sooty. someone on RN bbs suggested the alternator. we did not change that out yet as the meter showed the one in there as being good. will do that tonight. when we removed the dist. yesterday, there was only a hair if any play in the shaft going thru the disrtibutor. also what is the "dizzy" is this another name for the rotor? i keep reading about it and dont know what it's called in land rover talk. rob | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 43 Registered: 03-2003 |
Rob, Have you tried swapping out ignition control module just for shits and giggles? Also check all vacuum hoses, especially the ends for cracking and splitting. This is a dumb question but could your timing be off by one tooth or more? | ||
| Shane (Shane) Member Username: Shane Post Number: 47 Registered: 07-2002 |
dizzy is the distributor I assume you changed the fuel filter? Air filter too? | ||
| J. Michael McCaig (Lrover) New Member Username: Lrover Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2003 |
Did you replace the ignition amplifier or just clean up the old one? It's sounds just like the symptoms I had when mine went bad. I would check that first. It does sound like it's ignition related. With no codes and if your fuel pressure is correct then I doubt if it is a problem with the EFI. Good Luck, Mike | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 282 Registered: 02-2003 |
fuel filter and air filter freshly changed. have not done the ignition module yet. it's liek the only thing left, but when mine went bad the truck just didnt run, tis is liek the timing is extreemly far off. the truck was running this way before we pulled the dist out. and it is running this way now after we changed it. the timing light claims its in time. grasping at straw guesses: charcoal canister: have not messed with it. dont know if it would effect this ignition amplifier: have not changed it out YET. alternator: will change tonight i think it ate the current (3 week old) dist cap. from the faulty sparking. the metal leads on the inside are all crusty with recast metal deposits (or so it appears) | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 690 Registered: 09-2002 |
Guess it is way far-reaching - I'd pull one of the valve covers off and made sure the valves are closed when the piston is at TDC after compression stroke. It is not trivial to see if the timing chain jumped a tooth, but possible. other than that... if there's spark, air, and fuel, it's got to run. peter | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 691 Registered: 09-2002 |
actually... you can use a hose with compressed air, manually turn the crankshaft to reach the TDC (can be checked with flashlight and mirror, or a little wooden stick), and check if the air is leaking out of the cylinder. It should be rather obvious when you do the compression check, but my guess would be that it depends on how wide the cam lobes are. peter | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 158 Registered: 10-2002 |
If popped teeth on timing gear then put hand over exhaust with engine running you'll feel distinct pulsing (sucking/pushing). Similiar symptoms if a burned valve. I still think it's dist. related. Hall effect signals screwed up (short in dist?), ignition module, or possible vacuum advance prob. (ruled out mech. advance problem with springs/weights being OK) My $.02 | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 285 Registered: 02-2003 |
i think it's not the distributor, i'm starting to think the exhaust is plugged / back pressure is fucked or something like that. wont be doing any tests tonight. a bunch tomorrow rd | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 699 Registered: 09-2002 |
Rob, that one is really easy to do. Hook up a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, put the truck in gear, and (with your left foot firmly on the brake pedal) keep opening up the throttle until about 1500-2000 rpm. Observe the vacuum readings. If your cats are plugged, the vacuum will drop to 2-5 inHg (1-2.5psi). If the exhaust is okay, you'll see something like 10-12 inHg. peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 289 Registered: 02-2003 |
or we just unhooked the pipes and tried it without them on last night , no difference, the AMP modual arrived today. $53 from xkslandrover.com best price on the net. going to change that the alternator and do a fuel pressure test tonight. incase you were wondering peter i purchase an inline port so that i can check pressure now. my brother-in-law works for a GM dealer as a Tech and got it for me for $10. rd | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2002 |
I saw this on the RN board. You might check ground connections. A loose one/bad connection will cause trouble. The sooty plugs make me think the cylinders are getting fuel, just not firing or firing at the right time. Too much fuel could be the fuel pressure regulator. How about the correct firing order on the plug wires? Other efi related stuff to check: the ECU, engine speed signal, injector circuit, fuel temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, air bypass valve, throttle potentiometer, airflow sensor, and gear switch input. The manual is needed to guide testing these. Plugged cats good suggestion. Exhaust leaks can also cause the efi system to screw up. Atlantic British has a tech tip about loose connections under the seat causing similar problems. Their site is down so I couldn't find it specifically, but I would check that out. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 703 Registered: 09-2002 |
Rob, do you mean fuel pressure gauge? peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 294 Registered: 02-2003 |
no peter, i have fuel pressure gage, i just had no where to connect it to. what i was talking about was something you splice into the line that will allow me to screw my guage in. it was not the plugged cats, we replaced ignition amp last night, no difference, though we are pro's now at taking the distributor out and in under 30 minutes. replaced the fuel pressure regulator with one from our 3.5L rr parts car. it seems to made a difference which is a ray of hope. car can now drive at 15mp up hill before it knocks anmd wantrs to stall. the replacements regulator's condition is unknown so we'll order a new one and cross our fingers. didn't have time to test the pressure. rd | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) New Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2003 |
It's your dizzy. Mine had the exact same symptoms. I had my distributor rebuilt by some who knew what they were doing. Ran fine thereafter. Why replace the "Base Plate"? If you stretched the springs when fiddling around in there, that would cause the symptoms. Also, did you replace the vacuum advance unit? Mine had a leak in the diaphram and wouldn't hold a vacuum, contributing to rough running. Swap in a dizzy that you KNOW is O.K. $10 bucks thats it. Say, isn't your brother John Robison? And your the author of the family? Robison is a rare name. |
