| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 84 Registered: 09-2002 |
My problem is a 1990 RR. After driving vehicle for 10 or more minutes, can be over 2hours, the vehicle will just die. I can be going 5 miles per hour or 70 MPH and it will die, there is no relationship with acceleration or not. It will die if I am accelerating or not. It had code 48 show up when the check engine light went off, I should say it was idleing erratic at that time, but hadn't died. I changed the stepper motor,but it didn't fix the problem. I had done a complete tuneup, including plugs, wires, cap rotor, breather system, fuel filter. Larry at RCH did a diagnostic and said it was the TPS, changed it still dies, checked coil it has spark, checked igntion module it has spark, I checked MAF wires look clean. I have narrowed it down to either fuel relays or fuel pump, what do you think and did I overlook something. | ||
| ART RAMANATA (Art_rolover) New Member Username: Art_rolover Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003 |
Check fuel pump connector,make sure it's not melted inside connector,especially on the fuel pump side. The reason was the connector work itself loose and built up the heat and connector is starting to melt. If you look at the connector it's only has lock on one side not both.(lock on the left of connector if you look at it sraight on from the back of your truck )The wire that heat up is on the opposite side of the lock.(upper right) My fix was wire tie connector tightly so it wouldn't work itself loose.(If it's salvagable) | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 286 Registered: 02-2003 |
when you say it "dies" do you mean it suddenly sputters out and stalls and doesn't restart? how long do you have to wait until you can drive again? is that as random as the problem? it is sort of like my fuelpump problem except mine didn't like to start once shut off and it was very random. after i changed the pump all sorts of issues got better, like quick starting, more power and suddenly women are waving to me as i drive by. rd | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 87 Registered: 09-2002 |
NO doesnt sputter just shuts off. It is as if you turned the key off. Starting time depends on how long it has been running the longer it has been running the longer you have to wait to start. The dieing has become more frequent, it used to be every so often, now it is all the time. | ||
| Tim Culp (T77911s) New Member Username: T77911s Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2003 |
Check Inertia Switch and connection. If you used an aftermarket Rotor replace with Factory part. I had both of these cause intermitten dying problems. Also check to make sure the fuel pump is not getting clogged or 'sucking up' to the bottom of the fuel tank, I had that problem with a Volvo, I could drive it several miles, it would just die, then I could restart, drive again and it would die again.... | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 89 Registered: 09-2002 |
I used all LR parts on the tuneup, but it started these symptoms, before I changed any of that. I thought the inertia switch would keep you from going consistently not intermittently. I am going to try everything tonight. I will pull drivers seat covers and check inertia switch out. It has an old recall on the gas tank so that will be replaced hopefully next week, I was going to check the fuel pump then. Since it is 13 years old should I change it or just leave it alone if it is fine. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 288 Registered: 02-2003 |
when it dies, you say it's liek the engine has been turned off. what about the electronics? do they all go off too? if so the inertia switch and a loose wire on the battery are top of my list. hell they are on top of my listy even if the electrics stay on. i think if it was fuel pump related the car would starve for fuel and sputter then essentially run out of gas. giving the classic symptom. this sounds electrical. rd | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 90 Registered: 09-2002 |
I also think it is electrical. All electronics still work. The dash lights up like when you turn the key to start it. It will turn over just won't fire until it cools down a bit. I will check inertia first then go from there. I figured if it was fuel pump it just wouldn't work. thanks. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 73 Registered: 11-2002 |
"Won't fire until cools done a bit" is typical of a bad ignition amplifier, which are sensitive to heat. There is a relocation kit to move it to the fender area. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 293 Registered: 02-2003 |
GO WITH A NEW ONE FROM www.xkslandrover.com they have them on sale for $53 i'd keep it in the same location as it lasted all those years there. and the kit is like $250 rd | ||
| steve herrod (Sherrod) New Member Username: Sherrod Post Number: 31 Registered: 02-2003 |
have you checked the main relay located under the passenger side front seat? bosch part number 0332014112 | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 95 Registered: 09-2002 |
Relays are on order. I don't think it is ignition amplifier, because I have spark from coil and also from module, I took a plug wire and checked it. Please keep the advice coming though, I'm not in the woods yet. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) New Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 7 Registered: 05-2003 |
I vote for the Ignition Amp. My rig is the same year as yours. That is one of the few electronic parts that has troubled me. If the dielectric grease, that is supposed to be smeared on the back of the amplifier is gone/dried out, the heat sink capability will be reduced and effect the module. After all, it is 13 years old. Or get to a Rover shop with the proper diagnostic equipment. Not Joe McGee's Cafe' and Auto Parts. | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 109 Registered: 09-2002 |
I am getting intermittent power to my injectors is what I found. That can only mean two things relays or ecu. Changed relays still have problem. Checked a UK website, they said that common problem with 1990 RR is for the ecu to shut off fuel to banks one and two. I will get a used one ordered tomorrow. Hope this works. Fixed my erratic idle by the way the vacuum retainer retainer on the side of the distributor was bad. Damn thing idles sweet just still dies. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) New Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 8 Registered: 05-2003 |
What U.K. website says that? Hmmmm...this is a new one. Still don't think ists the amp. module, eh? Sorry, not clear what a vacuum retainer retainer is. You mean the vacuum advance...the one with the small vacuum hose? | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 112 Registered: 09-2002 |
Yup the vacuum retainer. I was tired last night. Nope definitely not amp module. Swapped out distributors last night in order to fix a few things. It had some worn out parts and such in the process I found that the retainer was bad. So different module all together, same problem. Besides Amp module would not cut power to the injectors. ECU will be here tuesday so will find out then. sure better be this. | ||
| Mark Tappin (Hiprint) New Member Username: Hiprint Post Number: 38 Registered: 05-2003 |
try changing the termostat - I know it sounds stupid but fixed mine. | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 230 Registered: 09-2002 |
ECU fixed it. It was a glitch on the 1990 RR, it would for no reason cut fuel to banks one and two | ||
| Mark Tappin (Hiprint) Member Username: Hiprint Post Number: 44 Registered: 05-2003 |
Curious did LR eat this ? Or am I simply loosing my mind? | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 233 Registered: 09-2002 |
NOPE came out of my pocket. found a website in England that referenced the problem. Rover couldn't figure it out. |
