| Author | Message | ||
     Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) New Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 4 Registered: 05-2003 |
Annoying problem with D1, I have two doors that do not unlock properly when I use my remote key. It seems like the actuator is not pushing the level high enough causing the door to remain locked. Anyone had this problem before, I am thinking about switching the actuator, but does anyone have a simpler cure for this problem. | ||
| Ozzie Silvera (Ozzie) Member Username: Ozzie Post Number: 72 Registered: 11-2002 |
Tony, Open the door panel up, or remove it, and look at the screws that hold the actuator in place. They may have become loose, look for signs of it sliding out of it's original place. a small adjustment may cure this problem. I had a similar experience with the rear lift gate on my RRC. Good Luck, Ozzie | ||
| Carter Simcoe (Carter) Senior Member Username: Carter Post Number: 2380 Registered: 04-2002 |
happened to me twice as well, do as Ozzie suggests. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) New Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 8 Registered: 05-2003 |
Removed the door pannel and found out that the actuator is not working properly, it does not pull far enough to unlock the door, I unhooked the bracket and pushed it back a few more mm but it still did not work??? Help | ||
| Erik Brokke (Djgravity) New Member Username: Djgravity Post Number: 2 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have the exact same problem with my driver door. I too thought it was the actuator, because it seems not to push the lock up far enough. I tried adjusting the brass plate with the actuator back and forth. That did nothing. I got a reply from a nice fellow called ptscharm on pirate4x4 - he suggested the following, arm that pushes on the actual latch is made of plastic. As it wears, one must readjust the bellcrank/arm assembly the plastic plunger rides upon. It's no big deal, remove the door panel and look for the arm that reaches from the latch up to near the handle. It will be threaded on the end and have apiece you can turn to adjust. You'll spend more time taking the door inner panel off than you will adjusting. BTW-this is covered on an almost weekly basis on Dweb. If you need parts, let me know. Also, do not fawk with the actual lock cylinder (where you put the key in <easy> ). The plastic parts that actuate the locking mechansim become brittle over time and will explode upon contact. Now, for my obligatory "While you're in there" comment lubricate everything that looks like it's supposed to move with white lube. The metal parts become corroded and get stiff. When this happens, the drag on those aforementioned plastic pieces becomes greater and they break and you're fawked. A Q-tip works well as an applicator for the grease. Peace, Paul Im going to try that out right now, along with some few other quick fixes i have found on this site, ill let you know how it all goes Good Luck Tony Erik | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) New Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 19 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ok, I will try to look for it, but can't say that I really know what your describing. The arm that reaches fro mteh latch up to near the handle? Which handle the door handle inside the car or outside?? Also which end is threaded the end near the latch or near the handle??? Sorry for the comfusion but I've look at the car several times and can't make haeds or tails on how all the levers and hooks really work!!! Let me know if it works and thanks for the tip | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) New Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 34 Registered: 03-2003 |
How about the rear door? Mine will not lock with the remote, Goes down then come back up. How do you pull off the door panel? What do you adjust? | ||
| Mike Haun (Redrx7) New Member Username: Redrx7 Post Number: 39 Registered: 04-2003 |
Bill- I just took my rear door apart yesterday. You must take the basic stuff off first: - Grill for the subs (6 screws) - Plastic shell for the (4 screws) - Actual sub housing (8 screws) - The door pull-shut handle (2 socket screws. I believe 10mm size) - Then the acutal covering has many tabs that require you to slide the entire physical pannel to the right to unlatch. I was only able to undue part of the right side which gave me access to the actuator. In my problem, the door actuator didn't have enough pressure to maintain the switch's position. For example, if you lock the door, the little black actuator with rod goes downwards. Once it went down, it would 'pop' up from the momentum and stay there. In the attempt to unlock the door, it would throw it up real quick, but had nothing to keep it pushed up (bad motor). Therefore, the switch would be caught 1/2 between locked / unlock. So, I need to order a new motor, which would solve my problem. Good luck Mike |
