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Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 27
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey all... I just got my Disco, and noticed quite a few 'traits' (others call them flaws).

One of the larger ones I am attempting to tackle is the electrical problems. They go as following:

1) I noticed there is a little red electical light on the steering column. I do not think this is factory, so this worries me that some shop had some alarm or something installed. But I found no brain, spliced wires, or anything.

2) With the AC on full power (fan setting 4), occasional bumps will completly turn of the AC. If you continue to drive this way, about 45 seconds later the AC (fans and all) will come back on. With fan setting 3, it doesn't seem to happen.

3) Door locks are weird! I just purchased a remote and plan on programming it tonight for the Disco, but using the regular keys the locking system on the truck is odd. With the drivers door open, pressing down on the lock, locks all doors. Yet, when you close the drivers door all the locks unlock.

Using the key to lock the door doesn't work either, for it just will not turn that direction (lock jam or something). So, after an hour of trying to lock the dang doors, I figured if I barely close the door it will remain fine. Yet, if you close it like any other door, it unlocks it self.

4) Passenger left rear window will not roll down. All other windows work fine.

5) First power sunroof gets jammed and requires a little push to make it work.. I believe this is pure mechanical though.

6) ABS and SRS lights are staying on in the dash console.

7) When using the blinker, occasionally the trailer light in the dash console flickers on and off real quick.

Any thoughts for my preperation tonight? I am work and attempting to collect some various thoughts before I start ripping it all apart.

Thanks,

Mike
 

Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 28
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Oh, BTW it is a 1995 D1.

And a few more things:

8) I was origionally told that the truck didn't have a CDplayer. When I received it, I looked under the passenger seat and there was nothing there (as others indicate that the cdplayer should be). Yet, under the drivers seat there is a LR cd player. Yay for me, but is this the normal place, or did someone install one after the fact?

Thanks,

Mike
 

Rick D (Fatmcnasty)
New Member
Username: Fatmcnasty

Post Number: 12
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 05:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

#8 Yes on the 95 It is located under the drivers seat.
#7 Yes this is normal for the trailer light to light momentarily.
#3 Yep the door unlocks on close. As for part b on #3 I dont know.
 

Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 29
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 06:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rick-

So "#3 Yep the door unlocks on close. As for part b on #3 I dont know." the doors should UNLOCK upon closing?

This isn't a 'trait / problem' but rather factory? I guess I need to the remote.

Thanks for the input Rick.

Mike
 

Rick D (Fatmcnasty)
New Member
Username: Fatmcnasty

Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 06:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes you cant lock you keys in the the rig. It unlocks on close. Yep you need a working remote or drivers side lock.
 

Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 30
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rick-

Thanks for the clarification. I guess shutting the doors easy is a quick remedy to lock the keys in the car, for thats how I currently lock the doors. :-)

How about this:

9) Cruise control. On the steering wheel there are the + and - buttons for the cruise control. How do I actually activate this? Is it the first button under the clock closest the heater/ac controls?

If not, what is that button?

I am looking to buy a manual for the truck, and a workshop manual. Everywhere I see is the silly CDROM manuals. Is this ok since I cant find a paper back?

Thanks,

Mike
 

Rick D (Fatmcnasty)
New Member
Username: Fatmcnasty

Post Number: 15
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL yep it the one that looks like a freeway. press it first. It lights...
then press the + to set. If brakes are hit it will disengage. Get a copy of the owners manual it explains most of the rig. The paperback copy of the workshop manual can be found on ebay. I got my copy there for 80$ shipped.
I haven't seen the cd version. I hear its not as good as the printed version. I might be wrong here.
 

Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 31
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rick-

Thanks for the answer. I guess I can add:

9a) Cruise control doesn't work. I press the button, light comes on, then set the + SET. Yet, the truck continues deaccellerate to stop.

:-) More!! I need more problems!

Mike
 

Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
New Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 34
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 07:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike

I may be able to shed some light on to your traits.

#1. Little round red light in center of steering column should be for the alarm. The alarm ECU is located on the passenger footwell. I think it is green and says alarm on it.

#2. Mine will do the same from time to time. I think it is not making contact at time. I just give it a wiggle and it works. Probalbe from teh previous owner slamming the fan on to full bast.

#3. Door locks are weird at time. Lubricate them all. One time I would activate the locks with teh remote and they would pop back up and not stay down. My local shop told me to lubricate them. It worked for me. That was 1.5 years ago.

#4 Could be a bad switch, lose connection at the switch or bad window regulator. Try switching the suspect window switch with one you know works and see if that works. If not most likely window regulator motor

#5. Can't help you here.I have an 96 SD(Stripped down)There are no sun roofs to fail on mine.


#6. ABS light came mean either the sensor gap is too large or the sensor is bad. A large gap can come from a loose wheel bearing. Some times you can push them in and it is fixed. If that does not work, a shop with a autologic/testbook computer can tell you what the problem is. As for the SRS light. Some times comes on after engine repairs have been made and the battery has been disconnected. You will need to take it to ta shop or the dealer to have them read it and reset it. That is the only way to get it cleared.

#7,8 & 9 Handled aboved

#9a Very common. Most likly a cracked vacum hose. Open up the hood and look on the right side (facing the engine) Near the brake master cylinder is a hose that goes to fuel pressure regulator(Located near the throttle body) Most of the time this hose is damage. If it is ok come back here for more trouble shooting.


As for the cd rom manuals, I have not seen them . I have the work shop manual from Land Rover because the haynes manual does not cover the V8 4.0. Check out the resources section for vendors who have them. Prices vary so shop around.

Do you realy need more problems? Just wait to the oil leaks start. You will have plently, you now own a Rover. LOL

How many miles on your rig?

Good luck
Brad
96 D1 SD 74k
 

Mike Haun (Redrx7)
New Member
Username: Redrx7

Post Number: 32
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brad-

Thanks for the feedback. It is funny that some of the 'traits' I initially thought were problems are factory oriented items! :-)

I will take the truck up to the local LR dealer and see if there are any fault codes being thrown. In particular, with reference to the SRS light. I was reading somewhere that I can check my own fault codes by a module under the passenger seat?

The vehicle is a White 1995 Discovery, simular to a '96 SE7 equiped vehcile. The only thing I believe it doesn't have that the 96 and onward SE7s have is the fog lights and leather interior. But other than that, it has the rear ac, 7 seats, etc. There is 106290 miles on the clock. The engine and transmission drive & shift perfect, like new.

When looking under the hood (very briefly), I noticed that someone had recently done a few things. There were brand new spark plugs & wires, most of the engine wiring harness and various other wiring components are inside the flexible heat/wire shields; which are also colored in race yellow. :-)

A few interesting things to note under the hood:

- Bright blue spark plug wires
- Bright yellow wire wrapping
- No wheel well liners. From the engine bay, you can see the tires.
- No hood prop bar.

Anyways, thanks for the help thus far!

Mike
 

Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 42
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, May 05, 2003 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike

With a 95 you can read the ODB1 faults but I am not sure abouth ABS faults. May be someone else knows or search the archives.

I have an early production 96 SD. It was built in October of 95, is white has leather seats, no fog lights, no jump seats or any other frills. I like it that way. less thing to fix.

From what I know, the yellow flexible heat/wire shields is for the air bag system.

I good peice of oak will provide a sturdy prop for the hood.LOL
 

Joe Still (Joedisco)
Member
Username: Joedisco

Post Number: 76
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2003 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The SRS light will say "low voltage". Only LR can reset. (75$ for me) Usually associated with recent battery trouble.

I love the other items as I've been thru em all. Several are LR quirks. Rear window lift is probably dirty elec conn behind door panel. Clean and reconnect.

Do you have the backdrain from the battery as well? Disconnect the pos cable at the battery and put ampmeter between pos cable and battery post. Should be fractional voltage. If you see 1 amp or more you got alternator trouble. I struggled with this for a year.

Take out the LR CD player and sell it on Ebay for $500. Go get a Sony MP3 with wireless remote that will ply MP3 (10 hours per Disc- my opinion only)

Have fun!

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