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Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 33
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The passenger side cv joint is starting to go on my D1. Clicking sound when turning sharp left. LR is telling me $800 + just for the joint. Is the whole joint usually replaced or does the joint break down into servicable parts? Can I find a less expensive joint anywhere either new or used?
 

Daniel Covaciu (Danielcovaciu)
Member
Username: Danielcovaciu

Post Number: 141
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I guess the cv joints on our trucks is the same as those on a dodge caravan. Sad but true. This has been discussed before. Do a search.
Dan
 

Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
Senior Member
Username: Brianfriend

Post Number: 796
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 07, 2003 - 09:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike,

I think they are quoating you labor also. A cv joint should run about 350. new from dealer but you can pick up some used for much less.

Daniel.........I don't think we ever solved the cv problem with the mini van. Do you know wich thread that was?
 

Richard Dekkard (Richard_dekkard)
Member
Username: Richard_dekkard

Post Number: 57
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 04:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike,

my used ones are for sale.. I will be pulling them out this weekend. Nothing wrong with them at all.
 

Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 34
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 08:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for your responses fellas, Richard, drop me a line at m.pelechaty@brandon.ca. Just curious why you are changing them out and what you want for them.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1419
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2003 - 12:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

CV joints can be bought from the UK for around $150 each. They may be aftermarket, but Land Rover is not making them either. I have used several of the aftermarket CVs and haven't had any problems with them.

Peace,
Paul
 

Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 35
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks Paul. I live in Manitoba, Canada and I checked LR a second time for a price and they are quoting $802.00 just for the joint. This does not include labor or taxes. I think LR's brains have frozen out here in no man's land or they think us Eskimos are retarded. I almost passed out, grief-stricken when they told me. My wife is ready to divorce me after hearing that and I do not want to lose my Rover. Thanks for the info guys - do you think a cv joint is a good mother's day gift? Oh Paul, do you have a website or contact number in the UK?
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 176
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Go to:

http://www.mm-4x4.com

Lists CV joint for D1 for 85 pounds and onsite convertor says that is $190.00Can or $136.00US. Don't know about shipping from UK or whether you have to pay VAT from Canada. The big question I would have is whether that CV joint is an OEM GKN/Lobro or something less desirable? I'd verify that before ordering.

Might want to check Discountrovers too.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1434
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike:
Try LRSupermarket.com
 

Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
Member
Username: Revor

Post Number: 191
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

110 cv's
 

Brian Friend (Brianfriend)
Senior Member
Username: Brianfriend

Post Number: 821
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2003 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike,

that can't possibly be right. Are you sure they are quoating you CV joint?

BTW...if they are only clicking they may still be salvagable (sp). Take the thing out, clean it real good and pack it full of grease. I mean really full. It may just be dry.

 

Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 36
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 01:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well, I'm really confused then. I was at LR with an idle problem and they actually looked at it and packed it full of grease as it was dry on the passenger's side. I am still hearing the clicking but not to the extent as before. I was quoted $802.00 for the joint at that time and after reading your post Brian, I phoned them in case I misunderstood and they gave me the same quote - part only. I know what your saying - it sounds absolutely outrageous! The mechanic felt so sorry for me he offered to do the install on his own time if I found a part. Keith - I don't understand your post.
 

Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 37
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 04:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Keith, never mind, I got it.
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1435
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I once paid $1000 for a starter motor at a dealer.

Land Rover does not make their own CV joints, they buy them from a tier one supplier. Those bought from a supposed aftermarket mfgr may well be the same part in a green box. The factory where I work ships automotive parts in boxes labeled with a well known foreign OEM. Aftermarket or OEM, you decide.

One only need look at LR plug wires to realize that some aftermarket parts are indeed superior to OEM.

Once a CV joint begins to click, it is scrambled and will eventually grenade doing significant and expensive damage to the swivel housing and swivel ball. The damage that causes the clicking is irreversible.
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 177
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 02:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Paul-

I agree with you regarding getting better aftermarket parts for less money than dealer. For that $1000 starter from the dealer you could have bought a Mean Green and had alot of change. Obviously, factory plug wires can be improved on for less money going aftermarket too.

But I also think it's part dependent in regards to aftermarket vs. OEM part (which is the same as dealer but from aftermarket parts source). For instance, I'm unaware of any aftermarket CV manufacturers that make something superior to the OEM GKN/Lobro's. I'm not talking about going with 110 CV's, or having a "birfielded" or "longfielded" CV which is simply a modified OEM CV. I also know that GBR is working on (or maybe is currently available?) stronger CV's as well. However, what I'm talking about is a new replacement CV made by a non-OEM manufacturer that's better than OEM GKN/Lobro.

Not trying to flame or question your knowledge-I really would like to know as I'm still running my original CV's and that info may come in useful.

Thanks-
 

ed hart (Adifferentedh)
Member
Username: Adifferentedh

Post Number: 69
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 10:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

try partsmaster in the uk . www.partsmaster.com ?they will probably let you know if genuine or not and the actual vendor .you shouldn't have to pay vat that's only for the EU ,I believe . I always have had good luck dealing w/ them ,the people who are in charge used to run mansfield motors btw
Ed
 

Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
Member
Username: Revor

Post Number: 192
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have to think that OEM quality is "probably" better than after market in this case... But I've done a lot of looking into the the fronts of our Discos and D90's to try and prevent annoying things like CV failure from happening.... I have found through physical testing, (alot)that the quality difference can vary from one lot of GKN's, or after market, to the next and a set of All MAKES might actually have better metalurgy than the GKN's from lot to lot...The quality control on these parts seem to be sketchy at best.. The "super duty" 110 CV's I put together get a lot of "special" treatment before they get put in a truck. That happens at the heat treat shop, rockwell testing an other heat treat operations to reduce hardness... In these adventures we have found a ton of variables that could cause failure in both the expensive and "cheap" versions... I'd say the OEM wins 60% of the time... But this is a small sample.
In my mind the whole thing is a gamble. So why not gamble with less $$$$ Radius those SHARP edges on the cage with a dremel and put in the cheap ones...
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 179
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2003 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I always thought "All Makes" was a British reboxer (i.e like Repco, BapGeon, etc.) and not a manufacturer. However, I've always had good luck with their parts, gaskets, etc.

Thanks-
 

Mike Pelechaty (Tonga)
New Member
Username: Tonga

Post Number: 38
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That's all good stuff guys. I think I'll end up going the less $$ route this time. I don't wheel that often due to the busy life thing right now so the cv's aren't put to the test on too many occassions other than battling our ever changing bullshit weather here in snow heaven...thanks for all your input, I appreciate it.
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 183
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2003 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just read my post. "Birfielded"??? Should be "marfielded". My bad...

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