| Author | Message | ||
     John Steczkowski (Stecz) New Member Username: Stecz Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2003 |
'97 Disco, OBD II, distributorless ignition My land rover won't start, it cranks very fast, but it wont' "catch", stumble, nothing... I thought maybe I had bad gas... (long story) But I drained all of the gas and added clean gas with dryer, etc. No change. I haven't replaced the fuel filter (I'm going to do that tonight). the underhood fuse for the fuel pump is good, the engine fuse under the dash is good. Is there a fuel pump relay? I wanted to check that? Should I be able to hear the fuel pump when the ignition is on before I start the engine? Right now, I DON'T hear it. Is there an inertial switch? Where? If it's the fuel pump, how do I access that? Any hints on replacing it? The other thing I haven't done is take a spark plug wire off, and see if I can get it to spark. (I'll try that later tonight). Any other hints? | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1438 Registered: 02-2002 |
John: Yes, there is a fuel pump relay. Yes, you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a minute and then hear the relay drop. The inertia switch is in the engine compartment, it MIGHT be on the bulkhead, passenger side. The fuel pump is accessible through a hatch in the cargo area. Check for spark and, is there a schrader valve on the fuel rail where you can confirm the presence of fuel to the rail. | ||
| John Steczkowski (Stecz) New Member Username: Stecz Post Number: 8 Registered: 02-2003 |
checked the fuel pump relay, I can hear it clicking when I turn on the ignition. Definitely don't hear the pump, ever. I did crank the engine and then within about 30 seconds, press the schrader valve... nothing. I also pushed the inertial switch (on the firewall, passenger side) I assume since the relay is clicking that it's unlikely to be the inertial switch. Looks like I'll be ordering a fuel pump. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1439 Registered: 02-2002 |
John: Sounds like you've narrowed it down, but let's not buy a new pump just yet. So far, we only have presumptive proof. let us pull the hatch and make sure the pump is getting the juice everything else is sending its way. If there is power to the pump, you need a pump. Otherwise, you need to continue your search. Peace, Paul | ||
| John Steczkowski (Stecz) New Member Username: Stecz Post Number: 9 Registered: 02-2003 |
I opened the hatch, the pump has two plugs, one has 3 wire on it (red green black) and the other has at least 4 wires.... How do I check it? (I guess I need to get a shop manual....) | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1443 Registered: 02-2002 |
OK, It just got slightly more complicated, but think of it this way, if you don't continue with diagnosis, you may spend $$$ and not fix it, or you might spend a few more hours diagnosing (and learning about your truck), and get it right the first time. Pull the pump from the tank by unscrewing that big-ass ring, withdraw the pump, disassemble the basket (you'll have to do this if you replace the pump anyway)and trace the wires from the plugs. When you find the correct red and black wires, you can confirm or deny the presence/absence of power to the pump, indicating whether you can buy a new pump, or continue with your diagnosis. My money is on the pump, but I wouldn't spend the $ until I'd looked further. Keep the faith brother, you're almost there. BTW-this is part of the fraternity initiation-you're passing so far. | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 41 Registered: 03-2003 |
John I saw on d-web somewhere of using a subsitute pump for the LR pump. Think it was a Toyota pump. Anyway if it is the pump look for that thread, may save you some jack. | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 42 Registered: 03-2003 |
John I saw on d-web somewhere of using a subsitute pump for the LR pump. Think it was a Toyota pump. Anyway if it is the pump look for that thread, may save you some jack. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1448 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bill: I'm running a Mazda fuel pump currently. The OEM pump is an AC/Delco part. When we narrow it down to the pump, we'll worry about which pump to use! Peace, Paul | ||
| Roland Kutasi (Disco1) Member Username: Disco1 Post Number: 140 Registered: 10-2002 |
Before you do all of the above, have you done what Paul suggested and that is test if you have a spark? | ||
| John Steczkowski (Stecz) New Member Username: Stecz Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2003 |
I haven't officially tested for spark yet, but since the pump isn't running, it must be partly the problem... Anyway. I just pulled the pump. The three wire connector goes to what I assume is the low fuel light. The four wire plug is for the pump and the fuel level rheostat/float. The two wires on the non-latch side of the plug are the pump. I'm getting twelve volts at the pump connections, so it must be a bad pump. I'm going to order a pump and a filter tonight and I should be on my merry way. By the way, once I get the pump, it should only be a 10 minute job to get the pump installed and the truck running. I'm not real hip on using a non-OEM pump, so I'll probably get the land rover part. What I've heard from folks is that I should replace the whole in tank unit or I'll get to redo the job soon... | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1461 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh yeah, I replaced mine with the Mazda pump for about $75 and it's still running 50K later. The AC-Delco reference came from the factory workshop manual. Aftermarket/OEM??? Either way, glad I could help. Peace, Paul | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2003 |
Does the Mazda bolt right on? Mine is fine but, I'm sure that since I have asked mine will go out. | ||
| John Steczkowski (Stecz) New Member Username: Stecz Post Number: 11 Registered: 02-2003 |
I just replaced mine with an OEM unit (big bucks) and that was the problem. I also replaced the fuel filter while I was at it. One hint. The seal goes on the tank first and then slide the pump unit into it. It only takes a couple of minutes for the swap. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1478 Registered: 02-2002 |
First off, when you open the basket of the OEM pump, you will find the pump itself bears the familiar AC-Delco logo. Secondly, most pumps that folks fit into these vehicles need some minor work before they will work. Mainly, this requires cutting the wires and reversing them as the positive and negative terminals are polarized and the LR pumps are opposite every other pump I've seen. I'm sure LR did this to inhibit us from doing this! The only caveat I have to using the pump I used is that the pressure has fallen significantly and I now have a hard start condition. I don't know if this is due to the pump I got, or if it is a symptom of the manufacturer. I have gotten better than 40K miles out of it though. Peace, Paul | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 51 Registered: 03-2003 |
Does anyone have the AC Delco part #? This will go in like the OEM? No cutting or splicing? |
