| Author | Message | ||
     Jude Augusta (Jaugusta) New Member Username: Jaugusta Post Number: 12 Registered: 04-2003 |
What are you guys' thoughts on a new trainy. My syncros are dead on my 96 Disco w/130K. Hard to shift (what happened is slave cylinder died, had to shift hard, frigid winter and moisture destroyed fluid). Anyway, to change syncros, have to pull trainy anyway. Oh yeah - and I'm cheap. -JA | ||
| Jude Augusta (Jaugusta) New Member Username: Jaugusta Post Number: 13 Registered: 04-2003 |
ZOIKS!!! Tell me there are some used or rebuilts! I could put in a new bathroom for the cost of a new one! -JA | ||
| Neil Flanagan (Electriceel) Member Username: Electriceel Post Number: 114 Registered: 02-2002 |
The syncros on my 90 are shot. It's cheaper to double-clutch than to replace | ||
| Jude Augusta (Jaugusta) New Member Username: Jaugusta Post Number: 14 Registered: 04-2003 |
I have until the winter before that's not an option Neil. -JA | ||
| Neal Glessner (Nealg) Senior Member Username: Nealg Post Number: 670 Registered: 02-2002 |
Why not have your's rebuilt instead og buy a new one? I'm sure you could take it to any good shop and they could do it. Do you have access to a shop manual so you can give the mechanic a parts diagram? | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 355 Registered: 04-2001 |
The price of a reman from rover is 2200 list. I have seen them for 1600 or so from RDS occasionally. You could rebuild it but parts are $$$$ and no one is going to know what they are doing. Synchros alone are a grand. You end up needing the full synchros and not just balk rings as for some reason the main units wear more than the balk rings! Unless you have an isolated failure (input bearing or one synchro) it is probably going to cost as much as a reman to have it done. There is a rebuild book and it is inexpensive, the special tools are not necessary. All you need is standard pullers, a press, and a 32mm (I think, it may be 30mm) impact socket and a REALLY good set of snap ring pliars. Used is probably just as bad as yours. Pony up  Ron | ||
| Jude Augusta (Jaugusta) New Member Username: Jaugusta Post Number: 15 Registered: 04-2003 |
Thanks guys - I'm not sure its good news or bad news, but can count on it being accurate. I love that truck. Just didn't want to blow $2K. Any advice on the name of that rebuild book? I'm not sure how isolated the problem is - it just is finicky to get like in 1st or 3rd, especially with cup tray pulled out. In winter, I presume it will be almost unusable again. -JA | ||
| Joshua (Joshua) Member Username: Joshua Post Number: 220 Registered: 10-2002 |
jude drop me an email if you can had some questions..I might be in the beggining stages of yoru dillema thanks, joshua | ||
| Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) Member Username: Norm Post Number: 45 Registered: 02-2003 |
Either buy a new "K" suffix factory unit (or "L" suffix if you're running a Tdi) or buy a rebuilt Ashcroft R380 which is built to the K and L suffix specs -- supposedly a big improvement over the factory "J" suffix R380 that came on the '94 - '96 NAS trucks. I've been running a rebuilt Ashcroft unit behind my RPi 4.6 for 25,000 miles of hard driving and it seems to be holding up. AB sells the Ascroft R380s for @ $2000 so you might be able to get it cheaper elsewhere. Also, I'm using Redline MTL fluid in mine, which is supposed to be the best available. ---Norm |
