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Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 46
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Monday, May 19, 2003 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Symtoms:
right hand turns and uphill, engine gets bogged and stutters.
intermitten rough idle
low RPM(800-1800) engine sputters a little
timing

Checked already:
stepper motor
potentiometer
MAF sensor & contact
air filter & fuel filter
cap & rotor
new plugs
feul expansion tank
vacuum lines
coil

i am about to just sit down on the curb, get drunk and cry.

thanks gang...
 

Perrone Ford (Perroneford)
Member
Username: Perroneford

Post Number: 102
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, May 19, 2003 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sounds like fuel pump issue to me.

Air delivery isn't sensitive to uphill or downhill or turns, so you can rule that out.

Ignition could be sensitive to turns if you had bad wires or a loose connection on the distributor, but hopefully you would have sorted that out while checking the cap, rotor, and coil. If you haven't changed the plug wires, I'd do that anyway.

Fuel delivery is VERY sensitive to pressure, throttle position, and engine speed.

Just my $.02.

-P
 

Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member
Username: Nosivad_bor

Post Number: 344
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, May 20, 2003 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeah, i agree. anything more than idle and the car acts up. sounds like it is running out of gas a little? fuel pump are just known to go bad.

i used one from an '89 caddilac seville and it works well.

rd
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 47
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Rob,

was it the same size? did it require any fabbing, or did it fit right in? it doesnt say much about it on the RangeRovers.net site.

thanks a million

jon
 

Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member
Username: Nosivad_bor

Post Number: 360
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Wednesday, May 21, 2003 - 05:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

all i had to do was strip two wires and change the ends. they are supposed to use some proprietary harness to plug in and i used radio shack slide on type.

it's hard to explain, but i would call it a direct fit aside from the ends of the wires being different connections. if you are even considering doing this job then you are probably equiped to handle it.

as for supplies i had a veriety pack of plugs, wire stripper, solder and soldering iron and shrink wrap.

screw driver for the removing the pump.

my truck by the grace of god was not rusty around the gas tank, maybe it was replaced sometime. but it took 3 hr start to finish. possible the quickest mod i've had on the car.

i forgot to mention this includes me cutting a hole in the back for an access panel, all in 3 hours.

i cut the wire that is connected to the fuel pump that runs under the carpet then i soldered and taped it back together.

i later found out that if i would have followed this wire it would have unplugged from somewhere, i am guessing under the passenger seat near the relay.

email me if i left anything out. our post here i check throught the days

rd

 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 48
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 12:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

RD,

thanks! i found the BW P-39, think i'll give that one a try with the higher static psi. (for no reason other than i am the embodiment of murphy's law and need all the help i can get)

I'll let you know how it goes.

Jon
 

Randall Smith (Mr_smith)
New Member
Username: Mr_smith

Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, May 22, 2003 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I would try replacing the coil with the LR part, not an after market coil. Testing the ig coil on flat ground does not show the fault you may have.

I have seen this several times before. It begins as a problem with engine stalling while off-road on the side of a mountain. Later it develops into a stall on right hand turns (turning the steering wheel does not stall engine, it's the actual right hand turning of the truck). When more oil leaks/boils out of the coil, it gets worse. By this time you are crazy tying to figure it out.

Other brands of coils may look the same, but they have different enternal wiring, which can be measured with a multimeter. After market coils also tend to leak when mounted horizontally.

I have 132K on my RRC. So I bought a fuel pump to replace mine on my on terms (rather than being stranded). It will also be interesting to see if any changes occur simply by replacing the fuel pump.

Randall
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 49
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2003 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

UNREAL.

after all that, i thew my old LR coil in and... perfect. Mr. Smith, nice call.

thanks for all the help, gang.

much appriciated!

jon
 

Randall Smith (Mr_smith)
New Member
Username: Mr_smith

Post Number: 9
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, May 24, 2003 - 06:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jon

Glad you have got that one solved. Wonder what new problem will pop up to take that one's place?

Randall
 

Jon Santana (Mustache)
Member
Username: Mustache

Post Number: 50
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Sunday, May 25, 2003 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

haha

you aint kidding!
 

Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member
Username: Nosivad_bor

Post Number: 386
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2003 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

lol...

same thing happened to me once with an aftermarket rotor.

ran for thre days then nothing. desperation put the old one back in and it was cured.

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