| Author | Message | ||
     Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 179 Registered: 12-2002 |
I searched the archives about this but can't find any solid info about it. I also checked the Tech/lighting section and all seemed a little confusing to me. The diagram that Mike Dodson posted is the diagram that I need but it seems pretty foriegn to me. I need some hand holding (not that I like you all THAT well) to guide me through this process. I have a pair of Hella 500s with the wiring kit and two 30A relays. I want to wire the lights to my factory fog lamp switch (next to the CC switch). I want the lights to turn off when the low beams are selected and turn on when high beams are on, but be able to turn them off if needed when high beams are on also. Any help is appreciated! | ||
| Brian Friend (Brianfriend) Senior Member Username: Brianfriend Post Number: 912 Registered: 09-2002 |
Cory, I just hooked up some lights last night and I could not begin to tell you how I did it. I know I spliced into the high beam terminal. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 180 Registered: 12-2002 |
Did you use relays and the factory switch? | ||
| Brian Friend (Brianfriend) Senior Member Username: Brianfriend Post Number: 913 Registered: 09-2002 |
i had relays and the lights function the way factory fogs would function but it is a seperate switch. All I know is that I had a tangled wife mess and then I tried then and to my amazement they worked. I couldn't beleive it. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 181 Registered: 12-2002 |
I'll just start pluggin and splicing and see what happens then! I do have the wiring diagram from the tech section that I can't make heads or tails of so we'll see what happens! | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 212 Registered: 04-2002 |
Corey, My DII's fog lamps are programmed via the BCU to turn off then the high-beams are selected. Something about US/CA laws... If your DI is the same, then the fog lamp lines aren't going to be any use to you. I would suggest simply wiring a completely seperate circuit from the battery to a switch you install in the cabin, using the kit you have. I kind of doubt you need two 30 amp relays however. That would put the lamps at about 300 watts. If the lamps use less than 15 amps each, you can use just one. That will result in the best control, and least electrical carnage. Here's what you do: 1. Find a hole in the firewall you can use, either a grometed hole, in use, which you can squeeze two more wires into, or an unused grometed hole. In the case of the latter, remove the gromet, and punch a hole in it, just big enough for two small wires to pass through. 2. Using smallish wire (spagetti size) route two wires from the battery area to a switch you mount somewhere in the cabin. Connect the wires to the switch by the most secure means possible. (Soldering is best, then shrink-wrap.) 3. Connect one of the switch wires to your battery, with an in-line fuse (1-5 amps). This fuse protects the wire and relays in case something wears through and grounds it. 4. Figure out where you're going to mount the relays. Route the other swith wire to this location, and splice it into two wires, one for each relay. (Or, if one relay will carry enough current, use just one.) For splicing, as with everything, soldering and shrink-wrap is best. 5. Automotive relays have four or five posts. You are concerned about four of them: The two to the relay coil, and the switched posts. Sometimes there are three switched posts, you do not need to use the 'off' position post. 6. For each relay, connect one of the coil posts to ground. (Either the negative battery terminal, or a grounding stip somewhere. Look for lots of black wires going to a single bolt.) 7. Connect the other relay coil post to the wire comming in from the switch in the cabin. When you turn on the switch, electricity will flow through the relay magnetic coils, closing the circuit to your lights. 8. Connect the input post of each relay to the positive battery terminal, via a fuse. If you're using two lights, each of which pull say 10 amps, use a fuse of at least 20 amps, but less than the amp capacity of the wire you're using. 9. Connect the output post from each relay to the positive wire of a light. Or, if using just one relay, splice the posititive wires from your lights into one wire, and then onto the output post of the relay. 10. Connect the negative wires from your lights to either a substantial grounding strip, or the negative terminal of your battery. If you're using a wiring kit, they probably gave you most of what you need. Use the fuses they provided. They may not have provided a fuse for the run to the switch and back, but it would be a very good idea to get this. Any radio shack would have one. Hope that helps. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 182 Registered: 12-2002 |
Thanks for the info Erik... I'm tackling this project today. I'll let you know how it goes and will post a detailed diagram (one I can understand  ) in the tech section. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 188 Registered: 12-2002 |
OK I got the lights hooked up last night but still can't figure out how to use the factory switch with the things. They didn't work at first so I just hooked up the relay to the high beams so when the highs are on the Hellas are on. When I turn on the low beams they turn off. That was basically Hellas instructions for installing them without a switch. However I want to use the factory switch next to the CC switch but can't figure out how to incorporate it into the scheme of things. Here's the current setup of my factory switch: Pin 1: to main fuse block under steering column to fuse #6 - cigar lighter. I assume this is for 12V ignition power. Pin 2: to CC switch pin #2 wire (red) for dash illumination. Pin 3: not used Pin 4: to relay??? This is where the confusion starts and I need help with. Pin 5: to CC switch pin #5 wire (black) for ground. The lights are now setup using a relay supplied with the Hella lights (500's by the way) and can be purchased at any Radio Shack for $5. I picked up another relay thinking I needed two for this install as I am using the wiring diagram in the Tech/Lighting section from Mike Dodson. The relays have 4 posts labled 30, 85, 86, and 87. I hooked up the constant 12V from the fuse block near the battery and wired into 30. High beam splice went to 86, Aux lights wired to 87 and ground to 85. With this setup the lights operate with the high beams. Now in the diagram I am using there are two relays. How do I connect the second relay and use the factory switch. Any electricians out there? Any help is appreciated. Thx. | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 214 Registered: 04-2002 |
Is the switch you're trying to use momentary, (only on when your finger is on it) or does it stay in the 'on' position until you hit it again? | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 194 Registered: 12-2002 |
It stays in the ON position when pushed and OFF when pushed again. This is a 96 D1. I think only 99 and above are momentary. | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1540 Registered: 02-2002 |
Damn Corey, Sorry to let you down in the Tech Section. I drew my schematic out at the simplist (sp) detail possible. For Pin 1, power to switch; I tapped into the parking light for that. Meaning, the Parking light must be on before the switch can work. For Pin 4; this connection needs to go back to the relay. Think of you relay as another switch. Thus you push your LR switch to ON, the relay is then switched ON sending power to your lights. I used the Hella Harnesses, therefore the relays were pre-wired Paul '00 Pig | ||
| Toddrover (Toddrover) New Member Username: Toddrover Post Number: 21 Registered: 04-2003 |
On a related note... I noticed Atlantic British lists a "Switch Auxillary Lights" (AMR3751) $14.95, as well as "Switch Fog Light Front" (AMR4138) $10.95. Both are for D1. Does this "auxiliary light switch" fill the blank spot next to the Fog Lamp Switch ? Was this for factory auxiliary lights, if so does the graphic on the switch look different? I was interested in hooking up Hella 500s to this, but more directly than the way Corey wants them to run. | ||
| Kirk Thibault (Kirkt) Member Username: Kirkt Post Number: 83 Registered: 11-2002 |
Corey - Think of it this way - the switch on your dash does not provide power directly to your lights. The switch on the dash controls the relay. The relay (an electrical switch) is what switches power from the battery to the lights. The relay in this case is normally open (N.O.) which means, by default, no power is getting from the battery to your lights through the relay. When the relay is closed, juice can flow from the battery to the lights. Because the power required by your lights has a potentially high current associated with it, it is not advisable to run this kind of switching job directly from the battery, through a typical ON-OFF switch (like the dash switch) to the lights. Ths dash switch controls the power to open or close the relay. If you want the dash switch to close the relay (turn the lights ON) only under certain conditions (like when your main beams (high beams) are on) then grab power from the high beam circuit (i.e., the actual wire that feeds +12V to the main beam bulb) as your input into PIN 1 on your factory switch. The power from PIN 1 is what goes to PIN 4 (out to the relay) when most factory dash switches are closed (turned ON). When the main beam bulb is burning, it is receiving +12V from the battery and then, and only then, will pwer be available to your dash switch to feed to the relay. In the previous example, when the main (high) beams are on and you have tapped that power to PIN1 of your dash switch, closing the dash switch wil feed that power to PIN4 (out to the relay). This power will energize the relay and close it, letting current flow from the battery to the lights. Most importantly in all of this is to establish a reliable ground for all points requiring one (illuminated dash switch, relay and lights). Ideally, the ground should be battery ground - there are several ground posts throughout the engine compartment that you can use. See www.rallylights.com for a primer on lighting wiring if the Tech section isn't doing it for you. In the D2, a lot of the lighting switching is handled by the computer and not external relays so tapping into existing harnesses etc. will only get you frustrated (if you are a D2 owner - I don't know about the D1) as these harnesses are talking to the computer in small pulses of DC and not +12V. The most straightforward way is to keep everything external to the existing wiring harnesses. Also remember to use the correct gauge wire for the job so as to avoid meltdown, With respect to an OVERRIDE off capability (i.e., turning the lights off even when the high beams are on) you can always turn the lights off at any time with the factory dash switch. Good luck, and I apologize if this is redundant or way too simplified - I hope I didn't insult your intelligence! kirk | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Senior Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1541 Registered: 02-2002 |
Kirk, You are the man. | ||
| Greg Bright (Gregd2) Member Username: Gregd2 Post Number: 67 Registered: 06-2002 |
Erik, On a D2, there is an option in the testbook software that the dealer has that can change the settings so that your fogs don't turn off when the high beams are on. You can wire any 55w lights with the factory wiring and switches. It works great. I've used it this way for years now. | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Member Username: Erik Post Number: 216 Registered: 04-2002 |
I knew it was a software switch, but I didn't know they'd flip that switch for you. Thanks Greg. |
