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Jason McCombs (Jasonmc)
New Member
Username: Jasonmc

Post Number: 20
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2003 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey guys what oil do you use in your disco? 10w40? synthetic? mobil 1? give me your specs. i'm gonna change mine tomorow and i wanna know waht i should buy.

Also while you're on the subject i bought an oil filter today, i asked the guy for a WIX, which i saw recomended on here, but the box says CarQuest on the box. on the back there's a little thing that says CARQUEST Corporation, Raleigh NC. made by WIX. the dimensions are 4" tall by 3 5/8" in diameter. is this one good to use? or should i just order a genuine LR product? can i reuse the crush ring? and can i reuse the washer on the drain plug? also what kind of airfilter should I buy?
 

Jason McCombs (Jasonmc)
New Member
Username: Jasonmc

Post Number: 22
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

no one wants to tell me their oil choices? is it a secret? LOL
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Senior Member
Username: Rubisco98

Post Number: 901
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 10:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jason, many of us use many many different types of oil here. I use Valvoline Max Life 10/40 in my '96 Disco with 155k on it. I use Mobil One 10/30 in my '99 D2 with 70k. I always replace the crush ring on the drain plug, as if I don't I've always got a little drip going on. I've always used genuine filters from LR but I actually purchased a Ford Motorcraft (FL-300 if I recall correctly) the other day since it was so cheap and that was the only filter Wal-Mart had to fit at the time. I change my oil every 3000 miles on my D1, every 5000 on the D2.
 

Jason McCombs (Jasonmc)
New Member
Username: Jasonmc

Post Number: 23
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

where do you buy the new crush rings?
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 59
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dealer. Get to know the parts manager. Mine gave me about 20 of them. As far as filters, Wix makes many filters that are marketed under other names including NAPA gold, and Pro-Comp. I use the Wix 51515.
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
New Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 25
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

J. E. Robison, who owns a garage in Mass. (?) posts on this board and on the R.N. board. He is a firm believer in synthetics all around. He has seen people who have lost oil pressure using both dino oil and synthetic. The engines with synthetic have been undamaged, with dino, usually a rebuild is in the future.
Folks using synthetic say the guts still look new after 100k plus.

Amsoil, if you can get it. Balwin filters are very good, Ford are good, Pur 1 - stay away from the basic Fram. I think they do make one decent filter now though. Check the archives, lots of discussion on oil.
Hey, in a few years, you'll get a Ford filter as stock anyway.
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 60
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Here is a lot of interesting (overwhelming) oil filter info. Hope the links work.

www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
 

Chris Whybrew (Dcwhybrew)
New Member
Username: Dcwhybrew

Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I usually order a LR genuine filter from Atlanti British, if I forget to order it I'll use a Mobil 1 filter. I use Mobil 1 Supersyn 15W50 in the summer and Castrol Synthetic 10W40 in the winter.
 

Matt (Doc175)
Member
Username: Doc175

Post Number: 133
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What about a K&N compared to the Amsoil filter? Are either (or both) really worth the extra money?
 

Roger Fastring (Fastring)
New Member
Username: Fastring

Post Number: 24
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

10w30 Castrol GTX every 3k. (95 w/120k) Use GTX in everything (97F250 w/167k; 87 Samurai w/105k and 96 BMW Z3 w/100k) in proper weights with no problems. If you change every 3k, I havent seen the advantage of synethetic, but everyones got an opinion. Only strong point I'd argue against is those with 'expensive' oil justifying longer distances. No point running Mobil 1 for 7-10k miles with blowback and shavings in it instead of cheapo oil every 3k...Just my 1/50th of a euro
 

Greg Hirst (Gregh)
Member
Username: Gregh

Post Number: 218
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2003 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've used Mobil 1 15W50 since I bought my RRC in Sept.'92-no probs even though previous owner used non-synthetic.

I prefer to use Mahle or Mann oil filters. K&N or Mobil 1 filters are supposed to be good too. I think I happen to have a Bosch #72102 on there now (equiv. to a filter for Ford Windsor V8 type engine).
 

David Trammell (Discoconvert)
New Member
Username: Discoconvert

Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Monday, June 09, 2003 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Why don't you be the first to try that new synthetic Shell oil they use in the new Ferrari Enzo. It's only 60 bucks a quart. It was in an article in a Car and Driver or Road and Track. By the way an Enzo holds over 12 quarts, thats over $700 for an oil change. Brake pads $6000 and rotors $24,000, and you thought Land Rover parts are expensive.
 

Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
Member
Username: Sillybus

Post Number: 217
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 09:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yeah, I don't see an Enzo oil change anywhere in my economic future. Dang.
 

Tony Zuniga (Tony23007)
Member
Username: Tony23007

Post Number: 69
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just put Mobil1 synthetic oil on my 95 Disco, I car really tell the difference in the engine. It runs smoother and the start is less rough.
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Member
Username: Erik

Post Number: 227
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I use Mobile 1 10/30, with Genuine filters, and change it every 3k miles. Noticeably smoother engine. I also recently tried the Mobile 1 15/50, but I think my truck likes the 10/30 better. (Just a feeling...)

 

Alyssa Brown (Alyssa)
Member
Username: Alyssa

Post Number: 146
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

On a humorous note, as I was scanning the list of titles, I thought this said, "Which oil do you LOSE?"
 

Matthew Gibson (Mattgibson)
New Member
Username: Mattgibson

Post Number: 20
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I always try to stay with oils with the least amount of elastopolymers as possible. I have always belived that oils with too many polymers, like 15w-50 or 10w-40 can coat your system with sludge.

I use oils with the least amount of spread as possible. I alternate my oil changes- first one with SAE30 or SAE40 Quaker State (dependent of temerature) which is increasingly hard grades of oil to find, followed up with two changes of 10w-30 Motorcraft oil. Using OEM LR or Cooper filters.

Only oil problem I had was all the leaking cooler lines. Every single Disco has leaky oil, transmission and power steering lines! I'm taking them all off tommorow and having custom braded ones made at a local shop. More than one way to skin a Rover!

175,000+ miles, 1996 Disco w/ no major engine work yet. (not to jinx myself!)

Whatever you use, just do it every 3000 miles if possible. That is the key to long life out of vehicles. My family never had a vehicle that we ever got less than 300,000 miles out of. Three LTD's and one Grand Marquis in my short life.

Worthless info, but my 2 cents worth.
 

Chris Whybrew (Dcwhybrew)
New Member
Username: Dcwhybrew

Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 11:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

HA! Erik...describe that feeling between the 10w30 and 15w50.

For crying out loud Matthew, talk about your indepth oil analysis...I'm impressed, or maybe just overwhelmed by the BS...HA!
 

Matthew Gibson (Mattgibson)
New Member
Username: Mattgibson

Post Number: 22
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There is also a belief that a person may shorten the life of his oil pump by installing "too good" or "too bad" a filter. Really good filters cause your pump to work harder, and if it is old, may cause it to fail. A really cheapo filter may cause the pump not to have enough resistance and also to fail.

Just use whatever you've been using and not change.

Just some more superfluous malarkey.

This comes from a chemical engineer friend of mine that managed a "clean coal" technology power plan in Florida.

We're still running the old 1972 Snapper mower too!
It gets the oil changed every two weeks, whether needed or not. Probabbly one of the few things I listened to my Dad on- equipment care.
 

Matthew Gibson (Mattgibson)
New Member
Username: Mattgibson

Post Number: 23
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just blew up my Troy bilt though- got mad with a family problem and forgot to replace oil during a change.:-(

Don't work on equipment when angry!
 

James (Jimmyg)
Senior Member
Username: Jimmyg

Post Number: 317
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Is it bad to switch from reg oil (10w30) to a synthetic? DO you use the same weight or something else.

95 D1 181,000 miles
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Member
Username: Erik

Post Number: 228
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I dunno Chris, with 10w-30 my engine starts and runs with no extra work or sounds. With 15w-50 it started with just a hair more effort, like I had another A/C compressor's worth of power draw.

I tried the 15w-50 in anticipation of the normally very hot southern California summer, but that has yet to present itself, so the 15w-50 will come out, and the 10w-30 will go back in, at least until the murcury rises, and I feel the need to wander the Mojave again.
 

Chris Whybrew (Dcwhybrew)
New Member
Username: Dcwhybrew

Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well Erik that makes sense. I can see how running the thicker oil in cooler weather affects the engine performance. Hey I know all about the Mojave heat considering I live smack dab in the middle of it. We're averaging around 115 degrees now.

James, I have always just used the same weight (10w40)until I switched to 15W50 last oil change. The only reason I switched to 15w50 is because I read about others using it on here and I sent an email to John Robison (www.robisonservice.com) to ask his opinion. When he said that was just fine, I went with it. Also note again it's hot as hell...well maybe where I live is hell...but anyway, it's hot here and I have some slight seepage from my rear main seal that I was hoping (perhaps naively) that the thicker weight would stop.

Chris
 

Tony Zuniga (Tony23007)
Member
Username: Tony23007

Post Number: 74
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

James I just switched from regular 10w30 to Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30. Seriously I do notice the difference. My starts are not a bit less rought and the engnine runs a lot smoother.

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