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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through June 15, 2003 » Cannot remove fuel filter because of rust. « Previous Next »

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Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis)
Member
Username: Dvrontisis

Post Number: 140
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

my fuel filter is causing my truck to run poorly (or so i believe). i cant remove it myself, my mechanic cant remove it. it seems as though the mechanism holding it is too rusted and corroded that it cant be removed. what are my options here?
 

Corey (Discobro)
Member
Username: Discobro

Post Number: 216
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

"Mechanism"? There's just two nut-type fittings on each end. Is that what you can't remove? Sounds like an original factory filter. LOL...
 

Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis)
Member
Username: Dvrontisis

Post Number: 142
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yep basically... the filter hasnt been changed in all 85,000 miles on the truck. it runs poorly... maybe i should *gasp TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER... they might know more than my mechanic as this is probably his first land rover ever
 

Corey (Discobro)
Member
Username: Discobro

Post Number: 217
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Usually the case. Mechanics seem to freak out when you tell them you have a LR. Could you just spray the fittings with W40 and let it sit for a while and then try again? I just used two wrenches and came off pretty easily. You might want to try taking the rear tire off to get a better angle on it.
 

Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis)
Member
Username: Dvrontisis

Post Number: 143
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i soaked it with WD40.. took the rear wheel off... cant do it... my mechanic soaked them with "special" stuff... dealer is my last resort
 

Reed Cotton (Reedcotton)
Member
Username: Reedcotton

Post Number: 149
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

WD-40 won't get it. Try a real penetrating oil like Kroil, or Gibbs, or even Liquid Wrench. Let it soak for at least a day. Re-apply the penetrating oil often durning the soaking period. That's the best advice I can give.

Now for some really BAD advice. Try heating the fittings. If you don't feel comfortable with igniting your Disco,or if the fittings are seeping, don't try it! Actually I was thinking about a more indirect way than applying the old torch to it. Heat an iron bar with the torch, then lay the heated bar on the fitting for several minutes. Remove the bar and try wrenching.

-Reed
 

Bill K (Bill_k)
Member
Username: Bill_k

Post Number: 164
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 07:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The same happened to me. I took it to the dealer where they had a special kit for that problem. Basically, the mech. cut of the rusted fitting with a dremel too, then he put the new hose on the metal fuel line, and used a hose clamp to keep it there. It cost me about $115 for the new hose piece and filter.
 

Toddrover (Toddrover)
New Member
Username: Toddrover

Post Number: 40
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mine was sectioned with a Dremel and then each 1/2 taken off independently. Probably 95K on mine.
Chicago/Western New York winters/rust
 

Leo (Leo_hallak)
Member
Username: Leo_hallak

Post Number: 91
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I agree with Reed about using a real penetrating oil. Kroil is great I use it a lot or I use the Zep version called Twister, it can really save you a lot of work.

-leo

 

Joey (Joey4420)
New Member
Username: Joey4420

Post Number: 39
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Would it be possible to just cut it out and install new lines and just about any aftermarket fuel filter?
 

Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member
Username: Nosivad_bor

Post Number: 489
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeah..

that's what a range rover owner would do.. hehe

rd
 

Joshua (Joshua)
Senior Member
Username: Joshua

Post Number: 271
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

pb blaster

best shit ever
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1644
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 09:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Deutsch FF506 filter has hose barbs at both ends...

Rumor has it that Rover has a retrofit kit that does the same thing as two pieces of rubber tubing and a coupla hose clamps.
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 425
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 10:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I think it would be good to point out the obvious with regards to heating the fuel filter or lines... Don't do it.
 

Reed Cotton (Reedcotton)
Member
Username: Reedcotton

Post Number: 150
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian-

I can't agree more.

-Reed

- Using a flange wrench will help keep the existing fuel line fittings from rounding off. On the filter side use vise-grips
 

Joshua (Joshua)
Senior Member
Username: Joshua

Post Number: 273
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 10:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL brian..allways thinking...

LOL

i can just picture it...

"well, I was just trying to break loose these bolts and..."
LOL
 

Joe Still (Joedisco)
Member
Username: Joedisco

Post Number: 87
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2003 - 07:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Pulled my orig at 110,000 and it was a pain. I found that a normal open end or flare nut wrench had a little bit of play in it that made the job tough. I took an old SAE open end and opened it up on a bench grinder til it was really snug. Then it came off pretty well.

As far as heat try a heat gun- no open flame.
 

Brian Goodner (Bluewater)
Member
Username: Bluewater

Post Number: 70
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2003 - 07:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i thought the fuel filter and all the fittings were supposed to be stainless.
 

Greg French (Gregfrench)
Senior Member
Username: Gregfrench

Post Number: 422
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2003 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I used a hacksaw to get mine off. Went to lowe's and bought some hose and clamps. Runs like a champ ever since.

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