| Author | Message | ||
     Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) New Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 30 Registered: 06-2002 |
My wife drives a 94 disco. It normally runs just fine. However after she stops for a brief period (usually 10 mins or so) and gets back in the car it stalls as she pulls out of the parking bay. It is fine when the engine is cold and it is fine on cool days. The problem only happens on Hot days after a short stop somewhere. She has to gun the revs to get it going properly and then it is fine again. Anyone got suggestions on where to start looking. The check engine light does not come on. I think it may be a fuel problems. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 83 Registered: 05-2003 |
I don't know the exact answer, but I did have similar problems that ended up being the solenoid. My Disco did the exact same thing until one day it finally died and would not start at all, I was experiencing short hesitations while driving as well as complete stalls. Check the leads to the solenoid, clean them up and make sure they make contact, I found a Solenoid at AutoZone for a buick ( I took my old solenoid and asked them to match it, it was $15 bucks) you can replace it for a short time period and see if that fixes it if it does take the loaner back to AutoZone get your refund and purchase the more expensive/better Bosh solenoid. | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 110 Registered: 03-2003 |
What does the solenoid have to do with this. The starter turns over fine, right? Sounds like fuel (sensor) problems. | ||
| Louis Juarez (Louis_juarez) New Member Username: Louis_juarez Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2003 |
I have a '94 Disco I with 110 K miles, I bought it at 90 K miles...when what seemed to be a fuel/ingnition problem arouse, a code 17 came up on the comp.led, and I replaced the throttle potentiometer. What a difference...she go now!! I had changed the fuel filter, done a tune up with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor...ran STP fuel injector cleaner on a tank of gas, ran a few more tankfulls and then ran a tankful of gas with Marvel mystery oil( a top oil),.. Then I changed the throttle pot. I love it....until the next challenge. I'm new to this page , but not to Land Rovers and Triumph Motorcycles. By the way...I bought the part from Atlan. Brit. for $160, 5 day shipping over a holiday weekend. The dealer in Honolulu wanted $220 with a two week wait if they could get the order in on time??? Party On Dudes and Wahines... | ||
| Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) New Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 31 Registered: 06-2002 |
I've just replaced the fuel filter (as it was the easy place to start) and threw in some BG44k. I'll see how that helps this week. I've a feeling it might be the fuel pressure but don't know how to check it. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1663 Registered: 02-2002 |
Doug: I don't think the '94s had the valve on the fuel rail. As a result, checking the fuel pressure will require you to fabricate a tee with a fuel pressure gauge and the easiest place to insert it in the circuit is back by the filter. Without the LR tool, it isn't that easy as the filters don't use a commonly available fitting. Paul | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 213 Registered: 02-2002 |
Doug & Paul, the '94 does have a Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Just go to any autoparts store & buy a fuel pressure guage that has accepts Schraeder valve. FYI: fuel pressure is supposed to be 34-37psi at ignition on, engine off. That being said, you might want to do a search on hot restarts. If I remember correctly, if the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad, the engine will run rich on a hot restart. | ||
| Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) New Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 35 Registered: 06-2002 |
Thanks for the info on the fuel pressure. The wife just got home said that she was having problems again. This time it seemed a little worse than before. Thus the fuel filter and BG44K did not help. The crazy thing is that there is no check engine light therefore no diag codes. Should I keep looking at fuel, throttle pot (as mentioned above) or could it be a vac hose leak, or something else? | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) New Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 33 Registered: 05-2003 |
What code is on your computer L.E.D.? | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 101 Registered: 05-2003 |
Douglas, before you spend too much money in just trying to replace parts because you think they are the ones that might be giving you the problem, call your nearest dealership and ask them how much it would take for them to diagnose your problem. I know that spending 50-70 bucks on a test might seem high but you'll find out quick enought that replacing parts that end up being not the problem can also add up to high $$$. Have the dealer tell you exactly what is wrong and change it yourself, you might end up spending more if you go around chasing everything that could possibly be wrong. Believe me I know from experience. | ||
| Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 42 Registered: 06-2002 |
As some of you know I've been having some 'hard starting' issues on hot days with my 94 disco. Anyway I hooked up a pressure guage to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and I am reading about 29psi. I compared this to my 95 disco which has had a fuel pump replacement a year or so ago and that was reading 32 psi and I have no issues with this vehicle. The recommended range is between 34 and 37 psi per the manuals. Now taking into account the analogue dial (which may have a certain tollerance of its own) is 29 PSI at the point where I should replace the fuel pump? That is about 2.0 Bars compared with the recommended 2.4 - 2.6 bars. PS I live in Colorado about 1 mile above sea level would that offset my readings? | ||
| Marlin Begay (M_begay8) New Member Username: M_begay8 Post Number: 32 Registered: 03-2003 |
I also have a 95 discovery that won't start when it gets hot. Has a new fuel and engine coolant temp sensors, I have good fuel pressure when cold and hot it just won't start when its gets hot. | ||
| Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 46 Registered: 06-2002 |
Here is the latest from the tests I ran last night. On my 94 disco which has a problem the pressure is about 30 PSI with the ignition on. When I start the engine the pressure jumps to 36 PSI. This was with a hot engine. I then compared this to my 95 disco (which runs great) and it was 32 PSI constant with the ignition and again when I started it. Any thoughts from anyone | ||
| Louis Juarez (Louisjuarez) New Member Username: Louisjuarez Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2003 |
Doug, when I started to have problems with my '94 Disco and a code 17 showed up, I didn't know what the codes were on the LED reader so I made an appointment with th LR Dealer here in Honolulu thinking $$$$. The appointment was a week away but I was having trouble now. So I decided to order a code reader from Atlantic British only to find out that they were selling an OBD II reader and my car has an OBD I. The salesperson said that I should do the basics first and give it a tune up, so I bought a basic tune up kit from them which contained new wires, roter, distibutor cap, oil filter, and sparkplugs for $100. Not a bad price I figure. In the meantime I opened every connecter under the hood that I could see that was connected to sensors, fuel injectors, MAF, ETC. and cleaned them with ontact cleaner and my car started running better just doing that. I also got on to the ATlantic British web page Tech section and saw that they suggested running the main coil wire away from the powersteering resevoir because of leak problems, (my resevoir hoses leak big time), and checking or changing the small wire connectors that go to the coil...Mine were kinda corroded and needed attention. Now the cars running better when the basic tune-up kit shows up, so install the parts and the car is purring now. I also disconnected the neg.cable from the battery for about 30 min. to reset the LED code reader under the front seat. The cars running good for about two weeks when it starts stalling again and the code 17 comes up again but this time I know what to look for because of this website. I looked in my Haynes manual to see where the throttle pot. was located and discovered that I had missed it when I cleaned all the other sensor connectors, so I cleaned that connector and the car ran great for about a month till the code 17 came up again and I changed the throttle pot. During all of this I realized that you have to do the basics first. Good Luck on your problem, I hope that my experience can help some. Aloha, Lou | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 165 Registered: 02-2003 |
I used to run off road with a RRC that was a pig to start when hot, and it proved best to keep it running. Ultimately a bad coil was diagnosed, resulting in poor/no spark. My own experience is that Lucas coils tend to die after 100k miles...so far my Bosch has gone 130k and is fine. Take a look at the coil for any sign of fluid (coolant) leakage. | ||
| Douglas McMillan (Mcmillan) Member Username: Mcmillan Post Number: 51 Registered: 06-2002 |
Well I just splashed on the fuel pump. We'll see if that does the trick. | ||
| Love Jones (The_tool_man) New Member Username: The_tool_man Post Number: 9 Registered: 06-2003 |
guys you are all wrong.... the problem is the amplifier module located on the distributor shaft. if that module gets too hot, it will shut off your engine. all you have to do is get some wires and move it to a cooler location. this is a common problem in the older d1. also, goto my new thread on " fualty step housing" this will explain another issue. |
