| Author | Message | ||
     Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 164 Registered: 10-2002 |
I have a 97 D1 with 93k miles and the thing cant stop to well, with my foot hard on the pedal, and in normal drive, awd hi, i can overcome the brakes with a good stab of the gas pedal! I just installed a NEW lucal girling master cylinder and bled the brakes theroughly, using LMA castrol fluid, and they still suck, so i resurfaced the front pads, removing the glazing, and this didn't help. i did notice that the front plastic caps that are on the bleeders were melted a bit though, so i went for a swift ride, hard on the brakes, and took temp readings of the rotors, 250 up front, and 170 in rear, all pistons checked for movement, and all ok! the front pads are not genuine, could this be my prob?, oh yes, booster and vacuum line also ok. someone please give me some ideas!!!!!!! Peter. | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 838 Registered: 02-2002 |
pad compound? also after new brakes pads are put on you need to bed the pads to the rotors. this procedure will vary but in general easy braking for about 50 to 100 miles. then resume normal use. this allows the proper break (cook) in. now as far as compound, i have no clue as to what OEM Land Rover pads are made of so i can't advise, but if you want better braking and have the cash, go to a cross drilled rotor, kevlar impregenated pads from EBC (or something similar) and Stainless Steel brake lines. i also recommend depending on how hard you are on your brakes i recommend that you replace flush and replace your fluid annually. i can't say that this will heal your woes but its the best i know. mike w mike w | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 91 Registered: 05-2003 |
It might be your pads after all, I know I installed a pair of cheap AutoZone pads that lasted me only four months, and the car did not break worth a lick. I replaced them with a high end pair at NAPA I don't recall what type they were but they have lasted me a while now with no problems. | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 165 Registered: 10-2002 |
The pads that are on the front now have been there for about 8-10k miles and are semi mettalic, i don't know the brand, i think the oem pads are full organic, non met. i dont know, i will check for bulging lines at first light, and re bleed, although i doubt that i will find any air, pedal feels fine, just doesn't stop well, thanks for the input so far! keep it coming, i spoke to john at EE about the drilled/grooved rotors, and he felt that my prob is elsewhere, Peter. | ||
| Mike Bauer (Mikeb) Member Username: Mikeb Post Number: 44 Registered: 02-2003 |
Don't forget to check your rear brake shoes. The only thing that has worked for me so far is the original shoes (organic). This is especially true in the back where the shoes and pads are much smaller. Thanks, Mike B. | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 99 Registered: 05-2003 |
One more thing Pete, you might have already done this and this might not apply but I just though of cleaning the rotors with plenty of water, make sure you did not get any brake fluid on the rotors at all or this will definitely cause you to have problems braking! just a thought |
