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John Booth (Jboothmtnbkr)
New Member Username: Jboothmtnbkr
Post Number: 6 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Saturday, June 14, 2003 - 02:56 pm: |
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When it rains it pours. In addition to the ignition amplifier, etc. my rear window ECU appears to have gone bad (both rear windows won't operate from the console switches and blows the 30 amp fuse when the switches are pressed). $120 to replace the ECU. Any advice on trying to fix this before replacing the ECU? |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 63 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Sunday, June 15, 2003 - 01:28 am: |
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Hi Jon, I have a 95 RRC (LWB) and my ECU also needs replacement as my rear windows also stopped functioning...although my fuse(s) don't blow. John Robison's (of Robison's Repair Service in Mass.) who posts here frequently had on a number of occasions given an alternative (other than replacing the window ECU) fix to this problem. He told of a simple rewiring of the wires going to the window ECU, so that essentually the ECU is bypassed. When this is done, the windows function normally except that you can raise or lower the windows (by the usual window buttons) even with the vehicle completely off and the key removed from the ignition. The only thing that would concern me is the blowing of your fuses which may indicate a electrical short of some kind. If that was the case I would proceed with the alternative bypass wiring as described above with caution. I wish I had more info or a copy of his instructions, but hopefully someone else can pass along the exact info to you.
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John Booth (Jboothmtnbkr)
New Member Username: Jboothmtnbkr
Post Number: 9 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Sunday, June 15, 2003 - 11:57 pm: |
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Thanks Dave. I was going to try and pull each of the rear window door switches and play around with them a bit first. Both of those switches were fading in and out and I'm wondering if there might be a short happening in one of them. |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 65 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Monday, June 16, 2003 - 12:29 am: |
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Hi John, From most everyone I've talked with who are having problems with intermitant or non functioning RRC rear windows, none mentioned any fuses blowing, so your circumstances may be a bit different than everyone else. The concensious has been it's simplly a bad window ECU (in their case). You may have something else (or in additon) going on since your fuses "blow". Others that have more knowlege thank me might be able to tell you what is going on. Wish I knew more. |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 66 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 - 12:59 am: |
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Oops, sorry for all the typos above...I knew I should have checked it before pressing "Post"! |
   
Jason Urban (Geflackt)
New Member Username: Geflackt
Post Number: 22 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 - 07:27 am: |
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I had the window ECU go on mine, too. One way to tell is that there is no aux power after the car is shutoff. I pulled the ECU out and found a bad solder connection on the PCB. Resoldered the obvious bad connection, put the ECU back in, and everything has worked perfect since. Free fix! There are details somewhere on the web that even show you the exact location of the bad solder joint. Not quite sure where the site is, but a search should find it. It's apparently a somewhat common failure. Jason. '95 Classic LWB. '00 Disco. |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 67 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 - 09:58 am: |
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Hi Jason, As mentioned above, I have a 95 RRC LWB too and my Windows in the rear which worked intermitantly have just about stopped working. I had forgotten about the solder fix. May I ask.... 1. Once you remove the lower cardboard facia below the glove box (passenger side of car), where the ECU's are...going from left to right, how do you identify the window ECU? 2. I wasn't quite sure what you meant by "there is no aux. poswer after the car is shut off" when the window ECU goes bad??? Do you mean when you turn the iginition key to just the aux. power position (like to power just the radio on), no power gets to the windows? Thanks for any help, especially on identifying the window ECU! |
   
Jason Urban (Geflackt)
New Member Username: Geflackt
Post Number: 23 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 - 11:04 am: |
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My Rangie isn't here at work today, otherwise I'd take a look. If I remember correctly, the ECU is a black box tucked in behind the glovebox. I think it has 2 connectors. It's kind of tough to get out without taking a lot apart, but I managed to work it out of there with only scratched up hands and cut fingers. The black ECU should be easy to see once you pull off the glovebox - I don't think it's behind the lower cardboard facia. It might be about 4" by 6" and I think it's attached to a metal bracket. That's the best I can do on a description right now! OK - Now it's coming back. There are 2 connectors on the glovebox side. I removed the 2 connectors and you should see a black plastic cover that surrounds the ECU connectors. Since the whole assembly wasn't easy to get out, I removed the black cover(pries off the rest of the housing), and VERY carefully removed the PCB from the housing. There are probably some static sensitive parts on the PCB, so handle with as much caution as you can. When reinstalling, be very careful to get the PCB back in the correct slots in the black housing. On the Aux power thing - maybe it's more like "retained" power. You remove the key, but don't open doors. The windows should still be operational for a few minutes. My back windows were intermittent and then I noticed the retained power feature wasn't working. I guess the ECU handles this timer as well. Jason. |
   
John Booth (Jboothmtnbkr)
New Member Username: Jboothmtnbkr
Post Number: 10 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 - 08:58 pm: |
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Thanks for all the advice. The ECU in my 94 LWB is under the console and fortunately seems pretty easy to remove. I'll take it out this weekend and inspect it for any broken solder joints. |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 68 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 12:36 am: |
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Hi Jason, I really appreciate your description..this should truly help me. John mentioned that on his 94 LWb his window ECu is under the console....does he mean under the center console???? You mentioned your ECu was behind the glovebox....what year RR do you have?? Mine is a 95 RRC LWB. I thought the rear window ECu was the same on the 93's, 94's 95's..maybe I'm mistaken? I'll wait to see what year yours is. Thanks! |
   
Jason Urban (Geflackt)
New Member Username: Geflackt
Post Number: 24 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 07:33 am: |
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Hi Dave! My Rangie is also a '95 LWB. I have it with me at work today, so I'll take a look at things at lunch. Stay tuned...... |
   
Wes Munch (Wes_munch)
New Member Username: Wes_munch
Post Number: 13 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 09:18 am: |
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David, Jason is correct, on a '95 the ecu should be behind the glove box mounted on a bracket on the right side it actually says "window ecu" or some such once you take it out and pop the cover off you should be able to see the bad solder joint. If thats your problem. Hope it's an easy fix. Wes |
   
Jason Urban (Geflackt)
New Member Username: Geflackt
Post Number: 25 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 01:59 pm: |
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Now I just realized where I found the info originally!!!! On this site!!!! Go here: http://www.discoweb.org/window/index.htm Then, when you're done, go here: http://www.austin-healey-stc.org Jason. |
   
David (Dave)
Member Username: Dave
Post Number: 69 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Thursday, June 19, 2003 - 11:39 pm: |
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Hi Wes and Jason, Thats great info! Finially answers all of my questions (so far). Now all I have to do is find a nice dry day to get at the ECU and fix those darn rear windows. I've heard from others that re-soldering sometimes works and sometimes not or it may work for a short time or sometimes it cures it permanantly. The other alternative is to do the wiring bypass. I'm still trying to get the info on that one. As for the Austin-Healey site, it's great and I can tell you a quick short story. When I was 16-17 years old and first had my drivers licence (years ago) a frend of mine had to spend the summer in calif., so he asked if he could leave his newely aquired Austin-Healey at my parents house and if I would start it up each week. He was about to restore it when he got back. Anyhow, I barely knew how to drive and certainly didn't know how to drive a "stick"...boy did I learn quickly. As soon as he left, I had that car out every night in the summer, come rain or shine. It made a racket but oh what fun. Oh, did I mention to you that I didn't know how to drive a "stick"? All I recall was smoke and crunching gears all summer...thinking also that you're supposed to drive a stick with one foot pressed on the clutch as much as possible. My frined returned at the end of august, but couldn't get it to reverse out of the garage. I said sheepishly....gee, I don't know what could be wrong....I can't even drive a stick!!! We have a good laugh about it after all these years...but at least I know now what it's all about (Austin Healeys). What fun!! Thanks all and keep me posted how the ECU fix goes. |