| Author |
Message |
    
Nick B
| | Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2002 - 08:10 pm: | 
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Im going to replace my oil pan any hints or tips i should be aware of..
Thanks in advance |
Ron
| | Posted on Saturday, April 13, 2002 - 09:11 pm: |
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seal it with right stuff rather than a gasket
Ron |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 03:15 pm: |
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I dropped my pan this weekend. About the only real tip I can give you, other than what Ron said, is when re-fitting the pan, I found it easier to remove the oil level sensor before offering up the pan to the engine. It makes it much simpler to get around the oil pump pickup screen. I also chased all the threads and cleaned up all the bolts in solvent.
I also took the time to clean the pan thoroughly, and clean the face of the transmission behind the pan with a scraper, some solvent, and a rag. Really cleaned that area up and makes it easier to see if things are holding together right. Some people don't care about doing things half-assed, but I like to take my time and do the details. If I wanted it half done, I'd take it to the dealer!
Good luck and keep us updated...
-P |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 03:53 pm: |
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if the pan's out, does it make sense to replace the crankshaft bearings on a >100k truck?
if i went there, i would be very tempted to do it. But i hate to screw something up that wasn't necessary to mess with 
peter |
isaac
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 05:41 pm: |
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. . . unless you have a light rod knock . . .like mine :P
(absorbing this thread)
-isaac |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 07:01 pm: |
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i seem to have a bunch of light knocks... can't figure out yet if the one that bothers me is the lifter or the rod...
peter |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 08:50 pm: |
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Bearings are too inexpensive no to put in at this point. You can do it with removal of several large bolts, a torque wrench and $120.00+- of bearings, maybe rods and mains at that $$. It's more work gettin' the pan gasket /cleaning process, than putting in the brgs. Doin' it now protects that expensive crank.... doug -'brgs just for the sheer fun and joy of it-are summer project on mine, and all's well ! and I want to keep it that way. |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 08:56 pm: |
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How are you guys changing bearings with everyting still hooked up? This is usually one of the most demanding and precision operations in engine building. I can't imagine doing this on a dirty motor from below, with no chance to properly mic-up the crank.
-P |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 09:34 pm: |
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P:
I read several items on this procedure in various Rover/Buick V8 sites. I'm planning on doing it this summer; my 'trial run' was when I replaced my pan gasket several weeks ago. Removed one cap, to look at condition. I have 99k on it-zero galling/pitting but the soft layer was parially removed, with portions of copper backing were visible, say 40 %. They 'sacrifice' themselves-so to speak-with time, add neglect and... I'm not one too wait for something to fail or wear out on it's schedule. I like to preemptively strike rather than wait. So... back to the theory:
Apparently you undo all the main caps and let the c hang.Then using a feeler gauge as a probe, you can push the upper half around, to remove it. Lube the new half and refit. IF you want to mic it you can, with plasti-gauge to confirm the crank wear. There should be some but as mine was perfect-eyeballed- it would be better runnin' in fresh bearing material than copper backing, worn as it is now.
Will this be the same as removing the crank and recon as 'normal- no.
Will it assist in raising oil pressure-slightly. Will it get mildly worn bearings out-yes.
I kinda like the prospect of pokin' them in there as oposed to doing nothing, ya know ? |
p m
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 09:44 pm: |
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Doug,
that was my thought... the most PITA is to seal the oil pan afterwards, to replace the rod bearings is not that difficult.
Perrone,
speaking of changing the rod bearings on a dirty motor from below, I've done it in the past quite a few times. Never with good results, although the main reason was that I hoped to squeeze more life from a FUBAR crankshaft.
peter |
PerroneFord
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 10:01 pm: |
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Doug,
I hear ya man. It just goes against everything I've ever learned about crank assembly! You know, micropolished crank, surgically clean assembly area, plasti-gage check to a couple thousandths... Doing it laying on the ground with God only knows laying around on the crank surface. It's better than nothing for sure, but not what I want to be doing if I can help it.
P.M.
I didn't have any problem with the pan. Just scraped the bottom surface of the motor and cleaned it thoroughly, put some gasket maker on it and fitted up the clean pan. I threaded 2 bolts onto it hand tight and then installed the remainder of the bolts with a little blue loctite. Checked it again today and it's dry as a bone.
I've also noticed that now that I'm running 15w50, my oil pressure is looking terrific. 20 psi at idle, 30 psi at 35 mph, and 40psi+ when I'm at highway speeds.
I got under there today and changed the transfer case fluid to synthetic and adjusted the handbrake lever. Took 30 seconds to do the brake...
-P |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Monday, April 15, 2002 - 10:20 pm: |
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After I do it I'll post results. |
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