| Author | Message | ||
     Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 14 Registered: 10-2002 |
Anybody with reliable aftermarket equipment please help. My RRC temp gauge shows an increase from the normal position just below 1/2 to 3/4 when going uphill. But I don't trust it - radiator cored, thermostat out, no coolant loss, new temp sender, fixed fan coupling, no belt slippage. I'm about to fit a VDO gauge marked in degrees now, but (a) what temp is 'normal', and (b) at what temp do I start to panic? thanks Jaco | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 155 Registered: 02-2003 |
Your truck will attempt to maintain the temp at which the thermostat opens. Generally 188F. I don't really worry too much until my temps get over 220F. Running A/C brings temp up, moving slowly brings temps up, driving in low range brings temps up. Hope that helps. -P | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 15 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks, it does. Will install gauge and monitor. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 554 Registered: 02-2003 |
does that VDO brand gauge screew into the old spot where the factory temp sender went? i want a guage too but i dont need another serious project. rd | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 807 Registered: 09-2002 |
Perrone, I am tempting my fate here, but I have to say that on both my LWB and Disco thermometer stays at the same spot no matter what. My 89 rangie's a bit different - the temperature will fluctuate depending on driving conditions. But, to me, it's a sign of tired engine. 220F is way high to my taste, even on the jeeps with cast iron blocks. peter | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 808 Registered: 09-2002 |
Rob, VDO gauge will not fit in the dashboard; the sender is likely to be too big to fit in the factory spot. However, you can swing by the hardware store and get yourself a tee with barbed fittings of the right size for the upper radiator hose, and threaded middle that you can cook up to fit the VDO (or other aftermarket) temp. sender in. the RRC has a perfect spot for two 2" dia gauges - on the dashboard just right of the binnacle. peter | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 160 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter, The gauge in the later RRCs is "ranging", meaning it will read normal from about 180-215F. I've sat and watched my truck boil over with straight water 212F, with the gauge reading dead center. This is actually why I installed a diffferent gauge. 220F is certainly warm, but I don't worry when the water is there. AntiFreeze in 50/50 doesn't boil until nearly 250F and water alone is good to 212F. Considering that the atcual metal temps around the motor are closer to 270-350, I don't think you're hurting anything. Put an oil temp gauge on your motor and see what you read. -P | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 809 Registered: 09-2002 |
Perrone, I've had a total abomination of a vehicle once, a ukrainian-made POS with an air-cooled V4. It had oil temp gauge, which read between 90 and 110C (194-230F). So the oil temp is about the same as water, which it should be. The only thing that gets much hotter is the exhaust manifold. If I didn't know that the engine temperature CAN stay stable under nearly any abuse, I'd also think it was okay for it to go up in the conditions you mentioned. Now, does 220F hurt anything? Maybe not. But, one thing I got burned on is the big timing chain sprocket. Have never seen one out of the LR V8, but many engines have them made out of plastic, with imbedded steel teeth. After my three-fold experience, it is (for me) safe to assume that a GM engine will quit about a month after it was overheated. GM truck engines often have steel timing chain sprockets, so it may not apply. peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 556 Registered: 02-2003 |
yeah, peter thats what i am planning on doing 2" gauge on that flat part with easy access from the coin tray. i just am timid about splicing into these lines. rd | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 812 Registered: 09-2002 |
which lines? radiator hoses? it ain't that big of a deal. you can get overly anal with it, and have TWO senders and TWO gauges, and know how your radiator is performing. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 558 Registered: 02-2003 |
i was hoping where ever the heat sensor screwed in from the factory i could unscrew and put the VDO sensor in and just mount the guarge on the dash. i have no idea what hose to splice into thats why i am leary (timothy) | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 817 Registered: 09-2002 |
you can split the hose that sends hot coolant from the block to the radiator. better yet, you can split the heater hose - it always has coolant circulating in it, and you can use a much smaller tee. peter | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1717 Registered: 02-2002 |
I have mounted temp gauges in both the return line to the expansion tank and also to the heater hoses. I saw little to no difference in the temparatures measured using either location. On some of the Rangies, there is a huge port on the bottom front of the manifold that is open to the water jacket-if you couldn't fit a thermometer probe in this hole... the port is directly beneath the thermostat housing. Some trucks use this port, some don't, depending upon year. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 564 Registered: 02-2003 |
i got perrones directions from spanish trail they see msimple enough. basically i am just stalling with question until payday then i can buy this stuff. BTW i clearly hi-jacked this thread. sorry. rd | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 818 Registered: 09-2002 |
first time i hear someone saying the S-word for hijacking the thread... i thought it's what DW is about  btw... does one 2" VDO temp gauge buy a speedo head? peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 566 Registered: 02-2003 |
lol, if you want i dont know the going rate, but i was shocked to find out my parts car only has 85k on it. i never looked at the speedo before. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1725 Registered: 02-2002 |
Continuing with the thread hi-jack, I have my temp gauge mounted under the hood. It served my purposes and continues. Same thing with the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail. I may not have continuous montoring of these parameters, but when I need it, it's there. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 822 Registered: 09-2002 |
Paul, nothing beats the instrument panel on a 747. We just need to work harder at finding the possible locations for the gauges! All I'd really need is a coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges to be happy... OTOH, I wish I never put the mechanical oil pressure gauge in the jeep - my standards continue to downgrade, now I think that 7psi/1000rpm is okay... peter | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 569 Registered: 02-2003 |
there is very little effort to put the guage on the dash of the range rover. it is calling to me "drill here" every night i hear it beckoning. then everyday i watch needle go up and down. i am almost certain a power flush is what i need most. but i want to time it so i put the guage in fill it up with tap water to get me to the local garage where they can do a power flush and purge. rd | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1729 Registered: 02-2002 |
Rob: I flushed and flushed and flushed. Nothing helped but a new radiator. | ||
| Rob Davison (Pokerob) Senior Member Username: Pokerob Post Number: 1768 Registered: 02-2002 |
yeah, your truck doesnt love you like mine does. she will be okay, if not i'll do a new radiator, at least it's an easy job. rd | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 16 Registered: 10-2002 |
While somebody walked by and merrily hijacked my thread, I spent last 2 nights after work installing the VDO temp gauge in one of those 2" holes in the dash. Yes TWO NIGHTS, probably 8 hours total. Found a lot of old mods, switches, wiring etc once I dropped the lower dash panels. Cleared some stuff, tidied up the rest, and also ripped out old, shot aircon. Tested V between earth and + (picked up from radio) at 12.3V, and used these and temp sender (obviously..) as input to new gauge. Can't test gauge without vehicle running. Can't run vehicle without assembling panels 'cause panels laying on pedals and gear lever. So I did what I always do: Assemble everything, clean up garage, THEN went for a drive.. to find neither the !#$%^% temp gauge or radio works! So tomorrow night I'm in for another 4 hours. Nice cars, these rangies. Jaco | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 831 Registered: 09-2002 |
see, that's why we're here bitchin' about the things instead of doing them. peter | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1741 Registered: 02-2002 |
Found a lot of old mods, switches, wiring etc once I dropped the lower dash panels. Jaco: This sounds so familiar-I'm in the middle of the same thing. Peace, Paul | ||
| Rob Davison (Pokerob) Senior Member Username: Pokerob Post Number: 1770 Registered: 02-2002 |
see i just fins old mold string and mouse shit in my car. jaco, my shock and spring change took two days 18 due to rust hardware. ps box 12 hours luckily my fuel pump was 2 hr including me cutting the floor. you win some, you loose some i guess rd | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1746 Registered: 02-2002 |
And you say my truck doesn't love me? 12 hours for a power steering box, I feel your pain. I also have spent way too long doing spring jobs, now I have an impact for the spring compressors! Gotta love the Disco with the trap door in the cargo area. | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 164 Registered: 02-2003 |
Mechanical gauges are SO much simpler. None of that "gauge doesn't work" crap. But everyone seems stuck on the electical gauges (except the guys who really rely on them). -P | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 834 Registered: 09-2002 |
well... it is a bit annoying when a mechanical oil pressure gauge fitting leaks a drop of oil every now and then, and you only find out a few months later | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1748 Registered: 02-2002 |
Hey Perrone: Got a fuel pressure gauge? My mechanical fuel pressure gauge works just as well as my mechanical temp gauge. Might have to open the hood, but they both work! Then again, if you ask my wife, the hood is open more often than not:-) Peace, Paul | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 165 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter, Thats true, but if you use good plumbing, it's not something you'll ever have to worry about. Mine has been intact for over a year with just the crappy, supplied plastic plumbing. I'll plumb the real stuff with AN Fittings this summer probably. Paul, I don't have a FPG. I wish I did as it would have helped me diagnose my no-start condition last week. I wouldn't trade my mechanical temp gauge for a dozen electrics. And it is VERY interesting to watch the temps when the truck is off. Placing it right at the radiator side of the thermostat housing also allows me to see how long it takes to warm up, and alerts me if there is a stuck thermostat. -P | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 574 Registered: 02-2003 |
i purchase the guage this weekend but fell short on installation time. i't got 3/4 of the way to hot again and had me a little worried. my bro-in-law busted out this laser guided thermometer and we checked it right below around the t-stat and got a temp of 212. 212 and the needle at 3/4. this releives a bit of my worry. i thought it would have been worse, and still might be. 4th o' july is the slated install. i have some water wetter in the post along with some other cleaning product that you just dump in. will let you guys know. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 835 Registered: 09-2002 |
Perrone, you're right about the plastic tubing. I didn't trust the plastic, so I got a roll of 1/8" copper tubing and used that. Guess it never sealed completely, despite my best efforts at that. | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 22 Registered: 10-2002 |
OK, I've got the VDO gauge going. cooling circuit setup (and other info): 1. VDO sender fitted right next to the OEM one. 2. Coolant: 50% water, 50% antifreeze. 3. No air locks. 4. No coolant loss. 5. No visc coupling, early model with fixed fan. 6. No v-belt slippage. 7. Radiator cored. 8. No radiator airflow restrictions. 9. 180�F t.stat, tested, has a bleed hole (top). 10. Waterpump impeller checked. 11. Timing as per the book. 12. Spark plugs NGK BCP5ES. 13. Vehicle is a '72 3.5L with new head gaskets. symptoms (70�F outside during the test run): 1. at idle & town driving temp settles at 180�F. 2. at 60mph on a flat road temp settles at 190�F. 3. at 60mph uphill the temp climbs to 208�F. 4. accel to 70mph uphill ups temp to 216�F, (at which stage I eased off to 60mph). 5. back on flat road, temp settles at 208�F, only 6. some time later again reaching 190�F (and only if there's no uphill before then). what next, do I: 1. change to different spark plugs? (book recommends NGK BP6ES) or 2. replace the radiator? or 3. replace the engin? or 4. replace the car? Jaco, still hot. | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 178 Registered: 02-2003 |
I still fail to see why you think you have a significant issue. The stock Rover gauge would have never moved off dead center with the temps you have described. However, I'd pull the thermostat out of the system and see if you have any difference. Then, I'd replace the radiator. I might also go to 60% water, and some water wetter. -P | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2002 |
I'd like temp to be lower and stay more constant, and around 190�F. Stock gauge is still fitted. Runs just below half in town, ups to between 3/4 and red going uphill. Same behaviour with thermostat out. Jaco | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 701 Registered: 02-2003 |
http://www.4unique.com/cooling/cooling_products.htm#wetter i just did the water wetter and cleaning RMI stuff in mine and it really works. it's about 15 deg cooler. it was always creaping to the red now it stays at 1/2 notch. it's only been a week so i dont know if the effects last as long as they claim of if the cleaner is doing it's thing yet. rd | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 26 Registered: 10-2002 |
Rob/somebody I can't find water wetter anywhere(this is Africa..). What is this stuff? Can you pass me chemical name / composition? Jaco | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 282 Registered: 07-2002 |
http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 456 Registered: 09-2002 |
These guys sell it. Maybe they'd ship it to you: http://www.britishpacific.com/ | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 784 Registered: 02-2003 |
i could only find it online. i reconfirm a month later that it did help. i can still get the car really hot though. it just takes longer and it has to be a really long hill. for $15 though it was a good band-aid until i can get cash together to replace the radiator. rd | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 457 Registered: 09-2002 |
"until i can get cash together to replace the radiator" I never told you I found a spare radiator on ebay for $25 brand new, did I? | ||
| Jaco de Klerk (Biltongvreter) New Member Username: Biltongvreter Post Number: 27 Registered: 10-2002 |
Thanks Alan, Steve. I've read the info on website and will give it another shot - think I've seen something like this.. name just differs. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 786 Registered: 02-2003 |
spare? as in you dont need it and would be willing to pass the deal unto me hehe don't be a rad tease steve. rob | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 459 Registered: 09-2002 |
Well, last year i overheated on the way to a camping trip, truck full of family and gear, so i limped to the nearest dealer and bent over for a new radiator - what was i going to do - the kids were crying and shit. Shortly after I see a new frickin' rad - same part number - sitting on ebay. No reserve, $25 minimum, nobody else bids, I win it. So now i have a spare. I like to think I got 2 radiators for $1100, don't feel so bad about the first one | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 787 Registered: 02-2003 |
you could put it for sale on discoweb as a "blue light special" and try to get $800 for it. that way someone saves $300 off retail rd | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 460 Registered: 09-2002 |
you mean BRAND NEW refurbished? Nah, I know I'll need it someday. The dealer break down was something like $800 for the rad. plus 3 hours labor - per the book - plus tax. Funny how I was on the road again in 45 mins. but still had to pay for 3 hours labor. I guess the dealers do that ALL the time. |
