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Steve Abbott (S_abbott)
New Member
Username: S_abbott

Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

First love these trucks.

Second heres my siduation:

I just bought a 1996 RR 4.0. It's running well and I have had it for two months+ now. I took it into a shop Classic 4x4 (great place) and they told me it needed a Valve Reaming, Oil Pan Clean and Reseal, Replace Front Crank Seal and RR the headgaskets. - Estimated $2750! OUCH I just bought this. They told me that their was not coolant leaks but there was a lot of oil leaking (none on driveway so far so on tons)

Anyway two questions:

1. Does this sound necessary to you RR pros/guru's? Should I be concerned that if its not done I may end up with much bigger problems?
2. Does this sound expensive and or seem inline cost wise?


Thanks !!!!!
 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1731
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If it runs well and you can afford the oil (buy it in five-gallon buckets), don't do anything!

When it starts to run poorly and throws codes for multiple misfires, have a valve job done.

As for the oil pan gasket and front seal, you can do both of these yourself pretty easily.

If it ran well, why did you take it to a shop?

Peace,
Paul
 

Alan Bates (Alanb)
Member
Username: Alanb

Post Number: 223
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Thursday, June 26, 2003 - 01:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My previous 95 4.0se was always oily underneath, leaked a couple of drops everyday from various places, never noticed it on the dipstick, if its not leaking on the driveway, I wouldn't worry about it, unless it starts hermmorraging oil.

Tip: If your EAS starts acting up, convert to coil springs.
 

Steve Abbott (S_abbott)
New Member
Username: S_abbott

Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 07:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the input guys.

Paul - I took it to the shop for a coolant charge and asked them to do an inspection. When you say "easy" for the oil pan and front seal is there a walk thru I can follow? I am pretty dam good as a general handy man and with a manual I am solid but I don't already have a strong knowledge of the process.
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 42
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What is a valve reaming and how did they determine you need a valve reaming. Sounds like what they really want to do is a check-book reaming.
Oil pan clean? Why didn't they just wipe it off?
How did they figure your oil pan needed cleaning unless they took it off and looked inside?
Who are these guys? Where there any Rovers there or are J@$ps parked all over?
Having said all that it is a good idea to clean the sludge, if any, from the bottom of the oil pan.
I bought my '90 RR used at 148K. At 165K, I took the engine apart for a rebuild. The bottom of the oil pan had between 1/8" and 1/4" of congealed petroleum substance/chunks. No matter how often I changed the oil, it always looked dark and worn out soon after. Duh.
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Plus, "they said there was no coolant leaking but lots of oil leaks". Coolant leaking, engine overheating, etc., is the main indicator of a failed head gasket. Lots of oil from the head area is probably the valve cover gaskets. There are only four, (4) (yes - 4) small, look like #10 screws that hold the valve cover to the head.
Make sure these are tight. They are prolly loose, mine were, and I had one or two missing, I don't think mine even had a lock washer under the head-(that vaunted Solihull QQ) - hence leaks. Or replace the gaskets - they are fairly cheap.

 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1745
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Eric:
When my head gasket went, the only coolant leak was from the failed water pump seal. It got hot enough for two exhaust valve guides to fall from their homes and stick the valves open.

As for the valve cover gaskets, Steve, you will need an 8 m/m 12-point socket. Good luck finding one as they are not the most common thing to find. You are far better off replacing them with 1/4-20 socket head cap screws that can be tightened easily.

Peace,
Paul
 

micky dee (Kincangokicker)
New Member
Username: Kincangokicker

Post Number: 18
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 09:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

well all these problems with rovers? THATS IT! well its entirely up to you on what work you want done. but if it ran fine and is still runnning fine than drive it. and do what is require at intervals that suit you. you did mention that you are handy.. so get cracking and enjoy the life of sereis-less rovering.....
 

trevor griffiths (Trevorgriffiths)
Member
Username: Trevorgriffiths

Post Number: 120
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2003 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Classic 4x4 is a Rover shop and owned by one of the most knowledgeable Rover techs around-Dawson Sanner. I think 'checkbook reaming' is a very harsh statement, and does a disservice to Dawson's name and his shop. One would be hard-pressed to find a late 90's Range Rover or Discovery that doesn't need head gaskets or valve work sooner than later.
In my Rover shop, we perform similar repairs at least three times a month. We don't have the volume that Classic has, but it is a good measure of how common this problem is. We also have found a number of vehicles post-96 model year that many oil leaks were reduceby the replacement of the oil seperator and both breather hoses. Doesn't make up for carbon build-up or accumulated sludge, but does reduce oil leaks considerably.
I would like to think an apology is in order for attacking the character of someone you have probably never had a business relationship with.
Trevor Griffiths
Treasured Motorcar Services
Reisterstown, Maryland
 

Gil Stevens (Gil)
Senior Member
Username: Gil

Post Number: 351
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I to can vouch for Dawson. Hes not in this to clean you out, and with the amount of trucks he works on he doesnt have to "reame your checkbook".. he does an incredible business. I, as a Land Rover sales guide have had his guys work on my truck even though I had 4 "factory" techs less than 40 feet away. They know what they are doing. and fwiw.. i had 96 range rover 4.0 for 18 months that needed every seal and gasket replaced. This is where a nice warranty helps to keep things painless.
 

Steve Abbott (S_abbott)
New Member
Username: S_abbott

Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Not a question regarding Classic 4x4 at all. Just a question to see if/how important this service was to the overall health of my Rover.

Just trying to weigh in the cost vs. the risk.

Thanks.

Also - is the official manual similar to a chiltons manual? Does if have how to procedures?

Thanks again.

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