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DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through July 04, 2003 » Help in LA area changing brake pads for the first time « Previous Next »

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Mark (Mistert)
New Member
Username: Mistert

Post Number: 23
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Anyone in the LA area want to help me change my DII brake pads? This will be my first time attempting this, so I don't want to run into any problems or worse make a mistake somewhere. Beer and lunch is on me.... Let me know, thanks. tippman1@excite.com
 

Alan Bates (Alanb)
Member
Username: Alanb

Post Number: 228
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry can't help you, but have a look at this:

http://expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/indexmain.htm

 

Jack Edwards (Olered)
Senior Member
Username: Olered

Post Number: 360
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 03:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Not to kill your offer but you will die when you see how easy it is. Tire removal takes the longest. A one-armed blind man could do it. Check out www.expeditionexchange.com for a full description.
Cheers.
 

Mark (Mistert)
New Member
Username: Mistert

Post Number: 24
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 04:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

when putting the wheels back on, don't the lugnuts have to be tourqued to a certain spec? or can you just screw them back on with the wrench?
 

Jim H. (Victor_mature)
Member
Username: Victor_mature

Post Number: 107
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Should be torqued to 96-100 ft/lbs but nice and tight with a long breaker bar is good enough. Tighten in a 'star' pattern.

Or you can use the old method of tightening it until it breaks and then back it off 1/4 turn.

:-) Jim
 

Mark (Mistert)
New Member
Username: Mistert

Post Number: 25
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 05:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

P.S. If it makes it easier for you, I'll drive to you. Thanks again!
 

Alan Bates (Alanb)
Member
Username: Alanb

Post Number: 230
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Friday, June 27, 2003 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This is what I do, put the lug nuts back on with the factory lug nut wrench as tight as you can, recheck tightness after maybe 50 to 100 miles. I also check them every so often. I hate it when someone with an air wrench cranks down on the lugnuts and you can't get them off when you need to without a 10' cheater bar. This way you know you can remove them when you need to with the lug wrench.
 

Jim H. (Victor_mature)
Member
Username: Victor_mature

Post Number: 108
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just a FWIW, I recommend buying a second long breaker bar and a 1-1/16" 6-point socket to keep in the vehicle instead of that piece of shit excuse for a factory lug wrench that comes with your vehicle. It's not only completely worthless, it's an embarrasment to the men who built the vehicle, the people that drive them and the apes that we decended from.
Get rid of it!
(obviously, I have issues)
Jim
 

Mark (Mistert)
New Member
Username: Mistert

Post Number: 32
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2003 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I bought an impact wrench which was a piece of shit, so I used the factory lug wrench on all four wheels. Worked very well and took off the lugnuts that the dealer put on with their 1100ft/lb impact wrenches!!
 

Daniel Covaciu (Danielcovaciu)
Senior Member
Username: Danielcovaciu

Post Number: 344
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I have looked at that EE write up for the DII. Are there any important diffrences for the DI? I need to do all 4 brakes on my 98.
 

adam harbaugh (Eightman)
New Member
Username: Eightman

Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just picked up a 94' D1 last week and the owner said it needed new rear brake pads in about 2k miles. I will attempt to do the same repair you are doing - and it will be my first ever "under-the-hood" experience. Please let me know how it goes and post any tips, etc. - I'd greatly appreciate the info. By the way, what type of brake pads did you buy?
 

Chris Whybrew (Dcwhybrew)
Member
Username: Dcwhybrew

Post Number: 43
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Monday, June 30, 2003 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Daniel and Adam, I have sent you instructions via email.

Adam, I bought genuine brake pads from Atlantic British.

Chris
 

Mark (Mrroverman)
New Member
Username: Mrroverman

Post Number: 38
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 01, 2003 - 08:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

use only genuine brake pads. Or your brakes will make noise. Roverconnection got cheap price for genuine brake pads.
 

Eddie (Honu)
Member
Username: Honu

Post Number: 124
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 01, 2003 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

you dont need genuine pads to avoid the squeek. i use axis (made by mintex in australia) or mintex brand pads and i have no problems. the trick is to put a bunch of the silicone(anti squeel spray) on the back of the pad before installing.

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