| Author | Message | ||
     Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) New Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 23 Registered: 05-2003 |
I was changing the gear oil on my 97 disco, and I noticed a lot of gear oil around the front of the rear diff. When I drained it, the oil was very milky, so I'm assuming that I had some water get in there, and that the front diff seal/bearing? needs to be changed. I've never done this before, so I have no idea whether I need any specialized equipment like a puller, or pressing tool. I'd appreciate any tips. Thanks | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 67 Registered: 05-2003 |
Jaime you need to be carefull when changing a pinion seal. The pinion uses a crushable spacer between the bearings to allow the correct preload. this is designed to be used once only. If you remove and replace the flange and over tighten the nut you stuff the preload. How you do it is mark the postion of the nut with paint or similar. Undo the nut and count the turns. replace the seal and refitt the flange and do up the nut the same number of turns to the mark and you'll be sweet. | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 235 Registered: 12-2002 |
In the same situation. I never thought of marking the nut - good idea Shaun! Thx! | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) New Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 24 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thanks for the advice Shaun. I'm sure I would hace screwed it up otherwise! | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 809 Registered: 02-2002 |
That is NOT correct. There is no one-time crush washer on a Rover diff. From the pinion flange side of things - all there is is an oil seal, spacer and bearing. The shims are below the bearing. There are preload shims (Reusable), but you don't need to mess with those if you are just changing an oil seal. If you are replacing a bearing, you may have to reset preload. To change oil seal, just remove flange, remove seal, clean, refit new seat, and then reinstall flange. Bill | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) New Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 25 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thanks for the additional input Bill. I just ordered the pinion oil seal from AB. The guy I spoke with (Lyman) said it was a difficult job best left to someone who's done it before, and you need a special tool. Now, I'm not afraid to get dirty and to give it a shot, but what is this special tool? He didn't seem to know. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 811 Registered: 02-2002 |
If you have a rotoflex coupling it is a pain to pull the pinion flange, but it is do-able without the special tool - there is a writeup on this site and much previous discussion about it. if you have a u-jointed DS, then it is easy to pull the pinion flange - just one nut to take off once the DS is out of the way. Bill | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1751 Registered: 02-2002 |
Two of the special tools are little more than an iron bar with two holes in it to immobilize the pinion so the nut can be loosened. To remove the centering pin, some have suggested using a deep well socket that will fit over the pin, and running an 8 m/m X 1.25 bolt through the end of the socket to pull the pin. I tend to think of this way as the most elegant. | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) New Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 26 Registered: 05-2003 |
Some great suggestions fellas! I feel a lot more confident trying this project now....maybe this weekend. | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 70 Registered: 05-2003 |
Bill Your correct LR diffs do use shims for preload my mistake. Sorry for my error. I use the counting the turns method on most diffs however as i don't have a manual for all makes of cars and I don't want alter preload on diffs with the a crush spacer, (which most Australian cars have), when fixing a leak. |
