| Author | Message | ||
     Mel A. (Krawlrovr) Member Username: Krawlrovr Post Number: 109 Registered: 06-2002 |
A friend of mine just ordered an OME lift (shocks and springs) for his 1990 Range Rover Classic. He wants me to install it with some help. I read Kyle's spring/shock install and have a good idea of what I am doing. The install seems easy, but I was wondering if you guys have any 'pointers' or 'tips' to give me before I do the install. Thanks. | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) Senior Member Username: Jason Post Number: 493 Registered: 04-2002 |
The install is easy. The only tips are the obvious...quality jack and jack-stands. Don't come back telling us a story about how the cinder-blocks you were using collasped.  | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 185 Registered: 09-2002 |
Piece of cake, just take your time and clean stuff up while you are in there. Also unless you are in Arizona or Texas, check the front shock towers for rust, they may need to be replaced at the same time. | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 186 Registered: 09-2002 |
One more thing get a good set of spring tensioners. | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 234 Registered: 07-2002 |
You can rent/borrow the spring compressors from autozone, you might not need them since 90 rr doesn't have sway bars, just drop the axles as low as it will go, watch the brake lines. Might also have to get new shock tower rings, check to see if you can remove the nuts without snapping the bolt heads, these rust up pretty good. Soak the bottom shock bolts and all the bolts you can see with PBlaster/liquid wrench, bottom front shock bolt is a pain and the shock might want to spin on you, if it does, you can get a strap wrench from sears or jerry rig a strap around the shock to keep it from spinning, pipe wrench might also work. Hardest part is removing all the old rusted crap. | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) Senior Member Username: Jason Post Number: 497 Registered: 04-2002 |
Alan's got it right. You should not need spring compressors at all. If your vehicle is equipped with sway bars, disconnecting them to remove the springs will be quicker than fudging with a set of spring compressors. If you don't have a pair of vice-grips large enough, you can always drill a hole in the shock, wedge a screwdriver in it and lever it in place to break the nut...don't ask me how I know this. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 581 Registered: 02-2003 |
buy new rings that going under the front shock towers they are only likew $12 each and it 's well worth it. soack everything heavely with PB blaster or WD-40 starting severla days before the instal. hit them up a few times daily. despite what everyone here says my RR was so rusted that it took 12hours. and it was liek the 5th time i'd done a rover spring swap. it was all familiar wiuth me but just ewverything was rusted beyond high heaven. i usew the spring compressor with ratchet straps as a back up. | ||
| Jeffrey DelVecchio (Jeffreydv) New Member Username: Jeffreydv Post Number: 32 Registered: 01-2003 |
Where can you get new front shock towers? I have been avoiding changing my front shocks and springs because I am afraid the towers will fall apart from rust. Thanks, Jeff | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 235 Registered: 07-2002 |
Very common part, most any rover parts place will have it, roversnorth, atlantic british, rover connection, discountrovers, etc... About $50 to $60 each. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1759 Registered: 02-2002 |
I agree with Rob Davison. When I did my Disco, EVERYBODY said it would only be a few hours and it ended up taking almost six hours. I also use the compressors if for no other reason than peace of mind. Buy new shock rings for the front, you'll be glad you did. I have done many shock jobs and just this last weekend, did the first one where I did not break any of the studs from the ring. There is only one way to remove the front shocks-cutting torch! But, take the truck to the DIY car wash and clean all the crud out as sometimes, it can be hard to put the ensuing fire out. Peace, Paul Peace, Paul- | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 236 Registered: 07-2002 |
Sorry Paul and Rob only took me and a buddy about 4 hours in my driveway, must have got lucky ;-) An air impact wrench and swivel joints will help in removing those stubborn front shock bolts and other bolts too, Paul's torching method scares me :-) | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 187 Registered: 09-2002 |
Don't over tighten the new front rings, damn bolts break easily. I would still get the compressor. You need a tall jack to get it high enough to drop the axle down, plus the damn thing is old and break lines will be an issue, plus you have to get every bit of stretch out to put the new springs on. tensioners are fast and easy especially with an impact wrench. | ||
| Mel A. (Krawlrovr) Member Username: Krawlrovr Post Number: 110 Registered: 06-2002 |
thanks for all the help. I took a look at the rangie last night, and from a very amateur point of view...it looked rust free. I checked around the shock towers, the spring perches...nothing at all. This rangie seems very well maintained. The axles seem like they were brand new, along with the driveshafts. But just as a pre-caution, I will spray everything down with Pb blaster today or tomorrow. Also, where can I buy those shock tower rings? | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 237 Registered: 07-2002 |
rings: $16/each Roversnorth, $14/each atlantic british, can't remember if they came with hardware, if not get some lock washers and nuts for them, lowes/homedepot. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1763 Registered: 02-2002 |
Discount Rovers has the shock tower rings, I just had him ordered a pile in for me. Alan: I use the torch for nearly everything on my truck. Use one long enough and it becomes second nature to remember to turn the hose on before lighting the torch. I even had to use the torch when I installed my ARB bumper! | ||
| Mel A. (Krawlrovr) Member Username: Krawlrovr Post Number: 112 Registered: 06-2002 |
The suspension finally arrived, and we are going to do the install tomorrow. But I am still a bit hesitant. I have a few questions that have been running through my head all day. How much should I torque the wrench to tighten the bolts? How do I initially jack up the car? Is there anything tricky when messing with the bushings around the shocks? When putting in the new shocks, should I extend them? Is there a more specific install instruction for the Range Rover Classic? | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 244 Registered: 07-2002 |
Loosen lugnuts with wheels on the ground, chock wheels on end you are not working on, then if you have a large floor jack, you can put it under the pumpkin and jack it up until you get both wheels off the ground, remove wheels, put jack stands under frame rails, lower onto jack stands. Now lower the jack as low as the axle will allow without over extending a brake line. If you don't have a large floor jack you can use two smaller jacks on either side of the axle tubes to raise the wheels off the ground. Just use your common sense on how much to tighten the bolts, no real trick to putting bushings around the shocks, just make sure you assemble them in the correct order per instructions. Don't sweat it, take your time, and once you get things apart you will see how it will all go together. | ||
| Craig Alexander (Craig89rr) New Member Username: Craig89rr Post Number: 23 Registered: 01-2003 |
do yourself a favor and shoot rust eater or WD40 on all bolts a few days before starting. unless you do, you WILL be buying new rings as everyone said. i just did my 89 and it was no problem at all. just be care when lowering the axle that you keep an eye on your brake lines. there was NO WAY without taking my brake lines off could i have done mine without the spring compressors. the bad thing is is that you need 2 different compressors. you need the strut style for the front and regular for the back. if you are installing standard springs its no sweat, if they have any lift, get a 2x4 and a sledge. just take your time...its a straight forward job. good luck Craig89RR | ||
| marc waitek (Singingcamel) New Member Username: Singingcamel Post Number: 9 Registered: 05-2003 |
i have a section on my web site that shows installation of the o m e ...you will not need the spring compressors marc |
