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John Friederich (Jfriedlvcmcom)
Member Username: Jfriedlvcmcom
Post Number: 50 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 07:49 pm: |
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Got back from wheelin up a mountain trail yesterday, got home unloaded gear, and put the beast (minus most of the paint due to the brush & trees). Today, went to Costco (probably doesn't have anything to do with it), unlocked the doors with the remote, all buttons popped up, but the rear door won't open. Crawled in, and the rear door latch doesn't open it either. There seems so be no resistance with either the inside or outside latch. All other doors work normaly. Any ideas? Have you heard of this happening before? Thanks, John Friederich Las Vegas, NV 2001 w/ 14k miles |
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Chris Browne (Chris_browne)
Member Username: Chris_browne
Post Number: 207 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 08:01 pm: |
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Take a screwdriver and carefully pry the external latch back into its proper position. Spray wd 40 or better up there too. Dust etc gets into the mechanism and blocks it. On the D1 (maybe true of d2 as well) you can pry the land rover logo out for better access. Once its free, recommend you repeat this lube program in 24 hours to clear any extra loosen junk outta there |
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Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Member Username: Erik
Post Number: 241 Registered: 04-2002
| Posted on Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 11:59 pm: |
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I have found that on my DII, WD-40 doesn't do all that good a job, it works, but only for a few weeks (of on-road driving). Today I had to pull the interior panneling off to get the WD-40 deeper into the mechanism, but next time, I'm going to remove the mechanism entirely and grease it from top to bottom. BTW: The only way I have gotten my door to work again after it gets cranky is to smack it arround. Driving for a bit also works. (Smack it real hard. I usually hurt my hand...) |
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Davis Reed (Davis_reed)
New Member Username: Davis_reed
Post Number: 23 Registered: 04-2003
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 10:48 pm: |
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Ya have the same problem. I usually just lock and unlock till the damn thing opens. Sometimes just pulling on the outside handle multiple times does the job. I'm gonna try the WD-40 or some of my bike chain lube to see if the thing won't screw up on me at the worst of times. |
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John Lombos (Rover4us)
Member Username: Rover4us
Post Number: 43 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 10:54 pm: |
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John-did the same thing when it first happened to me. Went to pick up the dogs from the vet and wouldn't open. Had to crawl under a LR dog guard to to try and open from inside. Still wouldn't open. I though the door fused together with the car or something. Second time, I swung the door to close it and it made a horrible crashing sound and bounced right back at me. Lubed it really good that time. Haven't had any problems since. Too funny! |
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John Friederich (Jfriedlvcmcom)
Member Username: Jfriedlvcmcom
Post Number: 51 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Sunday, July 06, 2003 - 11:54 pm: |
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I've tried what I can try, and still no luck. To the dealer I go, this week, as it is under warranty, I assume. I had to flip the spare carrier (6 mo. ago) to accomodate the slightly larger tires, and in the process had to cut the plastic liner inside the rear panel. I thought I covered the holes pretty well with packing tape, we'll see if the dealer says anything about that causing the problem... John F |
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Jay Martin (Blue_jay)
New Member Username: Blue_jay
Post Number: 12 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 09:14 pm: |
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Same thing on my '95 D1. Use two people. One holds the key in the unlock position and holds it. The second person is inside and pulls the handle. It should work, then clean with lube. |
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Tony Kronkaitis (Gremlin)
New Member Username: Gremlin
Post Number: 16 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 04:28 am: |
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Had this problem on my 2000 DII. Interior and axterior latches did'nt work. Once I pried the external latch down with my finger-tips I was able to open the door. I did notice that the "rubber du-hickey" on the strike plate was cut.. I'm wondering if this got into the latch mechanism and gummed up the works by preventing the latch mechanism from properly closing??? Has'nt been a problem since then |
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John Friederich (Jfriedlvcmcom)
Member Username: Jfriedlvcmcom
Post Number: 52 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 02:22 pm: |
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Ah HA! Before subjecting the vehicle to the dealer, I tried locking/unlocking 15 times or so in rapid succession, and the latch opened! There was dirt caked all over the latch assembly. Tried vacuuming, but wound up spraying the crap out of the whole assembly with WD-40. Works great now. I'll have to remember to do this every few months so I don't have to crawl in back to get my beer... John F Las Vegas, NV |
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Chris Browne (Chris_browne)
Member Username: Chris_browne
Post Number: 213 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 02:37 pm: |
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Gee what a surprised as predicted! Spray again tomorrow, to clean loosened crud out |
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John Friederich (Jfriedlvcmcom)
Member Username: Jfriedlvcmcom
Post Number: 53 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:36 pm: |
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Yes, Chris, you get the gold star for correct diagnostics. I just resprayed. 70% of our driving is on dirt / gravel, so I guess I'm suprised it didn't happen sooner. Thanks, John F Las Vegas, NV |
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todd slater (Toddslater)
Senior Member Username: Toddslater
Post Number: 309 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 03:39 pm: |
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Returned home from 2 wks in Colo on Monday eve. D2 spent some time at the dealer (head work)while we were gone. The Mrs.needed to hit the grocery store so we could eat, so I went to the back to open it up to flip the seats up for her...and nothing...no resistance. Did the lock on, lock off futzing, went inside and could open it from there....pulled the LR logo, applied liberal amounts of WD-40. Using a screw driver manipulated the the latching mechanism and continually lubed it...still it was a no go from the outside handle. Since it was under warranty, drove it up to the dealer...busted connector that holds the linkage in place. Something to keep in mind if yours doesn't respond to the lube job. |
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Jeff Eiermann (Jeffe)
New Member Username: Jeffe
Post Number: 22 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 04:02 pm: |
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Todd, Exactly what did you have done on your D2? Do you frequent LR Wilmington or West Chester? Jeff |
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todd slater (Toddslater)
Senior Member Username: Toddslater
Post Number: 310 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 04:04 pm: |
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The head issue or door issue ? LR West Chester. |
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Jeff Eiermann (Jeffe)
New Member Username: Jeffe
Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2002
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 08:53 am: |
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Todd, The head issue. Curious as to what issues you had. Jeff |
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todd slater (Toddslater)
Senior Member Username: Toddslater
Post Number: 311 Registered: 08-2002
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 10:06 am: |
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I performed the 45k service and it was due for PA inspection. While underneath I noticed a fair bit o' oil around the oil pan and more heavily concentrated at the back. So, I call LR WC and scheduled the inspection, asked to verify that I did the 45k and stamp the book and to check out the leak. They did the above and reported that the oil was coming from the head gasket (NC). I said that if they are pulling the heads that I wanted them to take a good hard look at the ex valve/guides for build up. As that has been the subject of many posts and quite honestly with my luck, I figured this issue would arise and implode just after warranty pisses out. Other than a little bit of oil leakage collecting near the pan, the motor was running fine. They pulled the heads and ended up reconditioning them, which included a cleaning and honing of the ex guides. All systems seem to be fine. Yesterday, I cleaned all the oil off the pan and block and will monitor this. 4k left until the warranty fairy goes away. |