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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 22 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 11:13 am: |
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Could a bad fuel pump cause the engine to rev between 1000 and 1600 with the IAC disconnected? It revs up and down rather quickly. |
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Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor)
Senior Member Username: Nosivad_bor
Post Number: 598 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 11:35 am: |
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turn off air cond too. any vacume leaks? is engine at tempature when you the test? have the o2 sensors warmed up and are giving feedback? fuel pump doent sound like it. the regulator should keep it steady and if anything it would be low, in my opinion. rd |
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 23 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Monday, July 07, 2003 - 03:43 pm: |
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Rob, Engine was at operating temp. Air cond. was off. Also, I may not have made it clear about the revving. It doesn't simply rev up and stay there, it cycles quickly up and down from about 1000 to 1600 rpms. |
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Shaun Power (Shaunp)
Member Username: Shaunp
Post Number: 80 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 02:01 am: |
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Air flow meter I reckon,try cleaning the connector and sensor wires with contact clean spray(not WD40) |
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 24 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2003 - 07:55 am: |
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Shaun, When you say the sensor wires, do you mean the mesh area on the inlet? |
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Shaun Power (Shaunp)
Member Username: Shaunp
Post Number: 82 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 05:27 am: |
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No the the hot and cold wires are inside the ventury in a bypass port off to one side. These are the things that can get covered with dust or oil if you run a K&N or Uni filter. Make sure you only use proper electronic contact cleaner. |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1794 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 07:59 am: |
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Cyclic surging like you have described is more commonly caused by a vacuum leak or (believe it or not) low coolant (messes up sensor readings). If it seems as though there is a switc causing the engine speeds to vary, I would first look at coolant level. |
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Blake Monchilovich (Azblake)
Member Username: Azblake
Post Number: 65 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 09:29 am: |
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I had mine hunting at idle due to a cooked ignition amplifier module. |
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 25 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 11:53 am: |
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Blake, I am thinking that my be my problem as well...did you end up relocating your ignition amp module when you replaced it? |
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Love Jones (The_tool_man)
Member Username: The_tool_man
Post Number: 41 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 07:40 pm: |
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yes.. i know 100% it is your maf gone bad. if the connections are not clean, then it is dead. $250 motors ltd.com |
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Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
Senior Member Username: Jason
Post Number: 529 Registered: 04-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, July 09, 2003 - 08:12 pm: |
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Coming from the expert... |
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Shaun Power (Shaunp)
Member Username: Shaunp
Post Number: 86 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 05:08 am: |
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I normally find the ign amp also causes the car to just stop. Temp sensors are easy to check just heat in water and measure the resistance. 32 deg f = about 5800 ohm 68 = 2500 104 = 1200 176 = 350 212 = 180 give or take a bit.
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 26 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 08:30 am: |
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This would explain why mine has "stopped" several times...just like the switch was turned off. It would always start back up after a few minutes. I have heard that the ign amp on the 94's go bad due to the location/heat. I suppose I should relocate the new one when I get it????
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1802 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 11:47 am: |
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Mark: While you're at it, save some bucks and replace it with a GM amplifier! |
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Love Jones (The_tool_man)
Member Username: The_tool_man
Post Number: 48 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 07:06 pm: |
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part number pual?? |
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michael harrington (Mike97d1)
New Member Username: Mike97d1
Post Number: 2 Registered: 07-2003
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 08:42 pm: |
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mine had the same idle problem.i got some electronics cleaner at home depot,took out my mass air sensor and sprayed it down a few times. it's been fine for three months |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1811 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Thursday, July 10, 2003 - 10:19 pm: |
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The Sorensen EL 102 works fine. Wire it up the same way as the GM HEI distributors. If you get it wrong, you just blow a fuse. Use a big heatsink. |
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 27 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2003 - 08:40 am: |
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Paul, That EL102 sounds great...can you give me a rough idea of how to wire it in? They have one local here at Advance for 12.99!! Also, with regard to your previous suggestion that coolant level or a temp sensor might cause the cyclical surging with the IAC disconnected, wouldn't I notice some overheating problems or high temp readings if that were the case? As always, your expert opinion is always appreciated. |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1813 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2003 - 09:13 am: |
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Mark: First off, the coolant level only needs to be low enough that the sensor is not immersed at some point in the operating cycle. If it is low and then expands due to temperature variations to where it covers the sensor, the problem goes away. I learned this the hard way on a Toyota I put an engine into last fall. Ran great, but it felt as though someone was pushing a switch to force the engine to rev, but once the vehicle came to operating temperature, the cycling would go away. I topped off the coolant and Bingo, the cycling went away. As for the EL-102, there are four connections, two go to the pick up coil-with little to no regard for polarity. The other two go to the coil. If you wire it up backwards, it blows the fuse and reverse the wires and away you go. The case must be grounded and as the device dissipate a tremendous amount of energy as heat, you must provide for a means to remove this heat. I have used large aluminum heat sinks... Peace, Paul |
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Mark McLain (Mtndisco)
New Member Username: Mtndisco
Post Number: 28 Registered: 05-2003
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2003 - 03:32 pm: |
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Paul, Thanks for the information...I have an old PC Processor heat sink that should work well on it. I'll let you know what happens... |
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Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member Username: Paulschram
Post Number: 1832 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Friday, July 11, 2003 - 03:39 pm: |
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Mark: There are some pics proving I have really done it on the Pirate board. |
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Love Jones (The_tool_man)
Member Username: The_tool_man
Post Number: 52 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 01:43 pm: |
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hey paul and mark.. do you think that the this could be my problem as well? on my 95 disco, where would my amp be located? i see something beside the ign coil. can you email me the web site with pics, so i can connect mine properly? |