| Author | Message | ||
     Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 149 Registered: 09-2002 |
Ok, I need some help with this thing. I have oil leaking down my right front tire, and my left front tire has a clicking coming from it. So, I pulled apart the left axle, all the way down to the CV joint, and inspected it, all went well. I replaced the oil seal in the "drive member/brake disc" unit. I had the seal for the stub axle, but Nathan told me not to replace it unless it was leaking. Well I went ahead and tore the right axle down, about 10x as fast too!. Anyhow, since I'm leaking what appears to be oil from the swivel down the tire, I cant figure in my head, another way for oil to get there unless the stub axle seal is shot. I would replace this, as I have both the stub axle and the oil seal sitting on the work bench, but the workshop manual shows it to be a major PIA. You have to drill / chisel out this metal ring, then use some LR special tool that's a slide hammer modified to pull out the seal/bearing. Then there are 2 more tools needed to press the seal/bearing back in. Well, I figure I could get the seal/bearing in without those fancy tools, but its the getting the seal out that I'm having trouble with. I'm half tempted to take the stub axle and the seal to the dealership, and pay them an hours work to do it for me. Do you guys have any suggestions or tips on simplifying this for me? I dont have that metal ring to press back in there when I'm done, so I do have to take a trip to the dealership. Thanks for the help guys, Jared PS. If you can think of another way for the oil to get there, lemme know. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1796 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jared: Folks commonly remove the stub axle seal intentionally to bathe the bearings in 90 wt. I find it very common for the seal to have failed (for some reason, it is mostly pass. side). So, don't sweat that seal. As for where the oil is coming from, you're on your own. The drive member,etc. is often called the hub. You can use a socket or piece of pipe to drive the seal back in | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 150 Registered: 09-2002 |
So you're saying it's not really that big of a deal if that seal is failed because some people want to let the 90W oil lubricate that bearing in the stub? If that seal wasnt there, then what'd prevent the oil from leaving the swivel housing? One other thing. On the drivers side, I noticed the axle did not turn freely when I was removing everything. Now that I have that side back on I can turn the wheel forward or backwards with no resistance. The same goes for the pass side. Did I somehow knock the diff into neutral? I hope not cause the DIFF LOCK shifter nob is seized, and I dont feel like tearing my console apart to fix the linkage(if that's how you even do it). | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 831 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jared - pretty much what Paul said, but if you do decide to remove the bronze thrust washer on the back of the stub axle - Do NOT follow those silly workshop instruction - that thrust washer comes out just fine with gentle application of a pipe wrench and taps back into place just as easily - no need for chiseling or replacement. As far as turning the wheels with no resistance -you cannot knock the Tcase into neutral just by playing with the front axle bits - but if you mean that they spin all the way around with no resistance while the truck is in park - then the axles shaft is not seated into the diff, but if that was the case, there would be no way to put the stub axle/hub/drive flange on ?? Bill | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 151 Registered: 09-2002 |
Bill I'm confused about the axles spinning too. I dont understand how they could not be in the diff and still fit back together properly. For example, on the passenger side, if I spin the hub clockwise, I notice the output shaft from the diff turns one way about a quarter turn, then stops spinning even though the hub is moving. Then if I turn the hub the opposite way(counter-clockwise) it'll turn that output shaft the opposite way too, about 1/4 turn back, and then stop spinning while the hub is spinning. Does this sound like the hub is in fact in neutral, or should I just wait, put everything back together, and then put the car on blocks, and hit the gas to see if the tires spin correctly? Heh that sounds sorta ghetto though, thanks for the help. | ||
| Jared Schnelle (Jared) Member Username: Jared Post Number: 152 Registered: 09-2002 |
How would you use a pipe wrench to grab a hold of that thrust ring? It's recessed in the stub axle. Thanks, Jared | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 179 Registered: 10-2002 |
I have the same leak, but very slow, it is the axel seal, and it fills the swivel with gear oil, now the leak in mine comes out the abs sensor, try tapping it down, that may slow it down! Peter |
