| Author | Message | ||
     Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 492 Registered: 08-2002 |
Which year Range Rover rear drive shaft will replace the rotoflex driveshaft on a '95 Disco 1. I have been told that an 1988 RR rear shaft will do this and you need a flange and spacer. What about earlier models, i.e. newer than 1988. Specifically what about a 1992? Let me know if you have any details on the years and shafts and any details associated. Thanks! Brian | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) Senior Member Username: Jason Post Number: 531 Registered: 04-2002 |
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| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 493 Registered: 08-2002 |
Did you mean to say something Jason? Comments welcome! Brian | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 344 Registered: 01-2003 |
What about the tech article in the tech section. Blue uses a 97 disco shaft and joint in a 95? I have a source for later disco drive shafts, I have just been to lazy to go pull one off a junked discovery. I'm curious too what will fit. There is always GBR conversion kits too, they aren't to pricey. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1799 Registered: 02-2002 |
Just about any year of the SWB variety should work as the wheelbases are close, if not identical. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 494 Registered: 08-2002 |
Where is your source? I am looking at the GBR for the front since I have a vibe, don't think I can afford both. | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 221 Registered: 02-2002 |
I wrote about this in another section. I bought a setup from Aaron Auto for about $125 that included the driveshaft, 4-bolt flange, and pinion nut washer. I bought the spacer from AB for about $10. | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 345 Registered: 01-2003 |
A junk yard out here in Utah; http://www.alltruckinc.com/ They have disco's and some RRC's. I can't remember if they are lwb or swb. But I do remember seeing drive shafts with u-joints. I know one of the rrc's was a 95, as I scored the clock out of it for my disco. That price of mikes sounds good. Mike is that new or used? | ||
| Norm Orschnorschki (Norm) Member Username: Norm Post Number: 82 Registered: 02-2003 |
Brian, I have a rear drive shaft for a '95 Disco I'd be willing to sell cheap. You've got e-mail. ---Norm | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 495 Registered: 08-2002 |
Ah, right. I looked over there, they did not have a pre-88, will look again for other years. I'll have to give them a shout and see if they include the flange since it is pricey new. Thanks. | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) On Probation Username: Jason Post Number: 533 Registered: 04-2002 |
Brian, I was going to say that a pre-88 would work, as they were equipped with the LT230 transfercase just like your Disco, but the Borg Warner equipped RRCs would not. However, BP lists only one p/n for a rear driveshaft for all years of RRCs...I haven't confirmed it, but give Marty a call at BP and he should be able to tell you if there are any differences in the shafts between pre-89 and 89-94. | ||
| Phil (Discoanywhere) Member Username: Discoanywhere Post Number: 48 Registered: 06-2003 |
Just stickin my nose in here outta curiousity... Whats up with the 95 driveshafts? Whats a Roto Flex Driveshaft? I'm assuming you would replace it with a RR shaft for a reason besides price?? | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) On Probation Username: Jason Post Number: 535 Registered: 04-2002 |
Check the tech section on the website. The "rotoflex" is big chunk of rubber something or other that connects the drive-shaft to the pinion flange of the differential WITHOUT the use of a U-joint. Downsides: it wears out; it creates vibration when larger suspension lifts are used (too much angle). Upsides: replacing the rotoflex is still cheaper than replacing the driveshaft with a u-jointed version. ...but after dropping all that money on your suspension lift, what stopping you from doing the job right? | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 496 Registered: 08-2002 |
A rotoflex is not something that is trivially repaired. Sure you can replace the roto easy enough, but the little bushing in the driveshaft is a PITA and you need to do this as well, especially if the roto went gradually and/or you spent some time driving with it while it was going. The parts for the stock roto driveshaft would need to be serviced by someone that might have parts that would be compatible with it. Just the roto and bushing costs around $80. If you are lucky, you can find a complete used RRC driveshaft with ujoints for around $80. If you go with something like a GBR driveshaft that uses parts that are much more available, you can repair components easier because anyone that is used to working on driveshafts can likely repair and find parts. Plus the GBR is likely more sturdy and less prone to failure (so I have heard). | ||
| Andy Thoma (Andythoma) Senior Member Username: Andythoma Post Number: 348 Registered: 01-2003 |
I think the biggest point is rotoflexs are prone to failure with a lift. I have had a mild lift on my truck for 1.5 years. The rotoflex was new when I did the lift and worked fine, but now it starting to fail by vibrating when I drive down hill and I'm off the gas. I think a roto is fine if you have no lift, but a u-joint will last longer and be easier to deal with in the long run. That's why I want to convert it. Not all year disco's have the roto, I think 97 d1's and up have u-joints, d2's I'm not sure about. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 79 Registered: 04-2003 |
what would you rather have driving you - a 1988 driveshaft or a 1997? get a newer shaft & 4-bolt flange from a junked, non-roto Disco, or get the whole kit from GBR | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 864 Registered: 09-2002 |
Brian, you don't need anything to do with that bushing when you replace the roto. Andy, from my experience - a roto lasts about 25kmi with 2" of lift. I'm going to buy my #3 on my way home today. | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) On Probation Username: Jason Post Number: 536 Registered: 04-2002 |
I dunno, Blue...I've got a 1983 driveshaft and it works pretty damn good... | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 80 Registered: 04-2003 |
A 1909 driveshaft may work pretty damn good, too. Maybe a broom handle & duct tape will work pretty damn good, but I wouldn't know, because I wouldn't use it. Perhaps I should rephrase: what would a smart guy rather have driving him - a 1988 driveshaft or a 1997? | ||
| Steve Andrews (Sillybus) Senior Member Username: Sillybus Post Number: 274 Registered: 08-2002 |
I thought I'd read (on D-web) that only 98 and 99 D1s have the u-joint driveshaft. Do all 97s have them or just some? | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 82 Registered: 04-2003 |
I think 97 is hit or miss only one way to know - direct observation | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1828 Registered: 02-2002 |
Gee, the driveshaft on my '88 Rangie is just fine... If it's good enough for my Rangie, why wouldn't it be good enough for my '95 Disco? While we're at it, I suppose the driveshafts on my '67 aren't any good either. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 866 Registered: 09-2002 |
Blue, does that mean that out of dozens of discos in San Ysidro chop shops you picked the 98? btw, after looking at my roto two days ago, i felt bad for letting that go. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 83 Registered: 04-2003 |
obviously my point is lost I give up and yes, Peter, that is what that means | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1829 Registered: 02-2002 |
Blue: Assuming all other things remain constant, what real difference would one expect from a driveshaft made in 1988 vs. one made in 1997? If someone has an opportunity to obtain one, versus another, realistically, there would be no discernible difference. | ||
| Greg Bright (Gregd2) Member Username: Gregd2 Post Number: 85 Registered: 06-2002 |
I think what Blue is getting at is that one driveshaft that is nine years older than another driveshaft has more miles and more wear and tear on it. Am I the only one getting this? By the way, my 96 is u-joint in the rear. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1831 Registered: 02-2002 |
The driveshaft in my 88 has nearly 100,000 fewer miles than the one in my 95. That in the 67 has even fewer miles than the 88. Try again. | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 403 Registered: 02-2002 |
but that is just in your case Paul. I would say on average, an older vehicle will have more miles (even more so if we are talking scrap yard shafts). And since drive shafts do twist and break, the increase in mileage on an older shaft may have decreased it's strength. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 84 Registered: 04-2003 |
Greg is the only Bright one  | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 85 Registered: 04-2003 |
OK Robbie snuck in there too! Paul's "splitting hairs" point is valid too | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1834 Registered: 02-2002 |
I don't even remember where I got my front driveshaft on my Disco, much less what year it is,nor how many miles it has on it. The rear driveshaft (only the second one, not like the front where I'm on number three) was torn up pretty badly when I got it (thanx Matt!). the one it replaced was the original and it had thrown its balancing weights off. The rear driveshaft I have with universals on both ends, I similarly don't know the age, mileage, nor anything else about its lineage. I'm curious as to what you are basing your comment about boneyard driveshafts on as many vehicles in boneyards are there as a result of crashes, etc., rather than being worn out. The advantage of replacing a roto-flex drivesahft with a real one far outweighs any fears as to the age of a freakin' piece of pipe. We are putting new universals in this shaft, aren't we? BTW-my 88 chevy truck had 98K on it when it was junked, my 92 Blazer had 196K on it when it was sold off. Both had the original driveshafts, just as my '83 flat-bed has, and it has more than 200K miles on it. It is a piece of steel, not a piece of Tiffany jewelry. To make things worse, it is 1930s technology. Let's not spend any more than we must, and also, let us worry about more important things, like the universals we are putting into this driveshaft. | ||
| Greg Bright (Gregd2) Member Username: Gregd2 Post Number: 87 Registered: 06-2002 |
Paul, Well I guess I wouldn't want either one of your driveshafts then. But if I was going to a salvage yard and I had my choice of one driveshaft or another one that was nine years older, I know which one I would pick. Blue, Never heard that one before..... | ||
| Greg Bright (Gregd2) Member Username: Gregd2 Post Number: 88 Registered: 06-2002 |
Paul, Sorry I posted right as you did. I was referring to the age of the u-joints in the shaft not just the shaft itself. Sorry for the confusion, and I agree with you, if you're going to change out the u-joints, the shaft itself doesn't make much difference. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1835 Registered: 02-2002 |
I was talking with a client the other day suggesting that he replace his universal joints. He seemed surprised I would suggest such a thing as he only had 88K on them... I can't blame you for not wanting my driveshafts, I don't want them, but the place I had to make me new ones decided that it was open season on my stepson. A front driveshaft seems to only last on my truck for a year at the most-the splines wear out very quickly for some reason. Universals seem to get destroyed (with visible wear and play) in about 20K miles. Something about lift and wheeling seems to do them in. Yes, time for double cardons-someday. | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 404 Registered: 02-2002 |
but we have still seen driveshafts twist and break, ala Slade's CrewCab (yeah, I lurk the pirate board at times). And my comment based on a scrap yard is that if you saw a 98 Disco in a scrap yard, and an 88 Rangie, you really think that Rangie has been sitting there unmolested for the past 10 years? Most Land Rovers that make it to the scrap heap are scavenged so quick by us Cheap Bastards that there is nothing left after it has been in the yard for more than a year. (now this observation is in terms of Land Rovers, not chevys or fords). So I would assume (hate doing that but) that the 98 and 88 were probably on the road up till about the same time before they were sent to heap and therefore the 88 has probably wracked up more miles. Whooo - yes a generalization, but one to think about if you order an 88 drive shaft over a 98. But you are right too, new uj's would be the most important part of that equation. man, not sure if I have ever posted that much. time to go home i think. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 868 Registered: 09-2002 |
Blue, do i get it right - you put that driveshaft in and didn't bother to change the u-joints? | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 87 Registered: 04-2003 |
yep, uj's were fine. That 98 had what, less than 30k miles? That's the reason I went with that shaft vs, oh.....say, a 1988 shaft. Which was, of course, my whole point. Incidentally, the front uj's on my '96 are still in pretty good shape, too. But they'll get replaced, along with the rears, as part of the soon-to-come 100k birthday celebration. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 869 Registered: 09-2002 |
my d1's closing in to 135k, and the u-joints are in a good shape. however, this particular one was laying in dirt for quite some time, and i had to clean it up before i decided it fit to haul off. | ||
| Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason) On Probation Username: Jason Post Number: 537 Registered: 04-2002 |
My '83 has about 20K more miles on it than my '95...what's the half-life of steel anyway? | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 499 Registered: 08-2002 |
I have heard that it is best to replace ujoints on older drive shafts, but you really need to look at them to determine if they need it (are you going to rust a salvage yard on making this call). If you use a standard LR drive shaft ujoints are expensive (unless salvaged again). So I am going with GBR front and rear. Peter: The last time I replaced my roto, there was barely any rubber left in the driveshaft bushing. This means that the driveshaft would be flopping around the centerin pin as much as the roto allows it to. The bushing is there for a reaon and it it is toast it needs to be replaced and it really is a PITA POS. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 501 Registered: 08-2002 |
Oh yeah. Any tricks to get the centering pin out are appreciated. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 873 Registered: 09-2002 |
talk to Blue. he's a pro at removing the peg. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1837 Registered: 02-2002 |
I get called a cheap fuck for not taking advantage of a discount on Snap-On tools, and Blue puts boneyard universals in his truck? LOL! NAPA joints are ~$25/ea. Advance Autozone, $7.95. I'm a cheap fuck? I call it cheap insurance. | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 222 Registered: 02-2002 |
Paul, I just bought two Napa ujoints for $35 total about a month ago. Brian, My brother and I ripped our rotoflex driveshafts out recently. This is one way of removing the centering peg: Find a bolt that fits the thread of the centering peg. Weld this onto a piece of rod about a foot long. Weld a small plate on the bottom of the rod. Thread this into the peg and hammer away. When we did this we had the third member out to swap carriers, which made it much easier than trying do do it when underneath the vehicle. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 502 Registered: 08-2002 |
Mike, The same could be accomplished with a slide hammer. I believe. I will likely resort to this if necessary, but would prefer a way to press it out. Brian |
