| Author | Message | ||
     Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 96 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hey guys - I have read the tech and searched the archives regarding using a cruise control switch with a fog light cover for my new hella switch on my DII. I managed to wire the lights up alright (without shorting too many fuses LOL) and just want to make sure I put the wires in the right slots on the switch. As far as I can tell, pin 1 = switch power from high beams, pin 2 = not sure what to connect here, pin 3 = leave free, pin 4 = contact back to relay, pin 5 = ground for switch. What do I connect up to pin 2? I would like to be able to maintain the on/off light feature of the switch but I am sure I am missing something. Any other advice? Jay | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 99 Registered: 10-2002 |
Anyone got any suggestions? Jay | ||
| Chris Browne (Chris_browne) Member Username: Chris_browne Post Number: 223 Registered: 02-2003 |
Probably the "nightlight" for the switch. | ||
| Brent Fox (Bfox) Member Username: Bfox Post Number: 86 Registered: 10-2002 |
I think Chris is right; it's for the interior lighting if I'm not mistaken. I think there are some diagrams in the tech section. | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1285 Registered: 04-2002 |
No, you will not use all of the pins Jason. You only need 4 pins for this to work. On my writeup in the tech section, there is a diagram showing the pin input needed. I have 4 switches in my binnacle wired this way and they work great. | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1286 Registered: 04-2002 |
Pin 1 = The place you tap for power to trigger your relay. In other words, for roof lights, I prefer my running lights so that I won't accidentally leave the roof lights on during the day (could use battery for roof light only operation though), for driving use the high beam wire, and for fogs use the low beam wire. This way your lights only work when that trigger wire is powered. Pin 2 - I used the running lights. This is what powers the light in your switch. You could get creative and dig into the wiring of your dimmer switch if you want these lights to dim, but it's not necessary in my opinion, and the running light tap works well. Pin 3 = Not used Pin 4 = Out to the relay Pin 5 = Ground | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1287 Registered: 04-2002 |
In my case, I wired everything to the running light circuit for ease of wiring. My fogs, driving, roof and rear lights are all wired with a tap from the running light circuit to trigger the relay. Also, I used the running light circuit to power the light in the switch. So, Pins 1 and 2 on all 5 of my switches pull from one heavy guage wire tapped into the running light circuit. I didn't imagine my truck making any extremely deep water crossings as it is gas without a snorkle for one thing, and because it is new. I'm not putting myself into a position of a wet/muddy interior. So for me, I didn't see a need to run the roof lights without at least the running light circuit turned on. This might not make sense for everyone but for me it made sense. Plus, putting your lights on the running light circuit, you have a built in failsafe for leaving them on by accident. With my hella 4k's on the roof with white covers, I may not notice if they get accidentally turned on during the day, but by being on the running light circuit, I get a reminder tone to turn the lights off upon exiting the vehicle, which would also kill the aux. lights. Hope some of this helps. Greg | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 101 Registered: 10-2002 |
Greg - That is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a ton. I currently have the lights wired on the Hella switch to the high beams. I think when I wire up the factory binnacle switch I will draw off the running lights as you suggest. So you simply ran the wires for pins 1 and 2 from the switch to the plug on the back of one of the running lights? The other question I have is how to attach the wires into the plug itself. Did you pull out the male ends from the white socket of the switch and crimp on new clips to the aux wires or simply cut, | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1290 Registered: 04-2002 |
Well, I'm not sure what "white socket" you are talking about Jason. I managed to buy a used binnacle from a wrecked truck, with all the switches and pigtails still attached. I was able to steal 4 pigtails from that and simply soldier my new wires onto the old pigtails to use. On the fifth one, I used some female connectors that were just small enough to fit into the plug. I got this idea from Paul Morgan, and he can probably give you the connector size. It worked well also. You have to take care not to let the pins touch, and to make sure they are securely attached, but it works just fine. Regarding pins 1 & 2, that is basically correct. I took one heavier gauge wire from the drivers side running light (simply pulled light out, disconnected the running light plug, figured out which was the positive feed, then spliced into it. I cut and soldered, but you could simply use a tap in crimp connector). I ran this wire up to the area under the dash, and then did another set of soldering and connecting small wires to go to each pin. Remember, this is only powering the small light in the switch, and just enough power to trip the relay. This wire is not actually powering the light, so you don't need a huge current source like you would to power the 100w hella. If anyone else has pointers or thinks my info. is not accurate or appropriate, please jump in. Paul............... Got those female connector sizes? | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1291 Registered: 04-2002 |
Oh yes, by law I believe in some states, if not all, you are required to run fog lights in conjunction with low beams, and driving lights in conjunction with high beams. I didn't do this, and mine are all tied to the running lights. This way, if running my roof only lights, I only have to have the running lights on. Most times, you will have them on at night anyway to see inside the truck, so it didn't seem like a problem to me. I can still run without my headlights on if I need to encounter water. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 102 Registered: 10-2002 |
Greg - Thanks for the info bud. One final question. The switch that was sent to me did not include the white socket that the switch plugs into (where the wires are attached). This makes it very difficult to attach the wires to the switch because the pins are very small and there are no pigtails to splice to. Since I do not have any front fogs anymore, can i simply cut the wires off the original front fog socket and solder on the wires for the new lights into the pins as you describe. In other words, if i simply tape off the ends of the original wires leading to that socket and leave them behind the dash will there likely be any problems ie/ ECU faults, shorts etc? Jay | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 405 Registered: 02-2002 |
for my DI with stock fog light switch with hella fogs, female connector size is .110" to the pins. couldn't find them in any local store and actually had to order a package online for a few bucks. | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1292 Registered: 04-2002 |
JASON - DON'T CUT THE FACTORY PIGTAIL. That is my advice and opinion. It probably won't cause any problem if cut and secured one wire at a time and without creating a ground with your cutter, but I still wouldn't do it. Especially if you are still under warranty. Look for a package of the .110 female connectors. Paul Morgan and I both found them. I can't remember now if it was Pep Boys or NAPA, but they are out there. Also, you could look around for a vehicle being parted out and try to buy the pigtails from them as I did. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 103 Registered: 10-2002 |
OK thanks guys. I called the wrecker to see if he can find me a socket with pigtails. If not I will search around Dweb to see if any are available. Jay | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1293 Registered: 04-2002 |
They are reasonably tough to find, and as far as I know, no one has found an aftermarket supply of them. LR doesn't sell the pigtails by themselves. The conveniently only sell the entire wiring harness, so that's not a viable option. Easiest bet, unless you luck up and find some used, is just make them with the female connectors. They are small enough to stay on securely. Once they are all attached and inserted, simply do some magic with your electrical tape to gather the wires together, and to pull them towards the switch and they should be just fine. Once the thing is inserted in the dash, you aren't going to be moving it anyway. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 104 Registered: 10-2002 |
I gather the .110 clips are small enough that they will not touch together in the rear of the switch. If that is the case, it should be easy to put it together once I get a set of the clips. Jay | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1295 Registered: 04-2002 |
Yep, they are small, and have a plastic cover over the crip part, which will keep them separated. Mine have been on the single switch now for 10 months or so without problem. Paul has them on three switches without problem. Take your time, do it right and you'll be fine. | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1695 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jason, Being anal, I shrink wrapped every female connector prior to fitting it into the back on the switch. Go to Napa or Radio Shack and they will have hit. Paul | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1296 Registered: 04-2002 |
Good point Paul. I didn't know you did that. Now you've got me wondering if I did, but I don't think I did. That is the way to go though using the female connectors, as the whole outside is protected then. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 105 Registered: 10-2002 |
Sweet - Thanks a lot for your help guys. I think the hella wiring harness is 18 gauge. I gather that either 18 or 16 should both work fine for all this splicing? Jay | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1297 Registered: 04-2002 |
Yeah, I would run like a 10 or 12 guage down to the running light wire, and then splice in your smaller wires for pins 1 & 2. I don't think these circuits pull too much power. Being the Anal wire guy that I am, I ran 12 guage for everything. I even ran a 1/0 battery wire to a 100amp fuse block, then ran a connection from that to a distribution block and have all my 12 guage wires connecting to that. While it looks okay, and with the amount of solder used, it will be there as long as my truck runs, I'm not happy with it because I'm a fricken perfectionist that never gets happy with stuff, but alas I'm learning to live with it. LOL  | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 106 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hahah - Right now the wire from my relay to the switch has been spliced with electrical tape (twice) to the 5 watt lamp wire from the hella fog lamp which I removed b/c my light does not have that bulb and I needed the length to get to my dash. With my electrical know-how it is a good thing I keep the fire extinguisher close by LOL. I appreciate your guys help. Not to hijack my own post but how what hardware did you use to mount that Hi-lift Greg. I went to pick up some 1/2 inch bolts but the shop only carried carriage and cap ends. How long of a bolt did you need to accomodate the washers, loc nuts and wing nuts etc? Jay | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1298 Registered: 04-2002 |
Jay, You're scaring me with your wiring there. Get those connections properly done. Don't want your rover burning up when that tape falls off. I found those at Lowes. Initially I was using some flange head bolts in 3/8" x 3". I used that with nuts and washers as spacers to get the jack up off the hood. Then used a washer, lock washer and wing nut to tighten it. I couldn't find bolts with threads all the way down other than these. I used all stainless except for the bolt. To keep the bolt fresh, I regularly applied a spray like WD40. I didn't have any rust or corrosion except for on the trim tab where the bolt/nut have worn the paint away. I actually inquired today though about getting some mounts for my roof rack, as I just never feel all that comfortable tooling down the road at 55mph with that jack up there. One hard bump and it may be in the truck with me. At least up on the roof, it's not coming in my truck. Food for thought anyway. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 107 Registered: 10-2002 |
Good point about wearing that lift as a mouthpiece if you hit a big bump. I don't have a rack yet and generally only have it out for wheeling but I am worried about braining my dog or myself with it in the back of the truck. I had thought about removing the rear seats and making a plywood floor cut to fit the rear of the truck. Then I could drill on some mount brackets or straps to hold it down with the shovel. Maybe that is a better way to go. Freaky thinking of that thing shooting up the bonnet at ya. Jay | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 108 Registered: 10-2002 |
Good point. Wouldn't want to end up wearing that lift as a mouthpiece if you hit a big bump. I don't have a rack yet and generally only have it out for wheeling but I am worried about braining my dog or myself with it in the back of the truck. I had thought about removing the rear seats and making a plywood floor cut to fit the rear of the truck. Then I could drill on some mount brackets or straps to hold it down with the shovel. Maybe that is a better way to go. Freaky thinking of that thing shooting up the bonnet at ya. Jay | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 371 Registered: 04-2002 |
I was able to find (from what I'm told) was the plug to the heated windscreen in my dash. It fits the aux light switches perfectly. I used it as a pigtail for my 4ks on the brush bar. As for my rack lights, I used the smallest double female connectors I could find. They worked fine. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 110 Registered: 10-2002 |
Spent a few hours searching for all the parts (especially the .110 connectors) and a few more putting the wiring all together, but I just finished the job and it works great. Wired the lights up to the parking bulb and replaced all my splices with solder and shrink wrap. Even wrapped the lines in conduit. All in all it looks pretty good and works perfectly. Thanks again for all your help guys. Now if I could only figure out where to buy 2 gauge power cable for my winch LOL. Jay | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1698 Registered: 02-2002 |
Hey Jason, If Greg ever wires anything again, buy stock in Solder and West Marine. Because If a Nuclear Bomb explodes in the back of his D2, his Hella Wire harness connections will still be intact. Paul | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1300 Registered: 04-2002 |
LOL......... Too much Paul........ Too funny. | ||
| Jason Lord (Ronan) Member Username: Ronan Post Number: 111 Registered: 10-2002 |
Hahaha |
