| Author | Message | ||
     Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 202 Registered: 09-2002 |
I know this has been visited, I have a 90 RR with 128000 miles. Just want to know which you have put on, why and how you liked them | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 923 Registered: 02-2002 |
genuine....... mike w | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 76 Registered: 03-2003 |
Try doing a search on the Disco board. This has been covered many times! | ||
| Bill Ross (Billr) Member Username: Billr Post Number: 74 Registered: 11-2002 |
Red Polybush on a '93 LWB with OME conversion. They work great. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Senior Member Username: Billb Post Number: 842 Registered: 02-2002 |
Stick with genuine rubber bushings - as noted above - discussed much in the past. Bill | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) New Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 21 Registered: 04-2003 |
Unless you have a compelling reason to do otherwise, the genuine rubber is best. If you are going to use any polyurethane bushings buy the Ironman set. If you make lots of custom suspension mods, get both sets. | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 259 Registered: 10-2002 |
I've had no probs with poly bushes. I believe they are alot more durable than OEM rubber. My $.02 | ||
| Larry Grubbs (Larryg) Member Username: Larryg Post Number: 233 Registered: 03-2002 |
Geniune. | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 881 Registered: 09-2002 |
genuine | ||
| John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 216 Registered: 03-2003 |
Genuine. | ||
| Ian Kreidich (Ian95rrc) Member Username: Ian95rrc Post Number: 52 Registered: 03-2003 |
Just did my Radius Arms with Genuine. | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 395 Registered: 09-2002 |
Genuine. http://www.landroverstuff.com/images/omepos.jpg That's an OME poly after articulation. | ||
| Paul T. Schram (Paulschram) Senior Member Username: Paulschram Post Number: 1852 Registered: 02-2002 |
Are all of the poly bushes made by the same company and privately labeled, or are there variations in the composition of the various bushings. I see the OME's are yellow while "Polybush" and "Ironman" are available in red nd blue I'm needing new bushings (only needed them for two years) and really don't want to have to fight with pressing the new bushings in (I have a press). While there have always been those who will proclaim a secret advantage to genuine over aftermarket, there seems to be an increase of folks having problems with poly bushings. With new radius arm bushings, my front-end rebuild will be nearly complete. Peace, Paul | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 851 Registered: 02-2002 |
Urethane is just the latest buzzword for "bling" factor - unless you are truly racing or similar and need a very "tight" and reactive suspension. The softer durometer urethane bushes are a joke - a compromise for those who don't want a tooth rattling ride and equivalent durometer (hardness) to rubber - so....stick with genuine. Urethane does not do well in constantly loaded applications (it will compression set much quicker than rubber) - thought it is better in rebound, abrasion and oil resistance. For those who say they are easier to install - that to is a joke - yes they are, but at the expense of the suspension working as designed. Finally, urethane is a cast product - not a vulcanized material like rubber. When rubber is vulcanized to metal (ie: radius arm, trailing arm, panhard rod, and A-arm bushes) it is truly boonded - chemically. With urethane, it is merely poured into the metal shells and delaminates soon after being put into service (relative to rubber) - therefore, more suspension slop down the road. I've seen blue, red, yellow, every damn color out there and all of them extrude in the tougher, loaded applications. Now, I do have to be honest and say that I like the urethane better than the rubber bushings that come "pin" shocks (Disco 1), even though it is a constantly loaded application - but I think mainly that is because the Bilstein rubber bushings are utter garbage - the OEM items seem to last much longer. Bill | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 82 Registered: 03-2003 |
Yeah, what he said! I use Genuine. | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 204 Registered: 09-2002 |
Ali why the answer above you tell me to check the archives. I know it has been visited, it is just nice to get an updated version. More miles, more trails, more opinions. I was 50/50, now I know I am getting genuine. Thats what I love about this board. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 49 Registered: 05-2003 |
blue polys. The only 1st person report of failing polys I've heard is from the use of OFFSET front radius arm bushings on a lifted RR. They will correct the camber, but are not a good long term solution. | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 50 Registered: 05-2003 |
But, when I got my truck, the originals were completely gone. So I don't know what a classic RR would be like with Genuine. |
