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Silly_me (Silly_me)
New Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 01:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hello all! I'm tinkering with the idea of [i]finally[/i] getting a LR Disco. It's been 5 years since I tinkered with this idea last so I'm a bit rusty.

My first look was a 1997 SE7 that I just finished driving.

The body seems to be in great shape. No rust on brush guard even. Some rust on the from at the back of the truck though.

This vehicle has 52K miles on it, just to give you an idea.

Now, a few points that are of concern for me. I know that if it's not leaking it's empty, but I need to know what leaks are the nasty ones and what leaks are the "I can live with it" ones. This landie had it's left (driver's) side coated with oil including the lower tie rods etc. The oil was clean so it's still leaking there (much to the chagrin of the salesman that shook my hand afterwards :D )

When braking, at a complete stop the brake pedal traveled all the way to the floor. Is this normal for this truck?

Also, I know that they are supposed to have a whiny transmission but I need to confirm that is the noise I heard. To me it sounded like tyre whine (my quickie test drive did not exceed 50mph). It was not terrible but if it's a problem I'd like to know.

I've read elsewhere to avoid the 97s if possible. Don't really have specifics on that. But the truck was clean and looked good aside from those little bits.

Any info would be GREATLY appreciated. I plan on looking at a 1998 Disco this weekend as well. Anything I should really look out for?
 

Land Rover Certified Used A**hole (Jason)
On Probation
Username: Jason

Post Number: 542
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Whoa...brake pedal completely to the floor???

I say you take two steps back, yell, "Hey...there's Elvis!!!" And when the salesman turns to look, run away!!!

Oil leaks are common...regarding the "cleanliness" of the oil...1) it's likely a fresh leak, and 2) it's leaking as it is sitting there, as dust, dirt, and grime from driving the vehicle hasn't gummed it up. Likely coming from the front cover...a fix you can repair yourself if you have the time, or $$ if you do not.

The brakes sound like a serious issue. If you are very interested in this vehicle, persuade the dealer to fix the front cover seal and brakes at the current asking price of the vehicle. Otherwise, there are nicer Discovery's out there.
 

Blue (Blue)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Blue

Post Number: 99
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 02:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

what's the asking price?

for sale at Land Rover dealership or other dealership?

if other, does the salesman or anyone at the dealership have any idea what a Land Rover is, or do they think Toyota makes it? If they're ignorant, then be extra careful.

powerwash / wipe the underside to see where the leak is coming from, then have them fix it (properly)

check the power steering box, ps lines, & ps reservoir for leaks (located right next to the air intake horn on driver's side). Does the steering box make any odd noises when you turn the wheels?

the brakes obviously need to be inspected. Check the brake fluid reservoir (located high up near rear of engine bay on driver's side). Also check pads & see if pads are paper thin and caliper cylinders are extended. New pads & a good bleed may fix the mushy pedal.

where did you say the rear rust is?

open rear doors and check for rust at the spot where the C-pillar meets the wheel well.

check for rust around alpine windows.

1997 with 52k isn't bad at all (if price is right)
 

Silly_me (Silly_me)
New Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 02:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Okay, thanks! There are still a lot more out there as I doubt the dealer would be willing to fix the problems on the truck (it needs new rubber as well).

Is the "whine" that I heard normal? I'm going to make a check list of things to look for as I shop about. I also need to figure out how to shift into low gear as that would really be a bummer to buy a truck and find out it doesn't work the next day :D

Thanks!
 

Silly_me (Silly_me)
New Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just saw your post blue, the truck's price is pretty good. They just marked it down to $14k. I've another lead on a 98 for the same price (but none of the extra goodies the SE7 has).

This truck was on a non-dealer lot and the salesman had no idea what it was. He thought it was a rangie at first. They also do not have any records on it as it was bought at auction. Every car I look at seems to be bought at auction.

By memory I remember the rust (it seemed light) to be at the tail end of the frame (or what I thought was the frame). The door hinges showed no rust (I've seen a lot with that problem). I didn't look at the C-pillar but will if I consider this truck.

 

Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
Senior Member
Username: Paulschram

Post Number: 1844
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 03:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Auction trucks might just be off-lease trucks.

The leakage on the driver's side is almost certainly power steering fluid. Could be as simple as swapping some clamps and cutting a few inches off the hose end. Could also be trannie fluid fromt he cooler lines. Likely not a big deal, but something that needs to be fixed before it gets worse.

Also look for rust around the Alpine Windows.

As for the whine, my truck doesn't whine (I do all of the whining), but it does Clunk when shifting.

The brake pedal going to the floor has me very worried. While I laughed at Jason's comment, I agree with him that unless they are going to heavily discount this vehicle, or fix it, this ain't the one.
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 2178
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 03:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yeh not all auction vehicles are the red headed step children of vehicles. some are rentals, leases, executive leases, repos, etc. and depending on what company the auction employs to prep and repair the vehicles they can be shit or great. some allow $750 per vehicle to be auction ready and some alloy $2000. just gotta find the good ones.
 

Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover)
Member
Username: Denverrover

Post Number: 78
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I think it is safe to say that this dealer isn't going to fix any of the leaking problems. Where else is it leaking?? Could the wine be coming from the rear end?? Sounds like it hasn't been very well maintained. Buyer beware, my personal preference is to buy from a private owner who liked their Disco & had it lovingly (pricingly) dealer maintained. But it from a lady who never took it off-road, point out all the leaks/problems & she will come down on the price. That's how I got mine :-)
 

Silly_me (Silly_me)
New Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the info. I've got two to three more on the hit list for this weekend.

A question about the PS fluid. It is hydraullic fluid correct? What colour is the stock PS fluid?

Also, is the V8 an interference engine? What are the intervals for the T-belt replacement?

TIA
 

George Collins (Zinhead)
New Member
Username: Zinhead

Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2001
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 04:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

T-Belt??? You must have wandered in here from the Vortex. The engines are based on an old Olds design with a timing chain.

I would also check the VIN with a dealer to see what the oil change interval was. The years you are looking at are very susceptible to oil related issues like sludging and exhaust valve sticking. If the truck has sticking vavles (common reason for selling), your talking $2K to have it fixed.

Rust on the frame should just be surface stuff that a wire brush and Krylon will take care of. The rust to look out for is at the juncture between the aluminum and steel panels. This includes the bottom of the doors and tailgate, junction between the top of the rear fenderwell and base of the C-pillar, and the alpine roofs. Beware that LRNA will not honor the rust warrenty unless you have had it serviced at a dealer.

As for leaking, they all leak. If you are concerned about leaking, buy a 99 with a little bit of extended warrenty left and have the dealer chase down all the drips. Otherwise, fixing most leaks is not cost effective.
 

Silly_me (Silly_me)
New Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 7
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 07:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

>>>T-Belt??? You must have wandered in here from the Vortex. The engines are based on an old Olds design with a timing chain.<<<

LOL :p I've got Audi's on the mind :D

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