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Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 67
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What is the difference between the front drive shaft from a D1 vs. a D2?

 

Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
Member
Username: Revor

Post Number: 209
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The front shaft on a D2 is a dual cardon style CV joint... This means that it uses two u joints in conjunction with a special connector joint between them at one end to provide a constant velocity joint... The D1 shaft just has a u joint at each end... Also the bolt pattern and flange on the T case end (with the DC joint) is bigger... To interchange you will need an adaptor or the flange from a D2... VERY WORTH THE TROUBLE>>
 

Kris Arnott (Krisarnott)
New Member
Username: Krisarnott

Post Number: 22
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, July 14, 2003 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Are the lengths the same? Would changing to a DII shaft reduce vibes on a lifted DI? Is this a cost effective way to go compared to a custom drive shaft?

-Kris
 

Frank Rafka (Mongosd2)
Member
Username: Mongosd2

Post Number: 67
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

the stock D2 front shaft is a POS. I had one self destruct and take out the transmission,t-case and both cats...I now have a custom built double cardon shaft thats fully greaseable...no vibes, running 285/75's with tt's and 4.11 gears...custom shaft was cheaper than the stock from Land Rover...
 

Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 68
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 06:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

thanks for the info. Just this past weekend I install a set of OME HD shocks and springs. The truck drives differrently now. I am not sure if the front shaft is vibrating. It may have a very slight vibe to it. Time will tell. I amy be able to get a D2 shaft from a junker.

 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Senior Member
Username: Offroaddisco

Post Number: 1401
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Frank, Are you saying the D2 shaft is a POS or is the non-servicable U-Joints a POS. I can understand how the stock joints are worthless as I just pulled mine out but why is the stock shaft itself bad?
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 226
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brad, Do you have a D1 with a rotoflex? When I did my OME HD springs, I had no vibes for a while. After a offroad trip, I got some major vibes. I was positive it was the front shaft. But when sitting under the truck trying to pull the shaft out I looked towards the rear. It looked like there was some junk hanging from the rear driveshaft / pinion area. It was the cord from the rotoflex as it was self-destructing. This was a rotoflex that had only about 8K miles on it.

You might want to take a look at the roto if you have one. Problems only get worse for the rotoflex as the angles increase.
 

Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 69
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike

Good point. I replaced my roto flex about a year ago. IT was cracked and failing. I will take a look at it. I am sure it will fail sooner or later. I will convert it at that piont. Now that the rig has about a 2" lift all around over the my old sagging shocks & springs, the ride is some waht louder and I feel slight vibes but I can not remember it the vibes were there before or not. Or since the shock are much stiffer than before, I am feeling the road??? I will have to monitor the situation and go from there. Can a rear shaft from a late D1 or D2 fit my 96 D1?

 

Frank Rafka (Mongosd2)
Member
Username: Mongosd2

Post Number: 68
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Al...The whole things a POS...you still have a cardon joint that you can't grease...
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 227
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 07:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brad:

Yes, a D1 ujoint driveshaft will fit. I used a older RR driveshaft. Read http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion/index.htm.

No vibes anymore.

If you want to make sure that it is the rotoflex, just pull the rear shaft, lock the CDL and go for a test ride.
 

Brad Noviski (Bradnoviski)
Member
Username: Bradnoviski

Post Number: 70
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2003 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike

Thanks
 

Greg Bright (Gregd2)
Member
Username: Gregd2

Post Number: 89
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Frank,
The driveshaft isn't a POS. You just gotta replace the u-joints out for serviceable ones.
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 512
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Weight your options of an HD driveshaft vs a range rover shaft for the rear or D2 shaft for the front. If you are buying new go with an HD shaft, something like what is available from GBR.

I just added a 3" RTE lift (springs). Got wander and vibes with it. Added new bushings and new RTE radius arms, wander is much better. Adding the bushings/radius arms, then I got vibes. Added GBR front, less vibes. Added GBR rear shaft (in place of rotoflex) nearly no vibes. Still have one at high speed when slowing (slowing from 75 MPH) and at 40 when hard on th throttle. It is definitely better and likely some of this will get fixed with more fixes to engine mounts other bushings and swivel pin pre-load adjustment(front DS wheel wobbles about 1mm).

Brian
 

Frank Rafka (Mongosd2)
Member
Username: Mongosd2

Post Number: 69
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey Greg, you still have to deal with cardon joint...It was cheaper and easier to just replace the whole thing. The guys made it out of spicer parts...I posted pics a while back of the new shaft...

frank

 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 896
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 16, 2003 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Frank,

there's a void in my education - are LR driveshaft u-joints the same as 1310, or they are smaller?

peter
 

Keith Kreutzer (Revor)
Member
Username: Revor

Post Number: 212
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, July 18, 2003 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Peter while they seem to be "pretty close" i don't think they are exactly the same... I put a D2 shaft in our D1 running a 4" lift and most the vibes went away... The shaft and joint seem to be pretty robust and for the $100 i paid for the flange and the shaft it has survived well... I've trashed many a 1310 yoke but never a joint in my J**p that has a rather serious 401 in it (you like those :-) ) and 37's... Never in my life have i seen these anemic 3.9l engines break anything but stock CV's/axles and dry joints...Even old series trucks... (same joint i think)
 

Mike Bauer (Mikeb)
Member
Username: Mikeb

Post Number: 62
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, July 21, 2003 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

There is a recall on the D2 front driveshaft. Seems the heat from the exhaust cooks out all of the lubricant causing the DC to explode. If you have a D1 driveshaft, consider having a local driveshaft shop fab you up a new DC driveshaft.

Thanks,
Mike B.
 

Paul D. Morgan (V22guy)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: V22guy

Post Number: 1736
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 05:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mike, Is this recall official?

 

Peter J. Kelly (Pjkbrit)
New Member
Username: Pjkbrit

Post Number: 27
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Tuesday, July 22, 2003 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yep....I'd like to know too... I have a 99 Disco 2 and whilst I have religiously greased the shafts every oil change, I'm nervous about the DC joint now I'm out of warranty....
 

Cabzjam1 (Cabzjam1)
New Member
Username: Cabzjam1

Post Number: 10
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 05:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm worried too. 400miles left on 00' DII warranty and have what I consider driveline noise. What's up. Going to dealer for this problem Monday.
 

Erik G. Burrows (Erik)
Senior Member
Username: Erik

Post Number: 253
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Wednesday, July 23, 2003 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just called Mission Viejo, Ca Land Rover. Service guy there says the recall noted by Mike is for the '03 Rangie.

Not that the DII's don't have front drive shaft issues. My favorite (other than the exploding thing) is how the AC condensation drips onto it, rusting the crap out of it.

Guess this is all just another reason to keep the shaft greasy.
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Senior Member
Username: Offroaddisco

Post Number: 1416
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Frank, So you're saying your centering pin (center socket joint) has a greasable fitting? My understanding is all aftermarket DC shafts also have a non-greasable centering kit. You can rebuild the factory shaft with greasable u-joints and all the joints on mine are spicer. Do you have a picture of your DC?
 

BW (Bwallace35)
Member
Username: Bwallace35

Post Number: 73
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

This is good stuff. I'd like to add that my D2's DC joint is currently hanging on by a thread. Close inspection revealed that the DC joint was dry as a bone.

What really pissed me off was the fact that my D2 had just been in for service (like within a month). I called the steelership up and complained about the dry DC joint. Other than the apology for shitty service, which most will not own up to, he did confirm that they've had a small number of DC's fail. This angered me even more of course since that known fact should have prompted them to inspect it closer (or period).
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Senior Member
Username: Offroaddisco

Post Number: 1418
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

BW, if your u-joint on the DC is dry I would not drive the vehicle unless your still under warranty and want a new transmission too. Get that non-serviceable u-joint replaced or at least get a replacement driveshaft from the dealer if you can get it under warranty. If you get a replacement shaft from the dealer just remember that in 40-50k miles you might need to replace the u-joints anyway.
 

BW (Bwallace35)
Member
Username: Bwallace35

Post Number: 74
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2003 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

That's good advice Al. Funny thing is, I drove from Arizona to Louisiana like that. (Had no choice). The brit is parked underneath a dozen live oaks right now at my parents. It's scheduled for a flat bed when I return to the states.

Believe it or not, the u-joint is about 95% severed. I plan on taking pictures when they yank it out. The brit only has about 34K on it. My pride was a little down when I dropped it off with my pop. I really wanted my pop to use it for hunting while I was away, but the bloody bloke is just parked for a year now. Pop didn't care, he was just amazed that I got that far with it in that condition.

No matter how mad I get about this hunk of metal, my pop reminds me that no matter what I drive, as long as I drive it as hard as I do, it's bound to leak and break. It's the design and oversized components that impresses him. He thinks its a keeper.

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