| Author | Message | ||
     Greg French (Gregfrench) Senior Member Username: Gregfrench Post Number: 511 Registered: 11-2002 |
I am about to put on a set of RTE 3" springs and OME N115 and N44's. Is there anything else I should be aware of? I searched the archives and found something about vibrations, castor correction, and other suspension/steering-related things that I have no idea about. Will I be ok with just the shocks and springs or do I need to do a bunch of other corrections. Please let me know what is reccommended and what is essential and why so I can spend the money and do it right the first time. From what I have read, some people have problems once lifted and some do not. Thanks | ||
| Tom V (Cozmo) Member Username: Cozmo Post Number: 171 Registered: 09-2002 |
Hey Greg sorry to cut in on your thread. I have a similar question how high can you go before you start having to make other mods to compinsate for lifting your rig? I would search the archives but I'm ADHD and archive searchs are difficult to finish. | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 230 Registered: 02-2002 |
Greg, If you read a little more you will find that most people have problems with the 3" lift, whereas most do not have problems with the 2" lift. For example, I have the OME HD lift. No vibrations at all. The only problem I ran into was that the Rotoflex was wearing out quick, so I swapped it out for a conventional ujoint shaft. My brother on the other hand, has the RTE 3" lift and has had problems with vibrations. He had to put in a new set of castor corrected radius arms to realign his front pinion angle, new front driveshaft, new rear trailing links, new rear driveshaft. All this costs over $1000. That being said, I'm not sure that the vibrations are completely gone. "Please let me know what is reccommended and what is essential and why so I can spend the money and do it right the first time." You wont know exactly what you will need until you throw the springs in. Even then, it can be difficult to get it all sorted out. Why are you buying the 3" lift instead of the 2"? Instead of spending the money on all of the parts needed to correct vibrations, spend about $1000 & get a Detroit & HD axles. The 2" rig w/ Detroit will be much more capable than the 3" w/ open rear diff. That's just my thought process. | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2391 Registered: 02-2002 |
Greg, I'll second Mike's suggestion. Stick w/ 2" of spring. If you go to an even larger tire and need more lift, like a 255/85, then use body lift to go further. 2" is enough for 235/85, which is sensible. Like Mike said, look at a locker/axles/gears before going for more tire or lift.... IMHO, FWIW.... -L | ||
| Luke Tolson (Luke4696) New Member Username: Luke4696 Post Number: 30 Registered: 06-2003 |
I just installed the OME MD 2" lift on my Disco II and 265/75 BFG MT/KM's and have loved the results so far (2 weeks, 500 highway miles or so). My question is, what is the "rotoflex" that wore out quickly? What are the symptons and how easy is the upgrade to the conventional U-Joint shaft? Regards, -Luke | ||
| Greg French (Gregfrench) Senior Member Username: Gregfrench Post Number: 517 Registered: 11-2002 |
I got a deal on the springs is why I went for the 3" Thanks for all the info. I guess if I end up spending a bunce of money, it wasn't a great deal. What exactly is a rotoflex, and why do I hear so much about them going bad? | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 231 Registered: 02-2002 |
The rotoflex is the rubber ring at the end of your rear driveshaft that replaces a conventional ujoint. The reason that they go bad once you lift the truck is that the rotoflex will have to flex more because of the increased angle of the shaft in relation to the pinion. Symptoms of it going bad: vibrations! You can look for cracks around the bolts on the Rotoflex to see if its beginning to fail. For the upgrade to a conventional shaft read: http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion/index.htm. The hardest part is removing the centering peg. Also, make sure the torque on the pinion nut is correct. |
