| Author | Message | ||
     Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 377 Registered: 04-2002 |
My friend has a 99D2 and little mechanical ability. I believe that he has an exhaust leak where the manifold attaches to the engine (that's a guess). If I'm correct, how easy is this to repair? Any tips or tricks? Things to look out for? He is rescently unemployed and has no money to make repairs at the dealer so he's asked that I help him i.e. do the job. Thanks for the help. | ||
| John Cronin (Jec) Member Username: Jec Post Number: 73 Registered: 02-2003 |
I can speak to a 95 D1; don't know what might be different on a D2. First, make sure the leak is at the manifold attachment, and not at the more likely place, which is where the manifold attaches to the downpipe. Or, in our case, the flange on the downpipe had a bad weld, and later we had cracks in one of the downpipes that had to be welded. Also, it could be a crack in the manifold itself (we've cracked both of ours); look carefully when the engine is cold and hence the crack is the largest. Try using a piece of hose as a stethoscope to listen to all these areas and try to isolate the source of the sound. Soak the nuts holding the manifold to the downpipe with spray-type penetrating oil the night before to loosen them up. They're a bear to get at - lots of extensions on your ratchet. You'll need a new manifold to downpipe gasket, as well as the manifold to engine gasket (which may be multiple pieces - it's two pieces on a D1) if you end up taking the manifold off. If you don't have a nearby dealer for emergency pieces, probably should get 3 new studs and nuts for the manifold to downpipe connection - they are prone to shearing off (in fact, before you do anything, look to see if any are missing - that could cause the noise; so could a loose manifold to engine bolt or two; might want to check them for tightness before tearing the truck apart). If one shears, worst case is having to drill it out if there isn't enough length left to put a pair of vice grips on. Worst case scenario is to have a manifold-to-engine bolt shear, but it hasn't happened to us yet. Put antisieze on the manifold bolts before you reinstall them, and the downpipe studs. Back to your original question - it's really not that bad a job - just wear gloves to protect your knuckles. If you've got time, you can save by getting the gaskets and studs from Roverconnection.com - the studs aren't listed, but just add a message to your order and they will sell you those also. I hope this helps, and that the D2 has not changed significantly in this department from the D1 as far as ease or difficulty. Good luck! And I hope it's maybe something simple like a loose or missing downpipe bolt! John | ||
| Max Thomason (Lrmax) Member Username: Lrmax Post Number: 205 Registered: 11-2002 |
The D1 and D2 exhaust manifolds are similar if not the same. In general, the main problem is getting to them with all of the extra crap all around it. As mentioned before, just have a general look and see if you notice anything small and stupid that could be causing the problem. Like a loose bolt, etc. It is a very do-able job but plan on having a lot of time. Don't forget your 12 pt socket!! The gaskets are metal gaskets and shouldn't cost a whole lot. The bolts shouldn't sheer. I've never seen one sheer but anything is possible. You should be able to handle it. Although the purchase of a Haynes manual would be worth the 20 bucks or so (do they make a Haynes for d2s?). Max T. Good luck! | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 385 Registered: 04-2002 |
Thanks for the info all. Does anyone happen to know the exact socket size that would be needed? Would I need a deeper socket or extended socket? I don't want to drive to his place and not have everything. I have the gasket but didn't get the bolts. Can just any bolt work providing that its the right size or do I need LR Special bolts? LOL!! | ||
| John Cronin (Jec) Member Username: Jec Post Number: 75 Registered: 02-2003 |
Jack: Here's some more info in a simultaneous thread on the Rovers North board (LOL - it's leaky manifold season!): http://catalog.roversnorth.com/wwwboard/messrr3/2825.html Don't recall the socket sizes, and the Rover is gone until the end of the week, so can't help you there. You might need a deep socket for the downpipe nuts (which as I recall were in the 13 or 15mm or 1/2 or 9/16 inch range), but I don't remember needing one for the manifold-to-engine bolts (you will, however, need some extensions and a breaker bar). As for the studs and nuts I recommended you have just in case, I'll also say that on the first manifold I was able to get suitable metric studs and nuts at NAPA; it was on the second manifold that I ordered genuine parts. Also, if you haven't gotten a manual, the torque for the manifold-to-engine bolts is 15 ft-lbs, and don't forget to bend the retaining ears back in place. John | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 386 Registered: 04-2002 |
Thanks John. Now, if it will stop raining. | ||
| Mike Pelechaty (Tonga) Member Username: Tonga Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2003 |
Jack, you read my mind, this thread will come in handy for me as well - freak'in leaky Rover! Oh, thank god for Paul T. Schram and his knowledge - too bad he is no longer with us. | ||
| Joseph Bilyk (Denverrover) Member Username: Denverrover Post Number: 84 Registered: 02-2003 |
What happened to Paul Schram?? Did he get banned. Ouch. | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 388 Registered: 04-2002 |
Fixed! One bolt was loose! Runs like a champ! | ||
| John Cronin (Jec) Member Username: Jec Post Number: 76 Registered: 02-2003 |
I love it when it's something simple - congratulations! |
