| Author | Message | ||
     Chris Rud (Rudrover) New Member Username: Rudrover Post Number: 3 Registered: 07-2003 |
Hey gang, Ok after I installed my OME HD lift I had absolutely no vibration, yesterday all the sudden I started getting vibration right around 2k RPM. I know that the stock driveshafts don't like lifts and tend to vibrate after a suspension lift so I guess a new driveshaft is an option. I was also thinking of installing the Safari Guard 3 Link system to get the drive line AND castor angles back to stock. I'm just wondering if this would cure the problem as well? If it would I like the idea of the 3 link system since I would hopefully get rid of the vibration and add some suspension travel at the same time. So who out there has had driveline vibration and got rid of it...and how did you get it done? Thanks, _________________ Chris Rud 1992 Range Rover Classic | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 897 Registered: 02-2002 |
Chris, I'd start with some basic things first - how old are the stock u-joints? - If suspect at all - start with replacing all 4 of them. Your lift will make u-joints go bad faster, so if you had one or more that was already on the edge - the lift probably did it in. You didn't say how much lift you have - but OME HD without spacers is 2+" - so should not be too bad to solve without going to expensive stuff like CV DS and $G 3-link. Bill | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 64 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have the OME HD lift on a '90 RR 165K - no vibration. Get under there and yank the front shaft around. The bad joint will be obvious. It was prolly ready to go out soon, anyway. | ||
| Chris Rud (Rudrover) New Member Username: Rudrover Post Number: 4 Registered: 07-2003 |
Ok I'm going to check my U joints. I did grease them up yesterday...they were overdue, and the vibration cleared up a bit. Since I had no vibration at first I bet it just might be a bad u joint or 2. I do have 172,000 miles so they might all need replacement. I'll update soon. Chris 1992 Range Rover Classic | ||
| David Woo (Davidwoo) New Member Username: Davidwoo Post Number: 23 Registered: 01-2003 |
I've also heard of folks using a double carden shaft to get rid of the vibration: anyone tried that yet? DW | ||
| Michael Harris (Hsvrangie) New Member Username: Hsvrangie Post Number: 11 Registered: 09-2002 |
Double cardan shaft requires that the diff pinion to be pointing at the centre line on the d/cardan joint. Fit new unis first. 50mm lift should not cause major vibe issues. Castor should be the bigger issue. RR has 3 degees castor std, every half inch lift you loose 1 degree. Michael. | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 413 Registered: 09-2002 |
I just put a DC front shaft from a DII on my 93 RRC. I have a 3" lift with no caster correction and was getting vibes from the stock shaft. The difference is night and day, I had the truck up to 80mph this weekend with no vibes - I'm happy. | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) New Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 26 Registered: 04-2003 |
Just want to confirm what Steve posted. The best oportunity for reducing DS vibration is going to be by using a DC DS. The DiscoveryII front driveshaft is much better at this than all those yahoo brands, even though they look simular. Difference: The LR driveshaft is balanced on a machine that actually simulates the way it operates on the truck. Disadvantage of DisII front DS: You have to custom make the TC adapter. Also it would probably be easier the buy a new factory balanced DS, than to replace u-joints and try to get it rebalanced again. Randall | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 416 Registered: 09-2002 |
Interesting points Randall. I'm not sure that the DII DC DS is as strong as those 'yahoo' brands but it's certainly balanced. I think there is a way around the custom adapter issue. When I had the LT built, I specified a DII flange. I was checking out the t-case end today and there is definitely no adapter used, the shaft is bolted directly on to the flange a la DII. I did read elsewhere that the DC u-joints are not serviceable on the DII shaft, but that GBR has a rebuild kit which replaces the 2 rear u-joints with serviceable joints. That maybe the way to go down the road as it were. sc | ||
| Randall Smith (Mr_smith) New Member Username: Mr_smith Post Number: 27 Registered: 04-2003 |
Steve I never even thought about swapping output flanges on the transfer case. That would be best because the adapter really should be on the drive shaft when it gets balanced. The Borg Warner TC calls for a drive shaft which is 1.5" longer than the LT TC. So an aluminum spacer/adapter is not unreasonable for a Range Rover with the Borg Warner. My advice: Use the least amount of lift required to clear your tires. Install the DiscoII drive shaft. Get some radius arms to correct the pinion and castor angles. Then resist the urge to lift it some more. Randall | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 86 Registered: 03-2003 |
" Then resist the urge to lift it some more. " - Randall Yeah, right :-) | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 421 Registered: 09-2002 |
The only thing resisting my urge to lift are the radius arm bushings  |
