| Author | Message | ||
     Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 950 Registered: 08-2002 |
I did a search and came up empty. Someone posted a while back a site that gives all of the fault code meanings. Anyone know what that site was? I'm getting a reader and need to be able to interpret the codes. Thanks  | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1784 Registered: 02-2002 |
I think Leslie has it. Email him Greg. How's your D2? | ||
| Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 951 Registered: 08-2002 |
It's not feeling well.  Valves are sticking(?). Anyway, I'm done w/ the dealer. Quoted me over $2500 for a valve job that they already did 30K miles ago! I said "No thanks, I'll take my chances". It's running fine, but threw a code on my way back from the mountains Sunday. This way I'll be able to diagnose it myself. | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 42 Registered: 02-2003 |
Did they replace the heads or just clean the valves? I just had mine done and they just replaced the heads altogether. I asked the likelyhood of this occuring again and they said "we haven't seen one come back yet". Just wondering if this is something I have to worry about in the future. Thanks and good luck. I think it sucks. I am telling you this would make a great class action lawsuit. Too many people are having this problem and it continues in the DIIs - mine is a DII - 46K. | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 135 Registered: 04-2003 |
Try these: http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_obd2.asp http://www.disco2.com/tech/v8ems/faultcodes.phtml http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/ http://www.flatratetech.com/pub34.htm | ||
| Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 953 Registered: 08-2002 |
Bluesman, they couldn't tell me(or didn't WANT to tell me), but I suspect they just cleaned them. Rig was in and out in a day. Joey, thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated. | ||
| Jim Reynolds (4x4xfar) Member Username: 4x4xfar Post Number: 79 Registered: 05-2003 |
Greg, what is it that makes the valves stick, sludge oil?? or falty design?? Thanks.Jim | ||
| Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 954 Registered: 08-2002 |
From what I've been told, the valve guides don't allow enough oil for lubrication. The friction causes the valve stems to heat up, and then begin sticking. Carbon build-up compounds the problem. I've been told that the proper fix is to put a bronze sleeve in the guides. | ||
| Jim Reynolds (4x4xfar) Member Username: 4x4xfar Post Number: 80 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thank you! | ||
| bluesman (Hywy61) Member Username: Hywy61 Post Number: 43 Registered: 02-2003 |
Greg, I just remembered the dealer told me they used to just clean them and on some install carbon cutting valve guides. My rig was in there three days. Unfortunately i think yours were just cleaned if they did it that quickly. Can't they offer you a discount since you just had that done 30K ago? could always try Land Rover North America although i suspect that will get you nowhere. Let us know what happens. In my case it was wierd. I had a misfire on a cyclinder and had to abandon the car 300 miles from home as i was away for the weekend. Dealer there fixed it and flatbeded it to my house -all covered under warranty. Cause: bad spark plug wire. I suspect though it was the valves to begin with and 1st dealer misdiagnosed. Then about 2 weeks later i take it in at 46k to make sure everything is done before warranty expiration and tell them it hesitates ever so slightly at highway speeds. No warning lights though. Boom - they say sticking valves. I notice on the invoice they have the same codes as listed before. Now wondering what will go bad next........ | ||
| Greg Davis (Gregdavis) Senior Member Username: Gregdavis Post Number: 956 Registered: 08-2002 |
Well, they wouldn't budge, and I have no faith in them now anyway. Originally the SES light came on, so I took it in. They said sticking valve. Dropped it off in the AM and drove it home that night. That was at 32K miles. Fast-forward to Oct. '02. Driving home from MAR and the SES light goes off. Couple of days later, it goes out. I'm at the dealer one day and I mention it and they say "probably the valves". Driving home this weekend doing around 70mph and the SES light comes on. I'm scheduled for my 60K service Mon AM, so I mention it to them. Keep in mind that all this time no hesitation, no skipping, engine's running fine. They say, valves are sticking, that will be $2700 please. Plus, there are some LEV pipes that typically break when removing the heads. If they break, it's another $700. I say "No thanks". Supposedly if the SES light is flashing it's a serious problem. Otherwise, it was just a little stick, and everything's fine. So for now, I'll monitor it and take my chances. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 921 Registered: 02-2002 |
Greg - this is from an old post here - no personal experience - but sounds pretty promising. The original poster seemed to know his shit about engines: :Land Rover 4.0 GEMS motors are not the only pushrod V8s prone to this problem. Most of the EFI V8s used by the various sterndrive manufacturers have had this exact same problem. Their answer was/is not valve jobs but an array of proprietary products designed to vaporize in the combustion process and dissolve the carbon deposits. So when my 4.0SE started first experiencing stuck valve symptoms last year I decided to follow their lead and adapt their process to my Rover. The basic idea is the same with all of the products get the motor up to operating temperature and spray a pint or so of cleaner into the intake tract while the motor is idling. You let it soak overnight and test, repeat if necessary. The best product of the bunch is OMC "Engine Tuner" now also sold as Systematched "Engine Tuner" since OMC went broke and Bombardier bought the assets. If you are going to try this on your rover there are some caveats: You must remove the Y pipe. These products are not safe for Oxygen sensors or Catalytic converters. You must introduce the product downstream of the Mass airflow sensor. You should not do this directly on your driveway, the dissolved carbonblack that sprays out of the exhaust manifolds stains. You will need to be able to reset OBD2 codes the ECU will notice the Oxygen sensors are not responding and trip the check engine light. You must change your oil after you are done. Some product is going to seep past your rings while it is soaking and while it is safe for all seals it is a poor lubricant. This process will cost you a weekend and $50-100 provided you don't break any exhaust studs I have been directly involved in treating four 4.0 liter powered Rovers all with complete success. Also update your ECU if the dealer says you can otherwise you are going to be right back where you started. The sterndrive manufacturers also produce preventative products the best deal of which seems to be Yamaha marine "Ring Free" now "Ring and Valve Free" on some packages. This product is certifed as Oxygen sensor and Catalytic converter friendly for their new motors that incorporate both. " Bill |
