Nervous about possible Sticky Valve p... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through August 06, 2003 » Nervous about possible Sticky Valve problem... « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Kevin Fedyk (Kovert)
Member
Username: Kovert

Post Number: 66
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 07:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Alright, driving down the Dulles Toll Road, I stomped on the gas a little to merge after a toll and began to notice that I hit about 65 mph then the truck began to shake a bit and didn't seem to want to go. It did this for a few seconds, then I started to let off the gas, the shaking went away, and off I went. No check engine lights, no continued vibration. Now I did buy this truck at 73K, now about 76K, and never noticed this before and I have done the same thing a few times.

Well I start reading about the sticky valve problem, seems like it could be the case, and I figured my drive back to NY from VA I would have a few opportunites to recreate the problem. (BTW - my wife noticed this one other time before me)

Figuring this thing was dirty (knowing there is no way to clean these damn exhaust valves), I would try that BG44K stuff since I saw it at the local mechanic down the street. $20 later, I put in the tank, did a few small trips around and the next day, on my way 400 miles. Well early in the trip, I notice this damn pig as always does not have any acceleration uphill. I go to punch it a bit, same damn vibration and power loss, but once again no check engine light. About 100 miles later and another tank fill - up, I have to do the same to pass a truck. Now I'm a little hesitant to really stomp the gas so I ease it a bit more, reach about 70 mph uphill (never did that) and without the vibration..

What I'm wondering is this definitely the sticky valve problem? I don't get the lights that most people seem to get, but I don't seem to have much power (hard to gauge though since I've only had it about 3K), but my gas mileage seems on par with others if not slightly better. I never have the problem in normal driving, it idles slightly rough (exhaust does seem a bit deeper), nothing unusual for a truck (but once again, I didn't drive this when it was new). Only time I experience this is when I completely stomp the thing. Any ideas???

I did plan on getting the 2" OME HD lift, but if I need to have the valves done, I might want to wait. Only some much $$$ to go around, especially when you HAVE to use the dealer to do the lift because you live in a damn apt and they will ticket you for working on your car on the grounds.

Thanks all, and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

-Kevin
 

M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
Senior Member
Username: Lrover94

Post Number: 986
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 08:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

when was the last time you had a complete tune?

mike w
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Senior Member
Username: Offroaddisco

Post Number: 1447
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Kevin, how high did the RPM get? As for the lift, if you have to have someone else do it look for a shop to do it and save yourself some money.
 

Kevin Fedyk (Kovert)
Member
Username: Kovert

Post Number: 69
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well when I bought the truck, the put new wires and plugs. I just changed the air filter, and I still need to change the fuel filter. Other than that, not much that I know of, but the 67,500 service was done at the dealer I bought it from.

The RPM's get above 3K when the stuttering happened. After that if I kept it smooth in the low 3K's it didn't do it. Like I said, it only seems to be real prevalent if I stomp the gas hard. Which I don't think I should be able to do in this truck anyway :-)
 

Al Oliveira (Offroaddisco)
Senior Member
Username: Offroaddisco

Post Number: 1448
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

No need to worry about replacing the fuel filter on the D2 unless you also plan on replacing the fuel pump since you can't do just the fuel filter (must have been one of the days the LR people were on crack when designing the D2). From my experience with my '99 D2 and it's valves I would say you're not experiencing valve issues.
 

Greg French (Gregfrench)
Senior Member
Username: Gregfrench

Post Number: 540
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Solution...Don't stomp on it. This is a truck. A very heavy truck. A very heavy, underpowered truck. Take your time and enjoy the ride.

As for the stuttering, it could be the VSS? Just a thought. I would need to know more symptoms, but it is an alternate idea to the valve problem.
 

Robert Sublett (Rubisco98)
Senior Member
Username: Rubisco98

Post Number: 977
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 02, 2003 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I had the same problem with my '96 with the vibes and power loss. I replaced plugs and wires. Problem solved for very short amount of time. Pulled the expensive bosch platinum +4 plugs and replaced with crappy cheapo plugs. Problem has not returned. Are you driving a D1 or D2?
 

Gilbert Leo (Corokia)
New Member
Username: Corokia

Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 03, 2003 - 01:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry to hijack the thread Kevin. I am having the similar probs.93 V8i Auto wouldn't rev pass 2000rpms and will shake or misfire aroung 80 km/h in D.But if I downshift to 3 manually, no probs will rev to 3000rpm or more and go past 80 km/h .Anything below 80km/h drives like a dream.Thought about wheel balancing but no shakes in 3 and to 100km/h or even higher.
Any ideas guys - O2 sensors, VSS, HT leads/plugs, stuffed Cats or worst case senario ******* etc? Did noticed that the Drive belt is a bit sloppy, could this cause the problem. All input much appreaciated.

Cheers.
Gil
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 71
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 03, 2003 - 06:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Gil,
You in Oz? Km/h jargon has Yanks confused. Screw the bloody French metrics.

anyway, I had similar symptoms whe I bought my '90 RR and was driving it home from L.A.
It ran fine on the flats, but once I started to climb out of the L.A. basin, it would shake and misfire. I downshifted to 3rd and it seemed to run much better at higher RPM's. Above 3K RPM's.
It was the distributor and/or the vacuum advance unit. After I had a rebuilt dizzy and new vac. advance unit, it ran fine.
 

Gilbert Leo (Corokia)
New Member
Username: Corokia

Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Eric,

Thanks for that input. Nope from NZ, sorry about the kms.Will have a peep at those items you mentioned this weekend.Thanks again, you deserve a cold one mate(beer).

Cheers,
Gil
 

Kevin Fedyk (Kovert)
Member
Username: Kovert

Post Number: 70
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sorry to not respond but it is vacation time :-)...

First off, this is a 99 D1, not a D2.

I have read through the searches and did find as some have said, information regarding the VSS. Is this something I can change quite easily, and how much would this part cost?

Looking at the wires, I did notice something but I'm not sure if it is normal. Are half of the wires gray and the other half black? I never looked at a new set (they are lucas BTW). I could possibly swap them out with the magnecor's and a new set of plugs just in case, but like I said, the dealer did say they put new ones on.

About that lift, I would have no problem doing it. Did the opposite on my BMW 325i (lowered). it's just these damn apartment buildings and their rules. I need to find a shop in N. VA that will do it since the mechanic down the street won't. Told me they will only put on stock parts.


 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2437
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If the wires are different-colored, then someone in the past changed some problematic wires and left the others... I really would suggest changing out the wires to a complete fresh set. Ask the dealer if they changed ALL the wires, or just the ones they thought were bad. Once you've got them on an even playing field, then you can proceed with diagnosis. (How often are you changing your oil? Using hi-test gas? Oh, change that fuel filter! Pronto! )

You need to find a Rover-friendly garage, sounds like.... good luck!

-L
 

Kevin Fedyk (Kovert)
Member
Username: Kovert

Post Number: 71
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Monday, August 04, 2003 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Exactly, the guy down the street is a nice guy with super late hours, but he doesn't seem to do what the customer's ask :-)

It is getting an oil change the second I get back to VA, still debating on whether or not to go synthetic. I will find a set of wires and plugs and try that. And get that fuel filter changed.

Last question. Is it normal for these engines to be piping hot after some use? Sometimes I feel as if I can't even open the hood after driving

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration