| Author | Message | ||
     Ben (Roverguy) New Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 26 Registered: 06-2003 |
My '91 RR is on it's 2nd A/C compressor. The first one died shortly after having the system recharged/converted to r134a. The clutch totally seized up on it, rendering it useless. I recently replaced the compressor with a good second hand unit. Once again, I had the dryer replaced and the system filled with r134a. This evening, after I finished doing some maintenance, I was running the engine for a while and decided to switch on the A/C. It cycled on and off fine a couple times, then the clutch started acting up. Instead of the usual audible "snap" followed by the clutch rapidly turning, it very slowly started to turn after being engaged. I watched it for a few more cycles until it actually got to the point where the clutch didn't even want to turn. I quickly shut it off when the compressor clutch started to smoke! Now, here comes the interesting part. I decided to take a closer look at the wiring connections that go to the compressor (2 red wires to 2 black wires on mine). The connections were all very dirty/gummed up. I cleaned the male side, but the female side of the connector is almost impossible to thoroughly clean, so I just cut off all the connectors (on both sides) and put on new ones. I started up the Rover and turned on the A/C. The first time the compressor clutch engaged, it seemed to be a much louder "snap", and the clutch rapidly started spinning without any visible binding like before. I watched it cycle over 20 times. Every time it operated perfectly! It looks quite possible that the fouled up connections were limiting the voltage sent to the electronic clutch mechanism, causing it to not engage properly or fully. I think there's a pretty good chance that this is what killed my first compressor, and nearly my second one. | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 91 Registered: 03-2003 |
Good find! Also, keep in mind that older compressors experience a much larger gap in the clutch. So if you remove one shim, this helps in the gap dept. Party on. | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) New Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 22 Registered: 07-2003 |
how do you remove the shims. i think i may be experiencing the same problem and will clean connectors this weekend.... | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) New Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 29 Registered: 06-2003 |
eduardo: To find out how to remove the shims, check THIS out. Looks like RR Classics used the "keyed shaft" type armature. The only problem I see is trying to get the clutch armature plate off without the special tool that uses the 3 holes on the armature to hold it in place. Anyone have any ideas? |
