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Tonym (Tonym)
New Member
Username: Tonym

Post Number: 21
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

2002 Discovery with 27,000 miles.

While having my tires rotated I discovered that my rear pads are worn to the point of needing immediate replacement.

I just called my local LR dealer and got an estimate for parts and labor rear brake pad replacement = $305.00 US.

What do you think about the price ?

And, can it be done at home, what's involved ?

Thanks all.
 

Leo (Leo_hallak)
Member
Username: Leo_hallak

Post Number: 113
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Breaks are very easy to do if you have minimal tools, jack and jack stand. check out

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/disco2brakes/

-Leo
 

Brent (Silly_me)
Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 46
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Holy crap $305! Buy a set of rear pads for $80 or so and do the change yourself. The only special tool you'll need is a brake caliper piston compressor which you can rent at autozone etc.

Seriously, for the first timer this job will take you no more than 30-40 minutes a side. It's that easy.
 

Tonym (Tonym)
New Member
Username: Tonym

Post Number: 22
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


That link is on the money thanks.

Is there a certain pad I should buy ?
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 2248
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

C clamp works the same as a piston compressor if you have one lying around.
 

Tonym (Tonym)
New Member
Username: Tonym

Post Number: 23
Registered: 03-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

While we're at it guys... is the 27k average for rear pads..?

What can I expect in front ?

PS: my local mechcanic gave me this pricing:

$190 parts and labor - if he gets the pads direct from LR

$135 parts and labor - if he gets the pads from an auto store
 

Leo (Leo_hallak)
Member
Username: Leo_hallak

Post Number: 114
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Remember how heavy the vehicle is Tony. I got my 99 Disco with 42k miles and they had ran the pads down and destroyed the rotors on the rear. So my first order was rotors and pads.. I got mine from WWW.Expeditionexchange.com , DBA golds and matching pads.. I like them..

-Leo
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 2249
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

there is no average. depends on your driving habits, style and type of pads/rotors. my rear pads lasted 45K and my original rotors on still on there with 88k on the clock.
 

Brent (Silly_me)
Member
Username: Silly_me

Post Number: 47
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

>>>C clamp works the same as a piston compressor if you have one lying around.<<<

Do the rear pistons on the Disco need to be twisted in as well or just compressed?
 

bluesman (Hywy61)
Member
Username: Hywy61

Post Number: 58
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Atlantic British - you can order the pads and have them shipped overnight if needed. Cost you about $200 total for all four wheels. Discountrovers.com(?) - nathan can get you cheaper
 

gp (Garrett)
Senior Member
Username: Garrett

Post Number: 2250
Registered: 10-2001
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

twisted? i didn't have to. they just compressed nicely straight back.
 

Bruce little (Blittle)
New Member
Username: Blittle

Post Number: 9
Registered: 03-2003
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm curious, is the procedure described in the first link the same for DI's. If so, it's certainly a useful link.

Best Regards
 

Steve Andrews (Sillybus)
Senior Member
Username: Sillybus

Post Number: 303
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 01:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Bruce - Its easier on the D1. There isn't anything that needs to be removed other than the pins, springs and pads on the D1. By that I mean the "housing covers" referred to in the EE guide. I have NO wrench experience and found it easy as pie.
 

Bill Ross (Billr)
Member
Username: Billr

Post Number: 84
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You only need to turn brake pistons while compressing them back into the caliper if the e-brake is activated thru the caliper. Since Rovers use the single, big whomping e-brake on the driveshaft,you only need to compress and a C-clamp works perfectly well for that.
 

todd slater (Toddslater)
Senior Member
Username: Toddslater

Post Number: 320
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 03:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

http://www.xkslandrover.com/pages1/specials3.htm

You'll be needing the rotors too...D2 are disposable.

Garrett...you must have a D1 to get that kind of distance out of your rotors.
 

John Moore (Jmoore)
Senior Member
Username: Jmoore

Post Number: 793
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just read John Lee's write up on EE. I thought with ABS vehicles, you supposed up open the bled screw to let out brake fluid when pushing the pistons back into the caliper.
 

todd slater (Toddslater)
Senior Member
Username: Toddslater

Post Number: 321
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, August 08, 2003 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

John,
I remember awhile back there was much hub bub regarding this. Proponents stating that by doing so you flat line the chance of pushing scale/crude/ etc...back into the abs pump thereby causing abs woes and/or failure. The other school and I am in this one, say thats just anal BS amoungst other things. I've done mine twice w/o issue. As long as your fluid is clean and flushed at reasonable intervals, there really should not be any crude etc...to worry about. My .02 on the subject.

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