| Author |
Message |
    
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 09:18 pm: | 
|
my friend' range rover has a siezed piston on each of the rear calipers. resulting in only one pad wearing at a time. i'm wondering if anyone has disassembled and rebuilt a caliper. any pointers or advice?
thanks
rob |
John C.
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 10:49 pm: |
|
I have Rob. No problems unless the inside of the caliper (where the piston is inserted) is too rusty. Pretty easy to do. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Monday, April 22, 2002 - 10:51 pm: |
|
ok, figured it was.. but haven't dug into it yet.
thx
rob |
Ron
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 12:37 am: |
|
Plan on replacing the pistons
Ron |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 10:18 am: |
|
Just did it this past weekend on RRC front calipers -
You may not need all new pistons, if the chrome is still good and not worn and there is no other corrosion, then they're OK.
Seal kits are only about $12 per caliper - seals are a bit fiddly to install, but just takes some time and patience.
Even if there is some corrosion in the bore - no worries - use a SS brush and remove it. The piston actually rides on the seals and not the caliper bore, so it does not have to be 100%.
Bill |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 10:20 am: |
|
Oh also - we didn't split the caliper halves -not sure what would be involved with that, but I'd imagine it would have to be perfect when going back together to create a seal.
Bill |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 12:47 pm: |
|
i dont think well need to split them either,, just get the pistons running true again.
so well need new pistons , they are badly gouged with some rust, and new seals.
thasnks
rob |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:15 pm: |
|
Whoa there Pokerob !
Prior post from you " badly gouged with some rust"..
New seals; and gouged cyl surface; and new pistons: adds up to "brake failure in waiting" !!!!!!!!
No matter where the vehicle is used, you are inviting disaster; I want to know what state to avoid driving in, if that's how you intend to cure seized brakes.
The craters you describe will abraid the new seals, they will tear, be serrated and the condition will manifest again. Did I say or imply that already ? Good.
How to do it safely?
Either have new cyl 'sleeves' made-stainless-to have pressed into the bore-matched to the piston spec, with the clearance necessary, or get better/perfect caliper housings. New would be best. Please do not put 'badly gouged' calipers back into your vehicle...cheers- doug james |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 04:37 pm: |
|
Doug - I wouldn't agree with reusing calipers if they are that bad either and didn't see in his post that they were that bad, but explain how pitted bores will affect the seals?
The seals are slotted into two grooves on the ID of the bore - they don't move. If new pistons are used (as Rob indicated) then the only thing sliding on the new seals are the walls of the new pistons. The pistons themselves do not contact the bore of the calipers. ??
Bill |
doug james (Dgj95lwb)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 05:08 pm: |
|
From the tone of the post, we have someone who has not done caliper rebuilds, or honing etc...
I always err on the side of thoroughness when it relates to brakes, and particularly when it is on the web. At a distance we can't see the extent of the degradation, and migration of corrosion.
I wanted to alert him to the mechanical effects of a poor surface 'anywhere' there. Fresh pistons are one thing and I wanted zero migration of rust to the bore. Rust often isn't so selective when in close proximity to other
host sites, adjoining. Just so he closely inspects it.. |
Rob Davison (Pokerob)
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 23, 2002 - 06:31 pm: |
|
i never said the cyl. walls were damaged. the term badly gouged is relative.
the breaks will be no worse than what they are now, and that is one side or the caliper works the other doesn't (per rear wheel). plus there are both front breaks and an e-brake. so no worries.
it's true i've never rebuilt calipers, but i have all the ability to do it, including a hammer and screew driver if the shit gets wise with me when i try to take it off.
again i live in PA and will truthfully be cutting every corner to save a dime.
rd |
JB
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 24, 2002 - 12:07 pm: |
|
For Gods sake man, don't abraid those seals or we are all doomed for sure {grin} My favorite tool for my rover is an old butter knife. I swear I use it more than anything else. That and JB weld and a big iron bar I call the Persuader. Let me know how the rebuild goes as I will probably be doing it soon, or just braking via only the seconday circuit for a while - that is still free... ;)
JB |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page