| Author | Message | ||
     Tim (Snowman) Senior Member Username: Snowman Post Number: 539 Registered: 12-2002 |
Upon starting the usual dash lights come on but the dash brake light stays on longer. It's generally 10-15 seconds or so. The braking is excellent at all speeds (almost too good). How long should this light stay on after you shift into drive? Any ideas? Thanks, Tim | ||
| John Booth (Jboothmtnbkr) New Member Username: Jboothmtnbkr Post Number: 15 Registered: 05-2003 |
10-15 secs is fine. The system is doing a brake test that it can't complete until you start moving. At least that's how mine seems to work. | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 231 Registered: 09-2002 |
same here, don't sweat it, it's fine. | ||
| Perrone Ford (Perroneford) Member Username: Perroneford Post Number: 199 Registered: 02-2003 |
The ABS system can't finish the brake test until you roll at 5mph. That is where your delay is. -P | ||
| Tim (Snowman) Senior Member Username: Snowman Post Number: 541 Registered: 12-2002 |
Got it, thanks for all the input. The last thing I need is an ABS problem. | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) New Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 38 Registered: 06-2003 |
Doesn't sound like Tim was talking about the amber "ABS" light. Perhaps he meant the red "brake" warning light? If so, it's normal for the red light to stay illuminated for 10 - 15 seconds or so when the Rover is started. Once the ABS pump builds up enough pressure, then the light will extinguish. I believe the manual states that you shouldn't drive until the red brake warning light is out. | ||
| Tim (Snowman) Senior Member Username: Snowman Post Number: 543 Registered: 12-2002 |
I was speaking of the red dash brake light. Also I don't always wait until it's out to shift into drive. If the system is building up pressure I would think heat would affect it's rate of "warm up". I believe it does take longer in the morning rather than after a short shutdown. | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 151 Registered: 10-2002 |
What happens when it doesn't shut off? | ||
| Ben (Roverguy) New Member Username: Roverguy Post Number: 40 Registered: 06-2003 |
If the red light doesn't go out, you're either low on brake fluid, or the ABS pump is most likely in need of replacement. | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 153 Registered: 10-2002 |
It is a non abs rover. 1987 RRC. | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) New Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 11 Registered: 06-2003 |
On an '87, there are two ways for the red brake light to come on. 1. The hand brake switch is on. This may or may not have any connection to the actual position of the brake lever itself. 2. The overtravel switch on the side of the master cylinder has been activated. This DOESN'T check fluid level. You can check this switch by pulling the connector off. If the light goes out, it, or the master cylinder, is your problem. Of the two, the master cylinder switch is easier to check. If it has been activated, the internal spring may not be strong enough to push is back and turn it off even if you correct the brake problem and bleed the brakes. The high quality Lucas product is made from nylon, which will swell with humidity and bind. If this switch has been activated, something is probably wrong with your brakes, so check pads, bleed, etc. I wouldn't advise just disconnecting the wire. Total brake failure is not fun. | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 154 Registered: 10-2002 |
Since I just replaced my brakes it sounds like the(if it is this)overtravel switch is stuck in the on position. I'll check that and see what happens. THX | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) New Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 12 Registered: 06-2003 |
When you bleed the brakes, you're supposed to back out the switch a couple of turns so it doesn't get activated. If you didn't do this, you may have toasted the switch. | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 155 Registered: 10-2002 |
oh oh | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 156 Registered: 10-2002 |
Done and problem corrected. Wierd thing was that I looked at a junked RRC 1989 and the sensor was different? Also-my shifter is hard to engage. I was told that this could be another defective sensor in the foot brake assembly. Is it the white one located above the brake light sensor? ans if it is is that the part that goes bad. | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) New Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 13 Registered: 06-2003 |
My shop manual says they changed the master cylinder in '89. Completely different manufacturer. On the shifter, take the trim off the top and lubricate the snot out of the linkage below. If you don't do this every so often, the whole thing will seize up. You do this by removing the trim piece from the top, backing out the large nut, and pulling the boot off. You'll see the linkage below. I use white lithium spray. Don't put the retaining nut back on too tight or it will freeze up the shift lock. |
