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Ted Bzdega (Tedb)
New Member
Username: Tedb

Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I am changing a diff on my rover.......Do you have to jack up and remove the wheels before pulling the axles on a 95 D1?
any horror stories out there or is it a pretty straight forward job??...thanks


 

Dave_lucas (Dave_lucas)
Senior Member
Username: Dave_lucas

Post Number: 406
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi Ted,

This should help,

http://www.discoweb.org/arbinstall/index.htm

Also, if you have steel wheels you may not have to remove the tires, but if you have alloys you will need to.

Have fun
 

Ted Bzdega (Tedb)
New Member
Username: Tedb

Post Number: 8
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

thanks....I have steel wheels so it makes it all easier...
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 245
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Sunday, August 17, 2003 - 09:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes, it's a straight forward job. The only part that is a pain is to break the seal holding the third member to the axle housing. Otherwise no problem.
 

Jack Quinlan (Jsq)
Senior Member
Username: Jsq

Post Number: 432
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

there's a good write up on the web about a diff install on a D90 if you search for "detroit install". only problem is that it's in italian and the translated page has a few spots which aren't quite english. seriously though, it's a very good write up and gives you more step by step than anything else I found.

use a bottle jack to break the seal on the third member.
post here if you hit any snags. it really isn't too hard.


IMHO i've found 5.5 to be the perfect backlash so far.
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 247
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you are swapping out carriers, just try to get the backlash to be the same as before assuming everything is ok. Every gearset is slightly different and will pattern differently. Just because .0055" works fine on one set of gears doesn't mean that the same will be true for another set.
 

Jack Quinlan (Jsq)
Senior Member
Username: Jsq

Post Number: 435
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 01:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

hmmmmm.

I'm certainly no expert but I would think that to some degree your R&P will wear and result in varying backlash. It shouldn't hurt to set them back a little closer. Sort of like zeroing your third member again while you have it apart. Just because your backlash was 7.8 when you pulled off the 3rd member couldn't it have been 6 when the original diff went in?

I mentioned 5.5 because I was told that between 5 and 7 was optimal for operation of the detroit in a D1. I set exactly 5.5 and I can hardly even hear my detroit ratchet. The thing performs perfectly and does not wind up or pop.

Again, I'm no expert so please educate me if I've led myself astray.
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 248
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The backlash of the R&P really has nothing to do with the operation of the Detroit. You could have the gears setup completely wrong and the Detroit could still perform fine. The unlocking mechanism of the Detroit is completely seperate from the R&P.

What is "zeroing your third member again while you have it apart"? You've lost me.
 

Jack Quinlan (Jsq)
Senior Member
Username: Jsq

Post Number: 437
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I meant bringing it back to spec in some fashion. As in "zeroing" a rifle scope. sorry, i know I can be a bit muddled.

I would think that if you had a lot of slop in the r&p it would sort of "whack" the detroit into action. eg. if you were at a complete stop and took off, the drive shaft would get a little more space to speed up from the gap in the r&P and transfer more sudden torque to the detroit. just a theory.

are you saying backlash doesn't matter at all? why is it measured in thousands of an inch if there is so much room for error? can it only affect the wear of the r&p?

please explain how backlash doesn't change over time with break-in / wear.
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 249
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm just saying that the backlash doesn't affect the functioning of the Detroit. The unlocking mechanism is driven by the difference in speed of the axles. For example, as you go around a turn the outer axle will travel faster than the inner causing the Detroit to unlock. When taking a tight turn at low speeds you should be able to hear the locker clicking. (some are louder than others)

Of course backlash matters, but it is only crucial in the sense of properly aligning the gears together. The actual value of the backlash isn't important, it's the way the gears contact each other that is important.

I never said that the backlash doesn't change over time, I just said that When swapping out carriers, try to set the backlash the same as before. This way, the gear set will be meshing the same as before.

Another note when setting up a diff is to measure the run out of the ring gear. Set up the dial indicator to be perpendicular to the ring gear. Then turn the ring gear and observe the dial indicator. There should only be .001-.002" run out. If there is more, take it off and clean where the ring gear and carrier meet. Also, try installing the ring gear in a different position on the carrier.

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