| Author | Message | ||
     Russell Turner (Max151258) New Member Username: Max151258 Post Number: 6 Registered: 03-2003 |
hi guys i have a d1 and earlier in the year i fitted an auxillary socket in the rear loadspace. it had to be permanent live to run the fridge overnite, so i wired it directly from the battery positive through a 20amp fuse to a 25amp switch through 27amp cable to the socket. although the switch i used is rated 25amp i`m now wondering if i should of gone through a relay, any opinions on this would be welcome and appreciated. thanks | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 158 Registered: 03-2003 |
The first question I would ask is, what is the amps being drawn by the fridge? As long as the fuse is rated less than the wire or switch you should be good to go. The worse thing that will happen if the amps drawn exceed 20 amps is you keep blowing fuses. | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) New Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 9 Registered: 06-2003 |
What's the startup load on the fridge? When an electric motor starts, it draws more than its rated current for a few seconds. This isn't enough to blow a fuse, which takes time to heat up and open, but can fry switch (or relay) contacts over time. A relay is nothing more than a high-current switch. If either is rated correctly, you should have no problem. | ||
| Russell Turner (Max151258) New Member Username: Max151258 Post Number: 7 Registered: 03-2003 |
not too sure about the start up load or what amps its drawing, i had the fridge given to me, and wouldn`t know how to find this info now. i figured since it was made to run from a cigar lighter, if i used cable, switch, and a fuse rated higher than the cigar socket i would be on the safe side. i`ll find out though to be sure, thanks for your help guys, appreciate it! |
