| Author | Message | ||
     Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 87 Registered: 05-2003 |
I was changing my rear brake pads and noticed that the left rotor was very wet with gear oil. I had been under the car 2 weeks ago and didn't notice a thing. It amazes me that with all the oil on the inside left rotor, there was no noticeable pull on the right side when I used the brakes. So I got the parts, and am ready to tackle the job. I remember reading somewhere that you need a special big-ass socket to take the hub nut out. Is this really necessary? couldn't I just use a big pipe wrench? | ||
| Jack Edwards (Olered) Senior Member Username: Olered Post Number: 410 Registered: 04-2002 |
Hub-nut tool? Do it right the first time and you will be happy. FWIW, they are not expensive. | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 88 Registered: 05-2003 |
Its not the cost, its the availability. I found an AB catalog and they have it for $20. I called Sears, Snap-on, and 5 different auto parts stores for a 2 1/16" socket, and they don't have it... so I ordered it from AB. Thanks for the reply. | ||
| M. K. Watson (Lrover94) Senior Member Username: Lrover94 Post Number: 1006 Registered: 02-2002 |
discountrover.com, nathan has the tool. mike w | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 213 Registered: 10-2002 |
It may be as simple as a leak coming from the abs sensor, i have this leak for over a year now and the bolts will never rust on that side, and the oil has never touched the rotor, so there it stays! Peter. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 975 Registered: 02-2002 |
Peter - a leak from the ABS sensor can be an indication of worse things going on (or not also) 1) Can just be a leaking oil seal that the sensor seats into - easy to fix 2) Can also be indication of a very worn top swivel pin bushing - recently had this on the wife's RRC - necessitated complete swivel housing teardown and replacement of upper bushing and top swivel pin. Bill | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 976 Registered: 02-2002 |
FYI - i realize this was a rear axle thread, but wasn't sure if you were talking about front or rear  Bill | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 94 Registered: 05-2003 |
OK, here's a dumb question.. I thought the ABS sensor was electrical/magnetic. It senses the speed of the wheel by being up against the grooved ring inside the hub (right?), so how can there be an oil leak there? Am I missing something? | ||
| eric johnson (Eric2) Member Username: Eric2 Post Number: 112 Registered: 05-2003 |
Jaime, Peteb really is a reporter for the N.Y. Times. So mis-stating facts is S.O.P. ;o) You missed nothing. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1001 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jaime, Sensor seats into an oil seal - so wherever there is a seal - it can fail and become a leak path. Bill | ||
| Bill Howell (Billh13) Member Username: Billh13 Post Number: 162 Registered: 03-2003 |
Jaime, before you fix the seal check the vent hose on the top of the axel. If it is clogged up it will cause pressure in the axel that will push the oil out. If this is clogged up it may fix the leak. I used the high speed method of blowing in the end of the hose to see if it was clogged. It does not taste good, but it works. The brass piece is a little tricky to clean out. It is acutally two pieces. The piece that attaches to the hose and the bolt. You have to seperate then to clean them. If you take the stem out don't crank it back on. Just snug it. I cranked mine and had to make a trip to the store for a new brass washer. Hope this helps. Bill | ||
| Sandy Grice (Apg) New Member Username: Apg Post Number: 23 Registered: 02-2003 |
OK...on the subject of hub oil seals.... When replacing these with the 'gen-u-wine' FTC4785G seals made by Corteco, one face of the seal is stamped "this side out". The seal on one wheel (the only one I've been into after 105,000 miles) was seemingly installed backwards at the factory if the seal is installed with the proper side facing outwards. But the thought occurs...what is "out"? Towards the 'outside' of the vehicle...or the outside of the hub...which is actually pointing "in". I replaced the seal they way that I would do it on a Series hub, and thus far, all is well. Enquiring minds want to know. Cheers | ||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 95 Registered: 05-2003 |
OK, Here's what I did this past weekend. I took out the oil breather on the axle and it was clogged big time, so I blew it clean with compressed air. However, since I had already bought the parts, and the leak was huge (the entire inside of the wheel, and inside surface of the brake rotor was coated with oil, I went ahead and replaced the seals. Here's my step by step procedure as I remember it: Jack up rear axle. Remove road wheel Remove brake pads Stick a broom handle between frame and body by wheelwell.. makes a convenient spot to hang brake calipers Unclip the brake line from the axle Tie the brake caliper to the broomstick so that it does'nt fall when you remove it. Unbolt the caliper with a 12 point metric socket and move to the side. I don't have the size handy, but you need a 12 point socket to remove the caliper mounting bolts (97 disco). Remove the bolts in the center of the hub.. these are the axle shaft bolts, and pull out the axle. Bend back the washer that keeps the outer hub nut from turning and remove it using a 2 1/16 socket. Remove the washer. Count how many threads are left between the inner hub nut and the end of the hub. This way when you replace it, you can get it back to the same spot. Pull off the hub with attached rotor. At this point, I cleaned the rotor and caliper with brake cleaning fluid. Remove the stub axle and mud shield by undoing the 6? bolts. That rounded cap sticking out through the face of the stub axle near the edge is the ABS sensor. I just wiped it clean. Remove the oil seal from the stub axle and replace... (the new one had a metal core with a rubber edge..is this a new design??) Note how far in the old one was before removing it so that you can put the new one in at the same depth. Re-mount the stub axle, gasket, and mud guard. I also got a new grease seal for the hub, so I replaced it and repacked the wheel bearings with grease. Put the hub back on the stub axle, carefully so that you don't mess up the grease seal. Mount the inside hub nut and make sure that you have the same number of threads showing on the stub axle as before Put the locking washer on so that the bent tab is on the side of the hub nut. Replace the outside hub nut, and bend the tab on locking washer towards you. Replace the axle shaft. you may need to wiggle it a little to get it to seat properly in the differential. Replace the Brake caliper and brake pads. Don't forget to clip the brake line back on to the rear axle and take the broom handle out. Mount the wheel, lower the truck, and we're done! |
