Fan clutch woes Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through August 23, 2003 » Fan clutch woes « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Jonathan Vaught (Gravelpup)
New Member
Username: Gravelpup

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My '95 Disco (130k miles) was showing a strange overheating pattern. I could drive it downtown, stop 'n' go, full AC, summertime in South Carolina, for 20 minutes, and the temp would not budge over halfway. After that, it would climb slowly up to red and sit there unless I cranked up the heater. I replaced the thermostat, checked the fan clutch, and found it spun pretty freely when the engine was overheated. So I replaced the clutch with a new one from xks.com, ~$200.

I took the Disco out for a day of errands with the wife. The fan clutch seemed to be working for the most part -- the gauge still read hotter than I'd like, but it stayed within the white arc and would cool down some when moving. I could hear the fan whooshing when it was engaged.

Since that day, though, it's gone back to its old tricks. The fan once again turns freely when the engine is hot. I'm assuming the new one I got is defective also. Is that common?
 

Will Weatherford (Wweatherford)
On Probation
Username: Wweatherford

Post Number: 81
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 10:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jon -

So you already replaced the fan clutch...it may not be the culprit...how is your coolant level (after t-stat change-out)? With the '95 ('96 and earlier), it was equipped with a faulty designed coolant expansion tank (BLACK)...recall was done by LR, due to the plastic seam splitting and leaking hot, expanding coolant steam, letting in air during cooling cycle, which would create air pockets in the cooling system. New tanks are CLEAR.

Next item may be blocked radiator - a common problem...get it rodded, not flushed at a local shop. Lots of buildup in our rads over the years...

Next item may be if you are loosing coolant into combustion, either by head gaskets, valley pan (intake) gasket or worse, cracked cylinder sleeves...

Plenty of discussions on overheating discos in the archives.

Some folks consider doing away with the clutch fan all together and installing/adapting an electric fan. You get back quite a bit of horsepower by removing that fan (@10hp). I am getting ready to do this - set it at @180F to come on. Summit Racing has one which some have used (Mustang 5.0L Flex-o-lite fan)
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/main.asp&ms=64

I offer all this cuz, man, I've been there, done that! Let us know how you do...

Ciao,
W2
99D1
 

Jonathan Vaught (Gravelpup)
New Member
Username: Gravelpup

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


With the '95 ('96 and earlier), it was equipped with a faulty designed coolant expansion tank (BLACK)...recall was done by LR, due to the plastic seam splitting and leaking hot, expanding coolant steam, letting in air during cooling cycle, which would create air pockets in the cooling system. New tanks are CLEAR.


Interesting. Mine has the black tank. It does lose a little coolant (which I've never really questioned, British vehicle and all) and I can hear air in the system sometimes when I shut off the engine.

I've never heard about that recall. Should the dealer replace the tank gratis?

I do believe the new fan clutch is faulty though, it's too easy to turn when hot and I can never hear it running (I do hear it running briefly when the engine is still cold). I had a fan clutch seize on a previous car and remember the whooshing noise well.
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 978
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If the clutch still spins freely when hot - it's bad...period.

Have XKS replace it.

Since you still have some overheating issues - don't even consider the conversion to an electric fan as you cannot come close to the CFM draw of an engine driven unit.

If radiator is original - it could be clogged partially at 130K miles. Replacing the thermostat, or at least checking it would help.

Bill
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1021
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Will, you'll regret replacing stock setup with electric fans. BTDT.
 

Will Weatherford (Wweatherford)
On Probation
Username: Wweatherford

Post Number: 82
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Peter - I understood that to be an acceptable upgrade.... do you have some history on this, I really would appreciate any thoughts!!!

Thanks,
W2
 

CALM (Gumarcel)
Senior Member
Username: Gumarcel

Post Number: 928
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The fan clutch to a 97 chevrolet 4.3 fits the Disco.
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1022
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 21, 2003 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Will, shortly after I bought my 89 RRC, the fan clutch seized and, since the shroud was missing and fan had two missing blades, I decided to discard this stuff and put a monster of an electric fan in. Some time later, I was driving with a 1900 cfm 16" fan and a 700cfm 11" fan working together with auxilliary pusher fans, and the temperature kept creeping up. Finally, I got rid of both electrics, and put in the stock fan, clutch, and shroud, and temperature went back to normal.
Perrone Ford warned me of this coming; also, I had prior negative experience with a jeep, but hoped the RRC's engine was small enough to be able to live with electrics.
 

Jonathan Vaught (Gravelpup)
New Member
Username: Gravelpup

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 08:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

...recall was done by LR, due to the plastic seam splitting and leaking hot, expanding coolant steam, letting in air during cooling cycle, which would create air pockets in the cooling system. New tanks are CLEAR.

Anyone have a link to more info about this recall? I haven't been able to find it anywhere else online... probably will call the dealer about it today though.

Thanks.
 

Will Weatherford (Wweatherford)
On Probation
Username: Wweatherford

Post Number: 84
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 09:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Jon -

Maybe not a recall...I oppolgize if I misspoke...I remember this being discussed before, though...At a minimum, LR redesigned the tank due to seam ruptures and have been a known culprit...the dealer may not just replace under a recall, but "recommend" its replacement...

I could have sworn it was a recall on the earlier designed expansion tank...I will also search for this
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 105
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

My '95 Disco (130k miles) was showing a strange overheating...
Dollars to doughnuts, it's your radiator. Mine is 3 years old and was already 10% plugged. Much more than that and the shop would not clean it, would have to get a new one.
 

Sandy Grice (Apg)
New Member
Username: Apg

Post Number: 22
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 12:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

As BillB said, if it spins freely (as in no resistance), then it is bad. Also, if it won't turn, it is toast. The fan should turn by hand with some resistance.

But it still could be the rad. Check real carefully between the fins. Last weekend I removed the grill to modify it for the winch instally. Must've removed an acre and a half of dried mud...why it *wasn't* overheating was a mystery....

Cheers
 

Bill Bettridge (Billb)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Billb

Post Number: 987
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sandy,

Funny you should mention that - I recently installed a winch that necessitated all kinds of cutting and moving of the trans cooler, etc -but anyway, I decided to pull the rad to make it easier and discovered it was fully 1/3 clogged with mud -and never a sign of overheating. Cleaned it all out and no difference - go figure..... :-)

Bill
 

Reed Cotton (Reedcotton)
Senior Member
Username: Reedcotton

Post Number: 268
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sandy-

"Also, if it won't turn, it is toast"

Right you are, but if that is the case, the engine should stay cool unless something else is wrong. Gas mileage may go up, and performance down with the fan turning all the time.

BTW - There is a definite sound increase when the fan comes on. (You may need the window down to hear it.) It's like going from stealth to fan-jet type of roar. (might be easier than trying to spin or stop a hot fan.)

-Reed
 

Tbow (Tbow)
Member
Username: Tbow

Post Number: 119
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Some tips on using an electric fan is that you need at least 3500 cfm to properly cool a small v-8 engine. When selecting an electric fan, you should always pick the largest diameter fan available with the required CFM. For example if the choice is either a 16" diameter with 1900 CFM or a 14" with 3500 CFM use the 14",

There are only a hand full of aftermarket fans out there with that kind of CFM. I haven't checked to see if they will fit, but Derale or Flexalite makes a variable 4000 CFM with twin 13" fans that would properly cool the LR engine.
 

Mud Man (Clarance)
Member
Username: Clarance

Post Number: 77
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 09:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The dual 13" won't fit the radiator. Those series of dual fans (35-5500 cfm) start at 28.5". A D2's radiators 25.5". How many CFM does a stock LR fan pull anyway?

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration