| Author | Message | ||
     Gregg Gallagher (Gregg_gallagher) New Member Username: Gregg_gallagher Post Number: 1 Registered: 08-2003 |
Looking for any information on troubleshooting the power rear windows on our 95' D1. Neither rear window will work. I've triple checked the window fuses (including checking all of the remaining fuses) and even swapped the front and rear switches and their connector plugs. The front windows work just fine even with the switches swapped but no luck with the rear windows. Any ideas? Thxs. Gregg | ||
| Andrew Maier (Newman) Member Username: Newman Post Number: 118 Registered: 04-2003 |
Have you looked in the tech section or archives? I know there's a tech article on rear window ECU repair... | ||
| MHawkins (Mhawkins) New Member Username: Mhawkins Post Number: 15 Registered: 07-2003 |
Gregg, Definitely take a look at the 'Rear Electric Window' article in the tech section, http://www.discoweb.org/window/index.htm . I had the same problem with my 96 and followed this article and it worked like a charm. To my suprise my board had the same failed solder point as the one in the article, must be pretty common. | ||
| John (Jroc) Member Username: Jroc Post Number: 150 Registered: 08-2002 |
I have the same problem on my '95 Disco and have yet to address it. How the hell did Don Herrero (the guy who wrote the tech article) figure this out??? Thanks guys | ||
| Gregg Gallagher (Gregg_gallagher) New Member Username: Gregg_gallagher Post Number: 2 Registered: 08-2003 |
Gentlemen: I'm happy to report that the repair was a success, at least in terms that the rear windows work just fine and I did not short out any other electronics;-) Don did a fine job on the tech info/photos for a 96' and the fix itself was as easy as a bead of hot solder at that exact same spot on the ECU board. Funny how that works. A bad day on the soldering line I guess. Now for the reality check. Don's pics show a 96' Disco, the available space to work on my 95' was very tight and I spent an easy hour just trying to get the ECU board out of the it's holder, following the directions that Don provided. The 7 mm nuts(especially the bottom one)were tough to get at with a std. socket set. I would recommend using a small 1/4" drive socket handle with a flex extension and the 7mm socket. That should make things much easier to remove the nuts. I did manage to chew-up the plastic ECU cover after removing the wiring harnesses, but it seemed to stay in place once I placed the cover back over the enclosure and reattached the harnesses to the ECU. One last thing....watch your knuckles and fingers. There are some sharp metal edges along the interior panel & trim pieces that are exposed once you remove the glove box. Take care. I would recommend this DIY to you John, just make sure to give yourself a little extra time. Good Luck Gregg | ||
| John Roche (Jroc) Member Username: Jroc Post Number: 156 Registered: 08-2002 |
LOL Gregg, I did it yesterday too! What a royal pain in the Ass!!! That bottom nut was a huge bitch to get off! Then I lost it, so getting it back on wasn't a problem. But like you said it was a complete success. I didn't remove the glove box, I just flipped it down and worked around it. And as far as the sharp metal edges, yeah, I almost sliced my fucking finger off! Small 1/4" socket w/flex extension did it for me too, after several attempts with various other combinations. How the hell could there be soooo many of these bad solders??? In the exact same place??? I swear if I didn't love this truck sooo much I smash it into a fucking wall!!! |
