235/85-16 vs 245/75-16 on Series I Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Message Archives » 2003 Archives - Discovery Technical » Archive through September 15, 2003 » 235/85-16 vs 245/75-16 on Series I « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have a '95 5-sp with OME medium springs and minor trimming on the rear fenders.

Any thoughts on the 235/85 vs the 245/74? I'm concerned the increase in effective gear ratio on the 32 inchers will make it pretty pokey to drive on-road... Also, will the 235/85's work effectively on stock cast wheels?

Anybody gone with the larger tires and regretted it?
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2474
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I went w/ 245/75 because you can do it w/o having to do springs (I was short on cash at the time). If I had the 2" springs, I'd have gone w/ 235/85R16s instead. Since you already have OME and have trimmed, I would suggest going w/ 235/85... yes, it'll be slower, but you're not driving a race car, eh?

IMHO, FWIW, YMMV.....


-L

 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, August 22, 2003 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Do the OME medium springs (what I have) provide enough lift? Or do you need the heavy?
 

nelson (Discoverutah)
New Member
Username: Discoverutah

Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Your 2 inch lift is perfect for 235-85-16 tires on stock rims. I did have them on my disco 1 and never had a problem at all. However if you go 3 inch lift then I would go with 265-75-16 becaue you shall stand taller and will need a wider stand so when you make does turns are not all over the road.
Nelson
 

marc olivares (Pugs)
Member
Username: Pugs

Post Number: 125
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

as far as making you truck slower (235/85-16),
you won't notice the loss of speed as much as you'll notice the change in shift points, especially under heavy acceleration and hard climbing ( but it's nothing that a set of gears can't ultimately remedy). i running these tires on my on my D1 w/ 3" lift and it works just fine. and there are no problems w/ the alloy wheels.
most people who have tire size concerns are usually more concerned with cutting their quarters, since you've done this, i'd run the larger tire.
marc

nelson- i haven't seen your rig around slc, where you at, who do you trail with?
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 67
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i have a 95 DI, OME MD springs, OME shocks, RN sliders and sway bars removed in the back

i just put some brand new 245/75/16 MT/R's on a set of LR steel wheels. on road the tires are fine. no real loss of power. off road... ill let you know how they are tomorrow.

 

Dave Crall (Discoverover)
Member
Username: Discoverover

Post Number: 78
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

anyone know how much torque is lost with 32" tires compared to the stock 29"? Is it very noticeable? Dave
 

Dave Crall (Discoverover)
Member
Username: Discoverover

Post Number: 79
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i think torque is force by radius and the radius is about 10% longer with the bigger tires, so i think about 10% of torque is lost. i could be way off on this. have you noticed a loss in torque or pulling power at low rpm's. i also can't decide between the 235/85 and the 245/75, and i have a manual disco where low rpm torque is important offroad because of the clutch. Thanks
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 78
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Saturday, August 23, 2003 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Its not just loss of torque. Its also loss of downhill control. You will go down lots faster and use more brakes on the trail with 32's. I saved the 32 inchers until I changed to 411 gears.
 

Peter Sharratt (Gummikuh)
Member
Username: Gummikuh

Post Number: 209
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2003 - 02:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hi Guys
The gear ratios in low are the same across the LR range, and are what is in a defender, which runs that size of tyre, off road is not a problem.
On road it is sluggish and you over rev,trying to get it to move, saying that on a German autobahn, I could cruise at 80mph, and only spin the engine at 2500rpm.
So I could listen to my stereo and talk to the boss.
Change the transfer box to a defender box and all will be fine, you will also need the defender speedo drive.
All the best
Pete S
 

Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4)
Senior Member
Username: Rover4x4

Post Number: 396
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2003 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know a guy with 265/75 MTR's on a discoI with the OME hd supension.
 

James Micheal Fulcher (Jamesf)
New Member
Username: Jamesf

Post Number: 13
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Monday, August 25, 2003 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just put 265/75-16 bridgstone deuler MT on my 95 disco with a ome heavy duty lift and I am very happy with the set up. I have noticed no real change in performance, but it is a hell of an improvement over the 245/65-16s I had on before.

I was worried at first that they would rub or look to big. But once I got them on, I would never go back.

I go off roading pretty often and have yet to have them rub during articulation, granted I dont climb bolders or anything but I dont shy away from many mud holes.

Any way, I suggest the 235s if not the 265s, I think you would like the taller tires. The 245s always looked a little small for a off road machine like a disco.

 

Chris Whybrew (Dcwhybrew)
Member
Username: Dcwhybrew

Post Number: 78
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Monday, August 25, 2003 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

James, do you have any pictures? I'm trying to decide between 245/75-16s and 255/70-16s. Someone else suggested the 265/75s too. However, I don't really want to lift my truck that much. I'd like to keep it looking as much stock as possible. That's probably the equivalent of asking to "have my cake and eat it too"
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 591
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, August 25, 2003 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mark, what are your RPMs at highway speed with the 4.11. For example 70 MPH?
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 74
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2003 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Post WHeeling thoughts....

Truck:
95 DI, OME MD springs & Shocks (10mo old), RN Sliders, Factory brush bar w/LR hella 4000's, QT diff guard on rear, rear swaybar disconnected

OUT: Michelin XPC on Castor wheels
IN: Goodyear MT/R 245/75/16 on stock LR steel wheels.

ON ROAD
1. speedo now reads dead on (measured against GPS) where before with the "stock XPC's" the speedo would read aprox 10mph fast
2. MT/R's feel a little less "on track" truck has a tendency to feel like its wandering
3. eventhough it took a lot of lead to balance the tires, they feel nice and SMOOTH
4. MT/R's are just slightly louder then XPC's are at 50% tread
5. truck no longer fits in garage with new MT/R's. thus i will be swapping them out with my old XPC's on castor wheels... looks like these MT/R's will be my "off road set of tires"

OFF ROAD...
1. for the last 4yrs of wheeling my disco i have ALWAYS used the stock XPC's. the difference between the two is NIGHT AND DAY... Much more then i had ever anticipated. flexi trails where i would get crossed and spin the old XPC's... i now dont have that problem. i think the extra inch of tire size coupled with the tremendous amount of traction have a synergistic effect and i was truly suprised by the difference.
2. Having run 245's now, i dont believe Anyone who says you can disconect your rear sway bars AND put 245 MTR's on your rig AND not need to trim your rear wheel well's. My personal exp has shown me that disconnected rear sb, running on relatively new OME MD springs and shocks (only 10mo old) and meaty new MTR's... will chew up your fender well BAD, when you run FLEXI trails(trails where you get extream amounts of articulation). my suggestion, if you get new 245 and you wheel Flexi trails... CUT your wheel wells BEFORE hand, or else risk tearing up your fender well sheet metal. the only thing i can think of for those who do run 245's on MD or stock springs is that your not running really flexi trails, cause 15min into Hollister i could already hear the "pop pop pop pop pop" of the lugs hitting my fenders. by the end of the day, i ended up tearing the sheet metal, ouch...
3. air down. "on road" i run the MTR's at 55psi (tires are rated to 80psi) initially i left them there and spun the wheels suprisingly easy. so i stopped and aired down to 30psi, the tire handled a much better but still had a little wheel spin here and there. stopped again and aired down to 25psi almost no wheel spin what so ever. my gut tells me i could have done 22PSI +/- a few pounds in either direction and would have been fine, but i didnt want to give up to much tire height, so i left it at 25PSI as a nice compromise

THings learned...
MTR's are good on road and GREAT off road, but they will make short order of your fenders if you dont trim or "volumize them".

hope this experience/info helps!!!

KEN

btw: check us out at:http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/norcalrovers
 

Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode)
Member
Username: Discofrode

Post Number: 124
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 12:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Someone - "please correct me if I'm right":

As far as I can deduct: "Rubbing is determined by the size of the wheel relative to the size of the wheel well, NOT by length of spring."

The taller the spring, the more compression is needed to experience rubbing. But a tall spring will not prevent rubbing.

Why is this?:
Even a taller spring will compress...until it is stopped by the axle bump stop (at which point a big wheel will rub the fender, top of wheel well or both).

BUT fitting a taller spring will

* leave more "air" on top of the wheel (giving the vehicle a more balanced appearance).

* a taller spring will increase amount of articulation at hand to cope with the irregularities of the track you're driving.

* A taller spring will allow articulation even if you have to fit taller axle bump stops to prevent wheel from hitting top of wheel well (or rub the wing.

Is this far off? - please correct me if I'm right.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 5
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 01:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I am thinking about buying 2-3" Green Monster set of springs, to get 235/85/16 set up... But i am wandering - did you guys with DiscoI had to extend brake lines for that much of lift, and if had - how you done it?
Being mere newbie - I never done it , so i am quite worried about that.
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 598
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The reason to extend brake lines is how far the axel will drop. Typically this limit is determined by the left of your shocks. Typically the stock shock and OME are the limiting factor and with these shocks you will not have to lengthen the brake lines. Put on the shocks, jack the vehicle from the frame or armor slowly, watching the brake lines. That is the sure method to tell. If you still have the anti-sway bars on they will likely limit the drop more than the shocks.
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 83
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 01:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Its really a matter of wheel travel, but at 3 inches, you probably should get brake lines. I would consider changing the rears at 2 inches especially if you have done anything to increase wheel travel. Whatever you do liftwise, ramp the truck after your done to check for tight things. You can get brake lines from several places. I know Rovertym and $afari Gard have them on their websites.
Changing them is easy. Remove each final section, put on the new lines, and bleed the brakes. Its a bit messy, so be prepared.
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 84
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Brian,

5th gear, 70 mph is around 2750. Thats just from memory, but its close.
 

Mark Devereux (Groupw)
Member
Username: Groupw

Post Number: 85
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 01:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Oh yeah. This is what 32's look like on a 3 inch lifted disco. Mine are 265/75's

265/75's on a Disco
265/75's on a Disco
265/75's on a Disco
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 601
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 02:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mark any idea how this would differ on an automatic?
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1033
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sergei, you will only need longer brake lines if you put in longer shocks.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 7
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Oh .right.. i just realized.. since there wouldnt be any longer travel - there shouldnt be issue with lines. But then i thought lift itself eats up some of it..

Anyway - thanks a lot, people. I will sleep on it and then figure out - i just want to stick Trxus M/T on mine pretty badly, so i am trying to figure out what i would need (got 245/70 right now)
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 606
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Think hard about the Trxus MT. Although I like the tire overall I have blow beads twice on my NATO steelies when aired down moderately to 25 PSI. Not that big of a deal if you have a power tank or spare, but yet a pain I have never had to deal with with BFG (but I have not run the BFG on NATO steelies, just the alloys.

They do not perform that well on wet rocks either. I have heard that people have sliced the sidewalls, but I have not had an issue with that. They are a fairly low cost tire though. I might get mine siped to see if that helps on wet rocks.

Anyhow if money is not that big of a deal you might want to consider a "better" tire.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2003 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well i am fighting myself to not get another set of Dayton M/T - thats what i have on XTerra and they prooved to be awesome tires on all sorts of terrain. But they are about 50$ per tire costlier.. :-( And unfortunately money are issue - as i still have to get around odd things in that Disco. I finally got it to start without hesistation (yet i will replace crappy battery asap just to eliminate stuff), but i still have engine stalling and clanking when accelerating/releasing ... So much to learn.. :-)
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 76
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 09:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

humm Daytona M/T $50 p/t more costlier then Trxus M/T????

i think when i was looking at Trxus they were around $96-$100 p/t so my math says that your looking at the $150 range for the Dayton M/T's....

why not go with GY MT/R's... excellent traction, and very durable... excellent sidewall strength, and they hold a bead
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 10
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

yep.. they about 150/tire for 31", but i thought GY is more than that, and also i had issues with GY tires - cracking sidewalls, so i havent even considered them. Probably time to review what stores got :-) I wouldnt mind to get my hands on those Moab edition BFG, but they are next to impossible to find.
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1036
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

do you really need a mud tire? Then wait a bit and buy a set of Michelin XZLs, 7.50-16.

If you don't, buy 31" BFG All-Terrains. After not having used them for four years, I got my set back from my brother and drive on it now - they are quieter than Michelin XPCs! And, traction-wise, they fared quite well on the rocks, in sand, and not too bad in snow.

My bedroom windows are facing I-5 - and oftentime I wake up in the middle of the night dreaming about shooting anything that uses 2-stroke engine or mud tires without a speck of dirt on them.
 

CALM (Gumarcel)
Senior Member
Username: Gumarcel

Post Number: 961
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Ken you said you mesured your speed against your GPS. I don't think the GPS is actually most accurate. I tried once having 2 different GPS in my car. A Garmin Streetpilot III and a Meggelin and they gave me different speeds. I would think it would be less acurate since the sats have to update. I may be wrong, but oh well.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 12
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Unfortunately i need mud tires - place where i live got all clogged with snow in winter, and cleaners arent coming up (we live slightly above main city) very often. I had A/T last winter and they didnt do very good job - i even had to switch to 4L just to get off driveway couple times. And its deep mushy kind of snow, so mud tires working better...

As of specs of mud :-) Hehe - i live in 3 hr from Moab and 1/1.5 hr from SW Colorado trails (Alpine loop & etc) - so mine never got clean much unless its raining quite seriously. Another thing about Daytons i loved is that they are quiet - they arent making much more noise than Duelers H/L. Dunno.. I probably will end up going to Sams club and buying BFG Rugged Trails from them, who knows..

On same note - will 31x10.5x16 do trick? i like some extras on sides when airing down - helps to protect rims.

 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1039
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

sounds like you live in Grand Junction :-)

in heavy snow, ATs with chains work wonders. The Disco will dig itself in in no time, with its weight on four narrow tires.

BTW, Alpine loop can be driven in a Taurus... after they plow it, that is.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 13
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Nope, not GJ, Durango. GJ is like 2.5-3 hours from there :-) And about 4 to Moab, at least last time it was for me - was windy and XTerra isnt really easy to drive against strong wind (6v, 3.3L and pretty much same weight as Discovery - you can feel wind pushing you off).

If you got Taurus to made it on Engineer, you got some seriously modified rig :-) Cinnamon is easy (narrow, but easy), but last time i was up on Engineer (early june) there has been puddles and dugged out rocks enough to get Taurus stuck.. Yet - it can be driven in Subaru, so you kind of right :-)

Yeah with chains they (A/T) would do trick, but its kind of feels funny to keep placing them off and on.. I mean lets face it - we didnt have much of mud/a/t tires nor 4wd back in Russia old times and yet we managed to get around in winter in big-time snow.. Whole life like one non-stop offroad :-) I am just getting too soft.
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1041
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 07:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL, that's very true... I'm enjoying not having to lug around a 200lb box full of sand in the car's trunk, together with shovel, chains, etc.

...nah, you don't have to seriously modify a taurus to make it to Engineer's (but IIRC it isn't Alpine loop, at least whatever Alpine loop is called). You may lose a muffler and ding some door sills, but it'll make it. FWIW, the wheel travel on a Taurus (if that term applies) is more than that on an Outback.
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 18
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Chains definitely *are* the ticket in serious snow. Our last Colorado blizzard, I couldn't get up the driveway without getting stuck with AT tires on. Four cross-bar reinforced chains, however, and the thing was a damn sno-cat.
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 78
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 01:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

hey all couple things...

1. i think my GPS is quite accurate... ive timed my audi MANY times over the years and it always read almost exactly to the mile what my audi's speedo read.... in addition, in both my audi and LR it was very consistant. thats why i trusted it over my land rover speedo... well if it was wrong, at least its consistantly wrong all the time

2. both 4x4groupbuy and tirerack have 235/85's and 245s for $136 which is a really good price

3. remember MT/R's are NOT mud tires... they are Maximum traction tires... yes they have an agressive lug pattern of a MT, but they have a special hard rubber compound and stronger sidewalls meant for hard rocky terrain... something most MT's dont have, so your getting the best of both worlds

4. MT/R's are one of the few E range tires you can find... and they also have a high PSI capacity 80PSI so you can pump them up for "on road" yet you can still air them down to 15PSI when your on the trail and not worry about pinching the sidewalls easily

 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 79
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

oh and if you buy 4 GY MT/R's you can get a $50 GC for Best Buy
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 80
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Tirerack survey

MT/R's Results from our online tire survey: 243 surveys submitted 2,810,868 miles reported

Dry traction=9
Wet traction=8.1
Hydro resistance=8.2
Snow traction=9.2
Cornering stability=8.1
Steering response=8.2
Ride comfort=7.9
Noise comfort=7.2
Tread wear=8

Key: Superior (8.6-10) Excellent (6.6-8.5) Good (4.6-6.5) Fair (2.6-4.5) Unacceptable (0-2.5)
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 81
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, August 29, 2003 - 01:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Tirerack survey

BFG MT T/A KM Results from our online tire survey: 96 surveys submitted 1,633,687 miles reported

Dry traction=8.3
Wet traction=7.3
Hydro resistance=7.5
Snow traction=7.9
Cornering stability=7.4
Steering response=7.4
Ride comfort=7.2
Noise comfort=6.6
Tread wear=7.5

Key: Superior (8.6-10) Excellent (6.6-8.5) Good (4.6-6.5) Fair (2.6-4.5) Unacceptable (0-2.5)
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 26
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

So I decided on the 245/75-16's.

The local Discount tire did Geolander AT+ II for $85 a corner, including mounting & balancing.

The Geolanders in 235/85-16 where my second choice, but they where significantly more expensive per corner, an additional $35 each, $140 total.

I also strongly considered Kumho MT's in 235/85-16 for $89 + shipping + mounting + balancing, but I was concerned that their snow performance would be weak, not a good thing in Colorado.

So far, I like the Geolanders quite a lot!
 

michael harrington (Mike97d1)
New Member
Username: Mike97d1

Post Number: 10
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 07:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

pfb,i have also been concidering the geo's, is there any way you can post a pic of the truck with the new tires?..i'm slill a little scared the 245/75 will look small on mine.also are those those tires good off road?
 

Ho Chung (Thediscoho)
Moderator
Username: Thediscoho

Post Number: 293
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


quote:

i'm slill a little scared the 245/75 will look small on mine.




michael, go with 235/85-16. :-) JUST DO IT!


|ho>
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 35
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'll try and post some pics this weekend.

The 245/75's look "right" with a 2" lift. Not oversized, not as wheel-stuffing off-road macho as 235/85's for sure, but perhaps more practical for my use.

As for off-road, I live in the mountains on a dirt road, and getting home in the Winter can be a challenge. I decided MT treads, while looking cool, really offered very little over an AT in Colorado, where rocks and snow are much more prevelant than mud.

I also find that most of my serious back-woods exploring is done on my motorcycles these days... Just more fun, nimble, and fast on technical trails than the LR.

Here's an older picture pre-tire installation, as a test of photo uploading. Near Ouray, Colorado.

Lake Como / Imogene
 

Brian Dickens (Bri)
Senior Member
Username: Bri

Post Number: 668
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

If you wish to see 245 vs 235 look in my gallery.

They both "look" fine, but who gives a shit what they look like. 235 give you less power under stock gears and you really must air down to get more foot print (IMHO). The MT if siped will do very well, even in wet. I frankly do not like the performance of the AT offroad. Much prefer an MT.

I got my BFG MT/ATs for 145 so for that price range I'd forget anything else. If you want to save money (if that is the only object) try to find something around the $100 range like the Trxus or even lower like the futura. If you are trying to save money make it worth your while and if you are spending $$$ just get BFG.

FWIW, IMHO.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 19
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2003 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well i just got back from GOX (Gathering of XTerras) and i decided to set up for Trxus M/T. I been wheeling with folkz who had BFG M/Ts (old style i think) and they suck in comparition with my Daytons, while Trxus on one of trucks done quite well (not as much slippage on wet rocks and mud). Got them shipped out today. If i wouldnt like them - hey, can always swap for something else :-)

Now question is - how much of suspension lift i would need.. 2", from what i gathered here should be fine for 235/85.. bit that kills me right now - i dont want to change shocks, but wouldnt the standard length ones reduce lift height?
 

Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp)
Senior Member
Username: Mike_rupp

Post Number: 266
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Shocks have nothing to do with lift height. You can just get an OME HD spring set and use the old shocks and then swap out the shocks later. The stock shocks will have less downtravel than the OME shocks.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
New Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 20
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

cool :-) thanks, Mike
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 37
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Here's a quick pic with the new 245/75 Geolanders...

245/75-16 Geolander AT+ II
 

Joey (Joey4420)
Member
Username: Joey4420

Post Number: 185
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 12:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How much trimming do you think you will have to do? Looks good. Can't wait to put my lift on next weekend.
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 38
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Very minor cut on the inner lip of the lower rear fender. Well documented elsewhere on this site. Adjust steering stops, also near trivial.

Although certainly not at full articulation in the picture, I've had no problems with rubbing even in extremes.
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1050
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

pfb, how did you get to Lake Como?
 

p (Pfb)
New Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 39
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

> how did you get to Lake Como?

It's near Ouray/Telluride on the Poughkeepsie Gulch trail, to the best of my recollection!
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1057
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Friday, September 05, 2003 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I know where it is, I asked how did you get there - you could come down from California Pass, or come up via Poughkeepsie. And there's a noticeable difference between the two ways.
 

p (Pfb)
Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 41
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2003 - 01:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

As I recall, it was up Poughkeepsie, but it was a few years ago...
 

matt wawak (Chicagorovers)
New Member
Username: Chicagorovers

Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2003 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Is here any trimming or adjustments made to fit 235/85r16 with an ome 2" lift???
 

p (Pfb)
Member
Username: Pfb

Post Number: 50
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, September 11, 2003 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Mixed opinions on wether you need to trim with 245/75's (you might get away with it if you don't remove sway bars and fully articulate, and don't run mud terrains) but almost all agree trimming is required for 235/85's.
 

ken nishikawa (Scubaman99)
Member
Username: Scubaman99

Post Number: 89
Registered: 06-2002
Posted on Friday, September 12, 2003 - 12:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

i think it all depends on what kind of terrain you wheel... i was out with a friend with a D1 running 245 AT and OME HD setup...

his wheels definately rubbed!!!!

 

Ross Thoma (Rossthoma)
Member
Username: Rossthoma

Post Number: 194
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Friday, September 12, 2003 - 01:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I was doing a bit of digging for tires for my 03 and I found 265 70R16 (10.7wide x 30.7tall 7.3" sidewall )they are practically identical to 31X10.5R15 (10.5wide x 30.7tall 7.85" sidewall).

Granted, that size is harder to find since it is not as common but you can get BFG TA/ko's, MT's and a few others brands.

Just a thought big enough but not to big.

Ross Thoma

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration