| Author | Message | ||
     Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 439 Registered: 02-2002 |
Started the 95 D1 after some time sitting and there is an intermittent, grindy squeaking coming from the front of the engine. Disco is not overheating, temp stays in the lower third of the guage and A/C is blowing cold. Belt looks good, and tension seems right. Another related or perhaps not related item: just moved to the South from San Francisco (10% - 80% humidity change), and now my A/C is passing some mist / fog / condensation intermittently as well. Air filter is clean and dry. Any thoughts? Thanks all in advance! Cheers, e | ||
| Tony Zuniga (Tony23007) Member Username: Tony23007 Post Number: 173 Registered: 05-2003 |
A failing water pump will give you a continous screetch sound it is very recognizable it may also increase as the rpm go up and can be pin pointed to the pump very easily. The Viscous Unit will not give you a noise unless is about to fly off the pump. Mine went out about a month ago and the way I was able to determine it was bad was by having overheating problems plus the unit had the same tension when the engine was cold and when the engine was hot!!! | ||
| Charles Allen (Callen229) Member Username: Callen229 Post Number: 68 Registered: 07-2002 |
The AC mist is most likely your drains clogged. Mine did that. You need to check the nipples at the end of the drain lines. These are located above and on each side of the transmission. Charles | ||
| Jason Urban (Geflackt) Member Username: Geflackt Post Number: 46 Registered: 03-2003 |
A month ago the water pump went on the '95 LWB. It had a grinding sound like a bearing was failing. Checked it by rocking the fan - which was incredibly loose! The water pump bearing had gone bad, but it was still pumping with no overheating problems. I had a spare pump handy from when it would only squeak - as if rubber were being pulled over glass(if that makes sense!) Glad I caught it when I did - not a good thing to have that whole fan and viscous coupling come off while the engine is running! Jason. | ||
| Mike Pelechaty (Tonga) Member Username: Tonga Post Number: 56 Registered: 03-2003 |
My viscous unit went last year and Jason's description was exactly what I experienced - grinding noise and loose fan. It also sounded like it was just a bearing, unfortunately the unit is not serviceable and needed to be replaced in it's entirety. Good luck. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 440 Registered: 02-2002 |
I finally ordered the Haynes manual, and I'm looking for the factory service book now. Jason and Mike, How hard is the swap? Did you need any specialized tools and do you need to drain / flush the radiator as a part of the job? I'm keen on doing it myself, but I'm only about as handy as an alternator swap... Cheers, e | ||
| Ed Petrush (Exp3) Member Username: Exp3 Post Number: 81 Registered: 06-2002 |
Erik, You could a couple of issues with a squeaking/grinding noise... the 2 most obvious issues would be a bad water pump or a bad serpentine belt tensioner. Check the fan to see if there is any movement in the bearing and also check to see if water is seeping out of the weep hole at the bottom of the pump (it is very likely that if you have a worn pump, it will begin to leak water) one of the easiest way to track down where the noise is coming from is to use a stethiscope on parts of the engine you think the noise is coming from, it will be obviously louder near the part that is making the noise) If you do not have a stethiscope... just use a broom handle and put one end of it to the motor and the other to your ear.. it will work fine as well. If you aren't loosing any coolant, my guess would be your bearing is failing in the idler pully. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 441 Registered: 02-2002 |
So, grabbing a blade of the fan just below the yellow warning on the fan shroud, I get a little play if I move back and forth, radiator toward the motor. Not huge, but definitely seems loose. That sound Jason describes is consistent with my sound - not constant, but every few seconds a grinding "chirp" sound. So, other than the water pump, gasket and belt - any other recommended parts for this swap? Is the viscous clutch / fan a necessary element of this job? I'll do a write-up on the swap with pictures - thanks again for the help! e | ||
| Jason Urban (Geflackt) Member Username: Geflackt Post Number: 47 Registered: 03-2003 |
The hardest part about replacing the water pump is getting the old gasket material off. To get the viscous coupling off, I used one of those rubber pipe wrench things and wrapped it around the pulley. I then rested the handle on the tensioner and used an adjustable wrench on the coupling nut. Gave the wrench a couple o' whacks and it broke free. Reverse that to put it on. My fan assembly was OK. Seemed like the water pump bearings were shot. Don't forget to use thread lube on the long bolts that hold the water pump on. Jason. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 443 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jason, Yeah that mix of 10mm and 11mm bolts is a b**** - especially those two directly under the pump. Would have been a lot easier with the fan off! I'm an idiot...  Another question if you're still online - does the gasket go on wet or dry. If wet, did you use a special RTV? Thanks for the very good advice. e | ||
| Jason Urban (Geflackt) Member Username: Geflackt Post Number: 48 Registered: 03-2003 |
Still in the middle of working on it?? How'd you do with getting the gasket off?? Was it a real pain to get all the old gasket off?? I used a gasket scraper and a 3M pad. Might have been easier with a little gasket remover spray, but I was on a roll and didn't want another trip to the store. I think I only used a slight bit of Hylomar to hold the gasket in place. But I did use it very sparingly around the whole gasket - not on the red side as far as I remember. Great pic. That's gonna leave a mark. My fav was the episode with Keaton, Sandler as the grandma, and Chris pulling down a shelf of plates from above a window.... Jason. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 445 Registered: 02-2002 |
I had to go buy some more tools last night, good advice on the strap wrench, thanks - I'll be back at it today. Nathan is sending along a new pump, gasket, serpentine belt, vacuum advance, so it may not go together until early next week. My gasket was half on the pump and half on the block. I've yet to go after it! Another Rover guy told me that this is definitely a dry gasket, and to only use a temporary adhesive to hold it in place (e.g., Hylomar). I shouldn't admit it, but Tommy Boy holds a place high on our favorites shelf along with Raiders of the Lost Ark, Casablanca and The Thin Man amoung others. Cheers, e | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 451 Registered: 02-2002 |
Anyone have the torque specs for the water pump? Thanks!!! e | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 427 Registered: 02-2002 |
8. Locate water pump in position. Tighten remaining water pump housing bolts evenly to 28 Nm. (taken from workshop manual for V8) | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 452 Registered: 02-2002 |
Robbie, When it says remaining, does that mean the long bolts have already been attached at a different spec? e | ||
| Robbie Donaldson (Robbie) Senior Member Username: Robbie Post Number: 428 Registered: 02-2002 |
that i wasn't sure of. for some reason, doesn't mention the rest. here is straight from manual: Refit 6. Lightly grease new joint washer, position on timing cover. 7. Clean threads of all long bolts and coat with Loctite 572 thread lubricant-sealant. 8. Locate water pump in position. Tighten remaining water pump housing bolts evenly to 28 Nm. 9. Reverse removal procedure. 1 to 3. (1 to 3 being reconnect hose, replace fan, fill coolant) 10. Check for coolant leaks around all hose connections and joint faces. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 455 Registered: 02-2002 |
Robbie, You're a life saver - thanks. I ordered the Haynes book early this week - it's coming from Great Britain, so who knows when it'll show up! e | ||
| jerry d quintana (Exjeeper) Member Username: Exjeeper Post Number: 51 Registered: 02-2003 |
Dont feel to bad I had to replace my water pump in the middle of the arizona desert 150 miles from the nearest dealer on my way to mexico from colorado. My fan clutch had seized some time ago without me knowing which in turn caused the water pump to go by by. If it wasnt for the mechanic at the local dealer bringing the part and tool down I dont know what I would have done. we were back on the road 6 hours latter two hours after he got off work. would have been sooner but he didnt get off till 6:30. I was lucky the fan didnt take out the radiator. | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 456 Registered: 02-2002 |
I've been warned that it is a good idea to carefully inspect the fan during a water pump change. Any cracks or hint of fatigue at the base of the blades is reason for immediate replacement - good insurance against a destroyed radiator! e | ||
| Erik Olson (Jon) Senior Member Username: Jon Post Number: 463 Registered: 02-2002 |
All, I haven't finished the little "tech article" yet, but the water pump swap is done! Thank you again all for the great advice on the job, I appreciate the assist. Cheers, e |
