| Author | Message | ||||||
     Guy Kiem (Java01) New Member Username: Java01 Post Number: 2 Registered: 08-2003 |
Took mine in for the 45,000 maintenance. They inspected and said my serpentine belt needs replaced. $60 for parts and $120 for labor. That doesnt bother much. My rear rotors and brakes need replaced. They quote me for $600. Is this something I can do myself, any special tools required? Want to save some $. Does anyone have the instructions for replacing the rotors? | ||||||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 612 Registered: 08-2002 |
That is silly. You can likely replace the belt in about 15 minutes. The rotors are pretty much self explanatory. I have done this on a D2 but not on a D1 and did not need any instructions. I think you remove the wheel, remove the caliper and carefully hang it somewhere. Then there is one screw that removes the rotor. The ones that I installed on a D2 where from D.A.P. and at the time (3 months ago or so) were supposedly the cheapest and were genuine. I think it took 2 of us about 3 hours to do, including brake pads, lunch break and removal of the rack so it would fit in the garage. Sorry I do not have specifics on how to do it, but it really was pretty easy. You will need a big flathead screw driver for the screw on the rotors. You may need to attach a vice grip to it to get pressure on the end of the driver and good torque to turn it. Take off the wheel and have a looksee. | ||||||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 622 Registered: 08-2002 |
There is another thread on this topic too. Apparently the set screw is not just philips, but looks like large philips NOT flathead as I mentioned. Look for the other thread John Lee has some good advice on tools there. However, I released the set screw with a large philips and vice grip. ../2/31894.html"#444444"> | John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 430 Registered: 03-2003 |
It's not Phillips. | ||||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 625 Registered: 08-2002 |
Just to be clear, is it Philips? ;-) | ||||||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 99 Registered: 05-2003 |
Here's what I would do: ( I have a 97 D1) Jack up rear axle. Remove road wheel Remove brake pads Stick a broom handle between frame and body by wheelwell.. makes a convenient spot to hang brake calipers Unclip the brake line from the axle Tie the brake caliper to the broomstick so that it does'nt fall when you remove it. Unbolt the caliper with a 12 point metric socket and move to the side. I don't have the size handy, but you need a 12 point socket to remove the caliper mounting bolts (97 disco) If its a D2 the calipers are mounted with big Phillips screws. Remove the bolts in the center of the hub.. these are the axle shaft bolts, and pull out the axle. Bend back the washer that keeps the outer hub nut from turning and remove it using a 2 1/16 socket. I looked all over ofr one locally and could not find one. www.atlanticbritish.com sells them for about $20. you can also check wth www.discountbritishparts.com they may be cheaper. Remove the washer. Count how many threads are left between the inner hub nut and the end of the hub. This way when you replace it, you can get it back to the same spot. Pull off the hub with attached rotor. At this point, you should be able to detach the rold rotor and mount the new one to the hub That rounded cap sticking out through the face of the stub axle near the edge is the ABS sensor. I just wiped it clean. while you have the hub off, you may want to repack the bearings with grease Put the hub back on the stub axle, carefully so that you don't mess up the grease seal. Mount the inside hub nut and make sure that you have the same number of threads showing on the stub axle as before Put the locking washer on so that the bent tab is on the side of the hub nut. Replace the outside hub nut, and bend the tab on locking washer towards you. Replace the axle shaft. you may need to wiggle it a little to get it to seat properly in the differential. Replace the Brake caliper and brake pads. Don't forget to clip the brake line back on to the rear axle and take the broom handle out. Mount the wheel, lower the truck, and we're done! | ||||||
| Dave (Plain2000dii) Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 56 Registered: 05-2003 |
Java, just did mine last month. A monkey could do it, provided you can get those "phillips" screws that secure the rotor out. Don't know what your skill level is, but remember to seperate the caliper(two small bolts behind caliper) remove brake pads, loosen the main caliper bolts(12 point 13mm socket). you'll need the following stuff. metric socket set(12 point) 3/8" will do. can of brake cleaner spray(wipe down the rotors) a way of removing the "phillips" screws(see the other thread for ideas) I used some "blue" locktite during reassembly(because I saw it there from factory Just do it man, Dealer brake work is a ripoff! | ||||||
| Dave (Plain2000dii) Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 57 Registered: 05-2003 |
Eeks! Jamie what's all that about? you trying scare the guy? If its a D2, the calipers are held on by bolts (phillips? where'd you get that?) There is no reason to remove the axel (brake job here, not a rearend overhaul)Once you've done one side the other is a piece of cake. You'll wonder why you never did you own brakes before. If it gives you any confidence, I'm doing the front rotors and pads today during lunch. | ||||||
| Jaime Crusellas (Jaime) Member Username: Jaime Post Number: 100 Registered: 05-2003 |
Dave I have a D1, and it just seemed easier to get the rotor off the hub by pulling the hub off. We're only talking 5 bolts for the axle, and 2 nuts for the hub. And you have the opportunity to repack your bearings while you're at it. | ||||||
| One_Bad_Needledick (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 538 Registered: 02-2002 |
Guy, what year is your truck? Once that is established, then we can tell which set of instructions to follow. | ||||||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 626 Registered: 08-2002 |
Yeah no kidding. If this is a D2 then it is one heck of a lot easier than what Jaime says. For D1, never done it on mine. | ||||||
| Dave (Plain2000dii) Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 58 Registered: 05-2003 |
Java, all done with the fronts. rotors and pads. About 2 hours, I work slow and I've never done fronts before. so there ya go. | ||||||
| Guy Kiem (Java01) New Member Username: Java01 Post Number: 3 Registered: 08-2003 |
I have a Disco II. I just ordered the rotors and brakes from motorcarsltd.com. Brian, does it really require 2 people? Jaime, dont know this applies to a D2, but the instruction scared me a litte. Thanks for providing though. Dave, I like your instructions, I hope they're as simple as you describe. Guy Than | ||||||
| Dave (Plain2000dii) Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 64 Registered: 05-2003 |
Your getting ready eh? Maybe some better instructions are in order: First I suggest you go to sears and get yourself a handheld impact driver and a #4 cross bit, this is to loosen the retainer screw(makes the job way easier, some PB blaster(liquid wrench), can of spray brake cleaner, and a piston compression tool(some guys use a large C clamp(i dunno how) Apply parking brake,loosen lug nuts, jack up one side, place jack stand under axel, remove lugs and wheel. Look for the single phillips head screw on face of rotor, use your new tool to get it out. Look behind the caliper, see four bolts that hold it all together. The to furthest out are the ones that hold the actual caliper, take your 13mm 12 point socket and loosen them, now look for the brake line and ABS wire(only the ABS wire needs to be removed from its capture) have a strong coat hanger to hang the caliper from(NEVER let the caliper hang from the line!) or i used a 5 gallon pail to set it on top of,/remove both bolts. At this point you'd think the caliper would just fall off but no, the pads are caught on the lip of the worn rotor, I pried it off with a screw driver bettween the caliper and the bracket part thats still attached to the axel. Yea it sounds crude but it worked. Hang the /set the caliper aside. Look around back of the rotor and find the two bolts holding the caliper bracket on loosen/remove them. Cool, now you just need to get the old rotor off, gentle persuasion with a 5lb hammer outta do it. Check around a little clean up some and take the new rotor clean it and keep it clean! place it on the hub (line up the screw hole!) if it doesn't want to go on smooth a little more persuasion(use a wood block to protect your shiney new rotor) once its set on the hub install screw to "pretty tight" (how technical is that?)remember its only there to keep the rotor on w/o a tire in place. Reinstall the caliper bracket & bolts to "really tight" (there i go all technical again!) Now on to the pads: Peal the sticky off the pads and place them into the bracket,NOT THE CALIPER,(be sure to have the tapered leading edges facing down(into the rotation) This wiil take several tries since they all seem to look the same but, after a few tries you'll see that all's right when you have two that match with tapers pointed down. Use your new piston compression tool or C clamp if you figure out how and push the piston all the way back into the caliper(don't go over board here when it stops its done moving) Now time is your enemy, you have to remove the compression tool, hanger/pail and swing the caliper over the pads and down to the bracket mounting holes before the piston creeps back out. On your mark, get set, go! Try getting the bottom bolt in and then you'll have to press(to compress those springs on top of the pads down) to get the top bolt to line up. Tighten these back up to "really pretty tight"(somewhere in-between) Recheck all the hoses and wires, recheck all the bolts, throw that tire back on. YOU IS DONE! Other side same as the first. Guy, I am not a mechanic, Please understand the information here is from a single experience. Omissions,errors and other oversights are unintentional and should be expected. With that said mine are working great after about a month.. Good Luck, look me up when you want to do the fronts( a little trickier but still doable) Good luck! | ||||||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 67 Registered: 07-2003 |
If you are going to pull the bearings out you may as well replace them as well. One less thing to do in the future. I imagine someone sells pre-pressed bearings for landies? | ||||||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1376 Registered: 04-2002 |
Well, I'll probably get in trouble for saying this, but a large set of channel lock pliers and a metal block will help to compress the calipers as well. Or, you can use the handle of a cresent wrench and the metal block. However, I found the channel locks work just fine. PS - The local dealer here quoted me $900+ for a rear rotor/pad job. Needless to say, I ordered the parts and did it myself. | ||||||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1885 Registered: 02-2002 |
"Well, I'll probably get in trouble for saying this...." Why? Is the Channel lock police reading this? LOL! Personally, I prefer the cresent wrench technique.  | ||||||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 68 Registered: 07-2003 |
You can rent a rear brake caliper compression tool from autozone. I paid a $35 deposit that is refundable upon return of the kit. It's a nice kit and fits many different makes. It was the only way I could twist and compress the pistons on my other cars. | ||||||
| James P Groom (Jpg) New Member Username: Jpg Post Number: 29 Registered: 06-2003 |
Sears sells a single piston compressor for about $10. | ||||||
| Alex Schubow (Alex) Member Username: Alex Post Number: 68 Registered: 02-2002 |
I've never replaced rotors on a D2, but replacing the rotors on ANY vehicle is an easy job. if you have large screws that 'look like phillips" they are Pozidriv. You can get Pozidriv bits from any pro tools vendor, such as Snap-On, Mac, etc. Not Sears. As far as compressing the pistons, no need to rent or buy any special tools. Use a large C-clamp if you have it, if not, use a screwdriver handle, or large channel-locks. This ain't rocket science! |
