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Gregg Gallagher (Gregg_gallagher)
New Member Username: Gregg_gallagher
Post Number: 4 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2003 - 10:27 pm: |
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I have a 95' DI that I've owned for over a year. Mileage is at 106k and the truck is in great running condition. It's a great family hauler and winter driver. The previous owner drove the DI mostly around town and on the highway. Near as I can tell it's never been off-road...I like to change that with some local trail events here in W. Mich. My problem is that the CDL shifter is frozen in the 4 wheel "High" position. It will not budge...period. Cannot shift into 4 wheel low or lock-up the differential. I've never really needed to use the CDL before. I've spoken to the Rover dealer about a repair, but I would like to see if there is a DIY fix. Any tech or repair info would be greatly appreciated...Thanks Gregg |
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Phillip Perkinson (Rover4x4)
Senior Member Username: Rover4x4
Post Number: 413 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2003 - 12:15 am: |
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do a search this issue has been beat to the ground. the linkage is frozen. Liberal amounts of PB blaster may loosen it up. Just search the archives you will find info on this. |
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Phil (Discoanywhere)
Member Username: Discoanywhere
Post Number: 69 Registered: 06-2003
| Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 08:59 am: |
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Pretty Easy fix! Remove cdl knob and boot. Remove plastic ring around base of trans shifter/ Remove power window cover and remove power window assembly from center console (4screws). Squeeze the spring on the emer. brake handle boot and pull out. Remove pin from emer. brake handle and position handle straight up. Remove screws infront of cdl shifter and screws inside console box. Lift console slightly and remove cig. lighter wires. Pull console up and out.. Remove padding, and pull out heater ducts and move aside. Remove small bracket in front of cdl which supported the console. Now you need to drill out the rivets holding the rubber boot. Remove the boot.. and there is your frozen cdl assembly.. You may need to remove it to free it up. Soak it, and if you need hammer on it! If you do need to use a hammer I recommend taking the cdl assembly apart!! The plastic piece which holds the ball on the shaft in position can crack and brake when hammering!! Hopefully you wont need to remove it and just soaking everything and trying to force the shaft to move will work... email me if you need more help.. [email protected] |
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Dave Thomas (Davet)
New Member Username: Davet
Post Number: 3 Registered: 09-2003
| Posted on Monday, September 01, 2003 - 10:40 pm: |
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When we got our '94 a few years back we had the same problem. The linkage was frozen a bit but the real issue turned out to be a frozen solinoid. The solinoid has a pin that gets retracted to allow the t-case to shift from high to low. To get at the solinoid you take the same steps that Phil listed above...its on the top of the t-case. When you push the button on your shifter you should be able to hear the solinoid 'click'. Of course, odds are its just stuck linkage, so hopefully you wont have to mess with the solinoid ;-) |
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Howie (Fritos)
Member Username: Fritos
Post Number: 42 Registered: 01-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 04:37 am: |
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A gent devoted a web page regarding this problem. Here it is: http://people.cornell.edu/pages/efe4/images/rover/difflock/discodifflock.htm Good luck! Howie
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dareDVL (Daredvl)
Member Username: Daredvl
Post Number: 74 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, September 02, 2003 - 10:20 am: |
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I've managed to work mine free. I can fairly easily get it to LOW, and LOCKED HIGH .. I'm hoping for LOCKED LOW some day. Keep working it once a week at least .. mine is getting pretty good now.
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Gregg Gallagher (Gregg_gallagher)
New Member Username: Gregg_gallagher
Post Number: 5 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Sunday, September 07, 2003 - 09:44 pm: |
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Follow up to my 8/30 posting. I can report some success. I was able to get the CDL unfrozen following the link Howie provided. I went through the top after removing the center console. The shifter now moves freely from left to right and the diff locks and unlocks in what I assume is the 4w high range. But two problems...One the diff did not disengage from "locked" during a road test. I moved the shifter from left to right normally but no luck. I still have the shifter housing open. I was able to use the 13mm socket and extensions to turn the nut connected to the linkage on the top of the transfer case to "unlocked" and shift the auto. from drive to reverse as suggested in the Rover manual. That worked...once. Right now the diff is in "locked" and the dash warning light is on. Is there an issue with something electical? a solinoid? Secondly...The shifter moves fine left to right but still will not move forward into N or 4w Low. There is some play in the linkage forwards and back but no solid connection in the gearbox as far as I can tell. Any hints or advise?? Thxs. Gregg |
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Evan (Bahnstorm)
New Member Username: Bahnstorm
Post Number: 12 Registered: 03-2003
| Posted on Monday, September 08, 2003 - 09:50 am: |
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You can try and move the lever forward while you are rolling, very slowly, 5MPH, and see if that helps. As for the diff-lock light not turning off on the dash after use, you most likely have wind-up. Just try backing up about 20 feet or so with the diff lock off and it should "unwind" it and turn the light off. Evan |