| Author | Message | ||
     Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 77 Registered: 07-2003 |
Alright, I was trying to swap out my springs and shocks on my 97 Disco, and I only got up to the part where I have to remove the bottom bolt for the shock mount. What did everyone use to keep the shock from spinning? I tried a C-clamp and vise clamp, but nothing seemed to hold it from spinning enough. The bolt is damn hard to get loose too. I did apply that spray that is supposed to loosen the bolt, but didn't do anything. The most frustrating 5 hours of my life! haha. Suggestions greatly appreciated. | ||
| max garcia (Max_n_erica) New Member Username: Max_n_erica Post Number: 24 Registered: 02-2003 |
Eric Try visegrips real tight. If you don't like that idea on the bottom of the shaft two side were flat and you can fit a small wrench to hold the shaft till you break the nut loose. Good luck Max | ||
| EricV (Bender2033) Member Username: Bender2033 Post Number: 236 Registered: 08-2002 |
You can try a strap wrench or large channel locks. The channel locks worked for me. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 78 Registered: 07-2003 |
I tried visegrips on the bottom part of the shaft, but the flat area is so small the visegrips kept slipping off. I was thinking of the strap wrench too. So frustrating. I'll give your suggestions a shot tomorrow! Thanks | ||
| noel Bond (93dico) Member Username: 93dico Post Number: 45 Registered: 06-2003 |
Eric, We will be here :-) I was able to just hold mine with 1 free hand while I gave the nut push. noel  | ||
| Tom Fioretti (Tom_in_md) Member Username: Tom_in_md Post Number: 96 Registered: 02-2003 |
The tip that worked for me was the strap wrench. I picked up a set of two at Sears, and used the smaller. May need to jack up a little higher to fit the wrench between the coils. | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1880 Registered: 02-2002 |
Big ass channel locks from Sears worked for me. The trick was to get another person to turn the nut while I clamped onto the shock. This was on a D1 with 60K miles and still sporting the original stuff. What a nasty mess! | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 164 Registered: 04-2003 |
You can always do what a friend does when he changes his shocks, grab the cutting torch and just cut the nut off and start working faster.... Just watch the rubber it will catch fire. | ||
| p (Pfb) New Member Username: Pfb Post Number: 20 Registered: 08-2003 |
A job for which air-tools really help... | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 647 Registered: 08-2002 |
Dont use any pliers on the bottom of the shock, use a small wrench. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 1019 Registered: 02-2002 |
If you're just trashing the current shocks once you get them off anyway - grab the lower portion of the shock with channel locks as noted above - done! Make sure to put anti-seize on the stud of the new shock so you don't run into the same problem in the future. Bill | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 650 Registered: 08-2002 |
Even using channel locks, you are likely not to ruin them. Just scratch them a bit. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 79 Registered: 07-2003 |
Thanks fellas for all the suggestions. I'm going to grab a channel lock tomorrow. I actually tried to stick a dremel in there and cut the bolt off, but the area was too small to get it in there. Thanks for your support, I feel a lot better knowing everyone else has done this and it's possible to get the damn bolt off. haha. I was one nerve away from sending my truck in to a shop to have it done, but I think I can do it. Keep ya guys posted Cheers, Eric | ||
| Rich Zellmer (Personalt) Member Username: Personalt Post Number: 41 Registered: 11-2002 |
I did mine this weekend also, didnt have a big problem on the front side. I also used channel locks. On the bottom of the shock there is a area that is textured for gripping with a wrench. Make sure you put the wrench there. Also, if you know anyone that has one or if you dont mind buying a new tool, I would recommend getting a 19mm ratchet wrench. the kind that is basicly a boxed end wrench that rachets. There is not a lot of room in there and it takes a long time to get the nut off with a regular 19mm boxed end wrench. But as a FYI not sure if you plan to do all 4 shocks... I had a big problem with the bolts on the back side. Part of the problem was that I only have a 19mm socket in 3/8 inch and my breaker bar is 1/2 inch drive. I had to put a steel pipe over the end of my 3/8 ratchet to get it off. I am looking at possible getting a air rachet or impact wrench this week to make things easier for next time.. | ||
| John Lee (Johnlee) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Johnlee Post Number: 437 Registered: 03-2003 |
I like Bill's advice. Use some channel lock pliers to grab the shock body tightly and torque off the shock's lower nut. You're going to toss the old shocks anyway, so the channel locks are appropriate. On the front shocks, I find it easier if I turn the entire shock instead of the nut. I just put an open-ended wrench on the lower mounting nut, turn the wrench so that it is resting against the shock mounting bracket, and then turn the entire shock with the long channel locks. On the rear, I find it easier to hold the shock stationary and use an impact wrench or breaker bar on the bottom nut. The top of the front shocks is usually a bigger problem than the bottom. The upper nut rests in within the shock tower and this receptacle often pools with water. The top nut is usually even more rusted than the lower one. It's also harder to access. And it's harder to hold the shock stationary while removing the top nut. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 855 Registered: 02-2003 |
i've been so desperate as to drill a hole thru the shock body and insert a big screew driver to prevent it from spinning. i ended up shearing the metal body off the shock (oil everywhere) and had to litterally drill 3 holes into the nut and stud to get the thing off. it can be an unbelivable job. especially when the one on the otherside comes off with little effort. rd | ||
| Wes Legaspi (Wes) Member Username: Wes Post Number: 168 Registered: 02-2002 |
I know the feeling about the other side coming off easily, for my passenger side front shock, I used channel locks, vise grip (2 kinds), a table mounted vise and a shit load of liquid wrench, finally got the nut off with a dremel. For the drivers side all I used was a wrench and a vise grip. | ||
| Brent (Silly_me) Member Username: Silly_me Post Number: 69 Registered: 07-2003 |
Is the end of the shock not a star/allen patern? If it is you guys can try and jimmy together a tool by cutting a section of a socket out so you can slip an allen wrench in to hold the shaft stationary as you wrench on it. .02 | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 80 Registered: 07-2003 |
alright fellas. Tried the channel lock method today, and after an hour of tugging with my buddy the shock wouldn't budge an inch. My hands, legs, arms, etc hurt now. I'm scared to attack the other side (i'm doing the drivers side now, people above said the passenger is worse?). I want to cut off the bolt, what should I use? I tried to get a dremel in there, but there's not much room. And with a dremel it's impossible to cut the bolt off horizontally. What else can I use? A drill? I'm desperate to get this damn bolt off, and my ego is going down the drain. Damn nut!! | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1887 Registered: 02-2002 |
Eric, Sounds like you need to go to the gym.  Did you try the recommended method above of using a buddy to hold the channel locks while you turn the nut? | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 174 Registered: 04-2003 |
Either Air Impact tools, or a cutting tourch.... | ||
| Alex Schubow (Alex) Member Username: Alex Post Number: 67 Registered: 02-2002 |
When I took the stock shocks off my truck I used a large pipe wrench to hold the shock body. The shock didn't spin at all, and both of the studs snapped off when I put a lot of effort into turning the wrench--that's how rusted they were after spending two years outside in Chicago. I tried the channel locks first, and all they did was gouge the shock. Pipe wrenches are made to hold on to round objects, so it seemed like the perfect tool. | ||
| Ian Bentley (Ibentley) New Member Username: Ibentley Post Number: 17 Registered: 06-2003 |
I used a large pipe wrench as well. Worked perfectly. Depending on your springs, you probably need to lower the front axle so the large head of the wrench will fit through. | ||
| Jim Macklow (Macklow) New Member Username: Macklow Post Number: 10 Registered: 03-2003 |
I have found that cutting a few thick rubber bands and wrapping them around the shock does wonders for increasing the grip when using a big set of channel-lock pliers to hold the shock. | ||
| Porter Mann (Porter) New Member Username: Porter Post Number: 40 Registered: 05-2003 |
Is the shock still spinning? If it isn't, then use a small wrench for the nut, and then put a piece of pipe that fits the wrench for some added leverage. Anytime I can't get a nut to move, I use the pipe. Even if you don't have a lot of space to move the end of the pipe, it helps by putting a lot of force on the nut. If the shock is still spinning, then get a hammer and flatten out two spaces on either side of the shock so that the channel lock can have a solid surface to clamp down on. | ||
| Eric (Epuffy) Member Username: Epuffy Post Number: 82 Registered: 07-2003 |
I did it! Actually, I just got fed up so I used the combination of a drill and dremel to get that one bolt off. The 3 others went smooth as silk and came off within 10 seconds and barely any power. I hate the builder in England who put on that drivers side front shock bolt! Channel locks worked really well for me. They kind of scraped up my pretty new shocks a little, but who cares. I think a good tip was spinning the shock itself, and not the bolts. And to the guy who suggested I need to go to the gym, thanks for the advice. That was very helpful too. haha. Thanks Discoweb. Eric | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 639 Registered: 07-2002 |
If you are taking out the old shock then vise grips to the point where it is crimping the shock. If that doesn't work, like it didn't on one of mine... saw it in half right at the base of the shock... hey it worked worked. When you put the new one on there is actually a flat sided nipple at the top and bottom, you can use a small spanner (I think it was 7mm for the OME's I put on) and that works great for holding it when tightening the new shocks down. | ||
| Paul D. Morgan (V22guy) Dweb Lounge Member Username: V22guy Post Number: 1892 Registered: 02-2002 |
Eric, I am glad that you saw the gym comment as a joke. Some folks around here have waaay to thin skin. |
