| Author | Message | ||
     Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis) Member Username: Dvrontisis Post Number: 223 Registered: 04-2003 |
a friend of mine has all the equiptment to paint cars. he'd almost do it for me for free as long as i supply the paint. i'm painting it the same color so i dont have to take it apart. how much is Beluga Black paint by the gallon? does anyone know? | ||
| John Kruger (Johnnyk) Member Username: Johnnyk Post Number: 236 Registered: 02-2002 |
It depends on the type of paint you buy. John www.teampb.com | ||
| Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis) Member Username: Dvrontisis Post Number: 226 Registered: 04-2003 |
i want whatever came stock with my rover. beluga black | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 343 Registered: 11-2002 |
I painted my scout LR Coniston olive green. I used a two part super hard epoxy paint and an additional hardener to help prevent scratches. the materials where close to $600 . but it tacks unbelivable abuse off road and still looks nice with minimal scratches. I could have had the exact same color in some shit paint for about $130 . You get what you pay for in paint | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 672 Registered: 05-2002 |
I have been hashing this out in my mind since your original post. Fortunately, Thom has come along and placed in words what I was missing. The first thing you need to ask yourself is: what do you expect? From there you can determnine the quality. As you might expect, the labor is the least expensive part of the job. That being said, if your bud is really good enough to paint your ride, why are you posting about the best paint here? If he is good then he should be able to make an excellent reccomendation  | ||
| Damien Vrontisis (Dvrontisis) Member Username: Dvrontisis Post Number: 227 Registered: 04-2003 |
he's done repainting on jeeps before. never land rovers. i was just curious as to the price of LR genuine paint. thom -- did you get your materials from Land Rover directly? if not, where? | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 311 Registered: 10-2002 |
Damien- It's really too bad that high schools no longer offer the shop classes they used to. All four years of high school I had a shop class including auto mech shop, welding, auto painting and wood shop (I hated wood shop!) Even the girls were required to pick either a home ec. class all four years (sewing, sewing II, cooking, etc.) or a shop class. It was a parochial school so I guess I'm really in the stone age. Anyway, it's been years since I painted a car but here's what little I know: Go to an automotive paint store in your area with your LR paint code from front engine area. It's not just matching the color but also knowing what paint is already on your vehicle and what is OK to paint over it and what prep work is needed. Matching color to your paint code can be done with a number of paint types and paint manufacturers. Whether urethane, epoxy, acrylic enamel, etc. they all have advantages and disadvantages. I don't know for sure but I'd bet your LR uses a modern water-based, low-VOC, enamel type paint and it's probably made by either Sikkens or Glasurit. A good auto paint store could help you decide what is appropriate. Just remember, a bad paint job can ruin more than your day. It's no fun riding around with orange-peel-ridden paint job with runs. A good paint job with the right choice of paint not only looks good, but makes it easy to buff out "back country pinstriping" and the like. Buy a book on auto painting and read everything you can even if you're not doing the painting yourself. The HP paper-bound books available at B&N or Borders is a good start. My 2 cents- | ||
| todd slater (Toddslater) Senior Member Username: Toddslater Post Number: 341 Registered: 08-2002 |
Damien, For the most part black is black. F the LR geniune paint. Really no such thing, as Greg said the paint manufacturer is somebody else. Best look is a two stage base coat clear coat urethane. PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, BASF/Glasurit/RM all make them. My .02...unless your scratched down thru the clear into color and primer....buff it out. | ||
| Ron Johnson (Chauner) Member Username: Chauner Post Number: 58 Registered: 05-2003 |
Here is the Martin-Senour color formula for Beluga black, color code 416, sales # 41469 which you can buy at any NAPA store. This is for the basecoat. 9882 UHS BLACK 433.3 433.3 9872 HSF YELLOW 454.6 21.3 9883 UHS MAGENT 460.7 6.1 There are no alternates. I would seriously recommend the Martin Senour paint even though I believe there isn't much difference between the major paint companies. Here is everything you are going to need. 5182 Tec/Shade black sealer. At least a quart. TS1, TS2, or TS3 reducer depending on the temperature, buy a gallon since it is the same reducer used for the clear. 5150 Undercoat(sealer)hardener. A pint should do. The sealer mixing ratio is 4 parts sealer, 2 parts reducer to 1 part hardener. Of course the basecoat black, you'll need 2 quarts. Then buy 2 quarts 8882 basecoat stabilizer(reducer). Mixing ratio is 50-50. Clear I recommend 8639 Super Glamour Clearcoat, at least 2 quarts, perhaps 3. Then one of the TS reducers and a quart of 8876 hardener. Mixing ratio again is 4 parts clear, 2 parts TS reducer and 1 part hardener. Remember, half the paint job is the prep and to do a good job there is more in labor than in paint materials. $600.00 in materials sounds reasonable but to have a shop do it, it will cost over 2 grand with labor. |
