| Author | Message | ||
     Alexander W.Inglis (Blusky4u) New Member Username: Blusky4u Post Number: 4 Registered: 08-2003 |
ok...here we go. I have a '96 disco and I've been doing as much as possible and now I've reached the spot where I need to spend the serious money.This year I finally got stuck twice in one month and liven in Florida its pretty ez to do but each time that I was stuck I know that if I had Lockers I wold of driven right out insted if digging myself in. ***Now I'm wondering if I can do something that we do in race cars.Can I open the rear differential and have the spyder gears welded so that my rear will give me full time posi traction and put an ARB locker 'n compresor for up front? Has anybody done this before? Pro's & Con's guy's? | ||
| Jack Quinlan (Jsq) Senior Member Username: Jsq Post Number: 462 Registered: 10-2002 |
only if it is a dedicated, trailered, offroad machine. good luck turning on the street with a spool in the rear. | ||
| Alexander W.Inglis (Blusky4u) New Member Username: Blusky4u Post Number: 11 Registered: 08-2003 |
thanks, what would you suggest then? Whats the cheapest way to gain the most traction through the differentials then? then theres the cost,what would be the average price to to a good solid way to do this? | ||
| Alexander W.Inglis (Blusky4u) New Member Username: Blusky4u Post Number: 14 Registered: 08-2003 |
I heard that there was a pretty inexpensive way (around $140.00) per axle do get my axles to spin the way I need them when I need them(again it was a dedicated race truck) and not a Rover either. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 969 Registered: 02-2003 |
no the rover diff is weak, it will blow up. don't post here asking how to butcher your truck like this. discoweb is not "about" how to do it the cheapest way, it's about how to do it the best way. if you cant afford the best way, start saving. | ||
| Luis Constantin (Luisc) Member Username: Luisc Post Number: 156 Registered: 02-2003 |
You won't find any lovers of "Lincoln lockers" here bubba. I was going to post that yesterday. But I decided to wait and see what others thought first. Good way to snap an axle, too. | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 698 Registered: 05-2002 |
Two simple words: Detroit Locker | ||
| Alexander W.Inglis (Blusky4u) New Member Username: Blusky4u Post Number: 18 Registered: 08-2003 |
who sells detroit lockersand u hear that i would have to do axles as well with the detroit,why not tha ARB set up front and rear? btw! im not lookn to butcher up my truck! I'm tryn to get as much input as possible cause I've got a bunch on know it alls that r always telling me whats best.Anyways i know nothing about a two link system and landrovers thats why im asking.Oh per say the cash! as soon as i figure out with who comes up with the best set up fer me i'll go buy it. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 811 Registered: 02-2002 |
Two arbs + pump = 2 x $800 + $280 = $1880 + shipping. www.atlanticbritish.com If you want to ook around for a better price you could knock a couple hundred or more off that price. But this gives you an idea of the price and will give you ultimate control front and back. Then add $4-500 for HD axels. Dean | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 325 Registered: 02-2003 |
Yes, and it will allow you to get farther and deeper before you get yourself stuck. With your budget, get the winch first. Use the leftover funds for a good set of tires as suggested. Then start saving for lockers later. - Axel | ||
| James (Jimmyg) Senior Member Username: Jimmyg Post Number: 393 Registered: 10-2002 |
First, take Axel's advice. Second, an ARB is around $600 and pump is $180. Pay no more than that. HD axles are about $600. Install $150. If you're spending the money, don't waste it on a detroit. Do it right the first time. As I always say, you never hear anyone with an ARB in the Front and Rear wishing they had a detroit. Winch and tires first. | ||
| Jack Quinlan (Jsq) Senior Member Username: Jsq Post Number: 466 Registered: 10-2002 |
"you never hear anyone with an ARB in the Front and Rear wishing they had a detroit" uhhhhhh....yeah you do. right about the time they push the button and nothing happens. I see you have an ARB and it's good to know that you're pleased with it but there's been a fair amount of discussion on this topic and making a blanket statement like that is misleading. can you guess that I have a detroit? | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 704 Registered: 05-2002 |
James, "If you're spending the money, don't waste it on a detroit." LOL. I am not sure what to make of this statement. I am sure you are happy as a clam with your ARB's, but why in the world would you think a Detroit is a waste of money? Is it inherrently weaker? Does it not lock when the button is pushed? (hint: like an ARB: NO!) Does it not have more than a few decades and many more happy users on say...an ARB? What are the technical details of your enlightened statement that may help the rest of us fledglings along? | ||
| Koby (Koby) Senior Member Username: Koby Post Number: 560 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh shit, the sub captain is back. Release the depth charges! | ||
| Phil (Discoanywhere) Member Username: Discoanywhere Post Number: 81 Registered: 06-2003 |
Check out... http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/catset.html Some good info on your locking diff options... | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 49 Registered: 06-2003 |
I have to agree with recovery first before you worry about traction mods. Recovery does not mean only an electric winch, could mean manual, could mean hydrolic and does address the necessary components such as recovery points, straps, jack, chains, etc. Once you have your recovery issues sorted, then you have multiple traction options regarding your drivetrain, overlooking the suspension and tires of course... But I have a suggestion for you Alex. Why not do some more reading in the archives and on other boards. You are sure to see there are only a couple of choices that will suit your needs but first you have to know what those needs are and ID these for yourself. Then come back to the board with questions regarding your narrowed choices. I have replied in an E-mail to your questions and have seen other posts from you, all getting to the same question. Do some homework first, else suffer the broad range of opinions and experiences that you will need to filter through. Sooner or later, someone on this board will get tired of this same old thread and build a matrix showing pro/cons for each diff application and post this in the Tech section. I guess I could have started this... maybe I will. Bruce | ||
| James (Jimmyg) Senior Member Username: Jimmyg Post Number: 394 Registered: 10-2002 |
good idea Bruce | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 704 Registered: 08-2002 |
I have heard some good things about detroit and about true trac, but at this point am pretty leary about something that is auto switching. Although the Disco is not truely made for either, anything that is not selectable could engage when you do not suspect or wish it to. If it does so at an inappropriate time it could be bad. I have heard here about the bangs that detroit owners hear and it seems to be pretty common. Any kind of bang is likely not a good thing. My current belief is that these non-selectable lockers likely put stress/wear on the transfer case and possibly other components since they are active all of the time and could easily get confused about whether to lock or not in *somewhat* lose conditions. At least in theory these non-selectable lockers could lead to premature failure of driveline components. As a result the selectable locker like ARB is my current preference on a Disco. Spools are completley unacceptable for a combination trail/road vehicle and in fact are likely unnaccetpable even off road since you will still have problems turning and over-stress many components again leading to premature failure. | ||
| Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 262 Registered: 10-2002 |
But in practice the Detroit just plain works. I've driven a few now and the ones behind an auto transmission are very transparent. I say get a rear Detroit Locker and a front Detroit True Trac when the time for lockers comes and don't worry about it. | ||
| Milan (Milan) Senior Member Username: Milan Post Number: 263 Registered: 10-2002 |
Well OK maybe you will need rear shafts. But the Detroit works very well. | ||
| Will Cupp (W_cupp) Member Username: W_cupp Post Number: 76 Registered: 07-2003 |
The Detroit does work Very well. But... If I did it all over agin I would use the ARB's. It may not make that much of a difference in the rear, but up front where I have the TT now, I would love to have the ARB. | ||
| Chris Nutter (Nutter) New Member Username: Nutter Post Number: 5 Registered: 09-2003 |
Detroit Locker vs ARB Locker (PROs & CONs) Please keep in mind I am new the the Land Rover game for off roading but I have had years of practical application when it comes to CJ5s and CJ7 Jeeps and 66-77 Ford Broncos. Both ARBs and Detroit are equal in strenth and are very strong lockers but here is how I see it. PROs ARB: Selectible locking and unlocking of the differential. This is good because when you are off road you can lock your differential up when you need it (added traction) then on the ride home you unlock it and your back to a open differential for the advanatages that gives (handling on the highway)you on the highway. CONs ARB: Air Compressor, Air Lines to Differential, ETC.... IE more stuff to go wrong. Nothing like being on the trail and having your compressor go out or have your Line to your differential get cut or break. COST $$$$ ARB lockers cost a bit more than Detroit lockers. Both when you buy it and have it installed. PROs Detroit Locker: Its Bullet proof and It works, after install your axles are locked End of story. It is also known as the toughest Locker made they are known for not breaking even under extreme abuse. Look at all the pro / hard core rockcrawlers and trail guys out there They run Detroit. CONs Detroit Lockers: After install your axles are locked. This is also a con due to the fact that this can effect highway driving. Detroits are also sometimes make more noise than ARBs. So what does this all mean? Simple really,If your truck is just a offroading truck with limited on the road driving go with Detroit Lockers front and rear. This will save you money when buying them and having them installed. Plus you will never have to worry about the air compressor giving out or the air lines breaking or being cut. If your truck is a part time heavy offroading disco go with ARB upfront and a detroit in the rear. This will give you a good full time locked up rearend that will not let you down and a Selectible front end that will help you out on those hard trails were you need it. It will also give you a better highway driving preformace plus save over all costs for you. If your disco is only a part time light to moderate offroading truck go with alot of highway driving go with ARBs front and rear. This is the most expencive option but will work out best for you. Best regards Nutter | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 178 Registered: 05-2003 |
Maxi drive lockers work similar to ARB's but use engine Vacuum not air so you don't need a compressor. They come as a kit including axles and the new diff hemispheres made out of billet steel. The cross shafts/spyder gears are also bigger. They are the strongest selectable locker opion out of there. | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 50 Registered: 06-2003 |
I know someone who is setting-up their rig and has installed a DL in the front. Of course it's not a road vehicle but I will be interested to see the struggle when cornering with those fronts locked and watch him run into things. Prediction = he will change it after 1 trip. We all know the disadvantages of a DL in the rear when tight cornering is required,(as seen with Kyle in the Rubicon video as an example) but imagine that in the front as well. We shall see... BTW folks, the video is exceptionally well done. Bruce | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 185 Registered: 11-2002 |
"I have heard some good things about detroit and about true trac, but at this point am pretty leary about something that is auto switching. Although the Disco is not truely made for either, anything that is not selectable could engage when you do not suspect or wish it to." The Detroit and TrueTrac are extremely predictable. Apply power (ie step on the gas), the Detroit engages. When you let off the gas, to turn for example, it will unlock - it allows differentiation. The TT requires slippage to engage, so it is rather transparent onroad. "If it does so at an inappropriate time it could be bad." Can you elaborate? "I have heard here about the bangs that detroit owners hear and it seems to be pretty common. Any kind of bang is likely not a good thing." The bang lets you know it's working and is actually very cool. It is NOT indicative of a problem, period. "My current belief is that these non-selectable lockers likely put stress/wear on the transfer case and possibly other components since they are active all of the time and could easily get confused about whether to lock or not in *somewhat* lose conditions." Nope. The only stress is on axleshafts, and I don't mean to discount that. You're using your t-case and driveshafts anyway when you step on the gas, the Detroit and TT do not affect their operation or lead to premature wear of any components (except a Detroit in the front of a permanent 4WD system w/ no manual hubs). "At least in theory these non-selectable lockers could lead to premature failure of driveline components." Reality is a bit different. The only time a Detroit sucks is in ice. It takes a few miles to get used to them, then - esp w/ an auto transmission - they are transparent. The occasional bang induces a broad smile.  joe | ||
| david summers (Texmoto) Member Username: Texmoto Post Number: 81 Registered: 12-2002 |
Detroits may suck on ice. Other situations as well, like muddy, off camber ledges. I suggest reading Bill Burke's article on driving with lockers. It is interesting and free on his web site. See the Resources section. david | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 186 Registered: 11-2002 |
David, have you driven significant distances with a Detroit? like in muddy offcamber ledges? I have yet to find an offroad instance where the Detroit sucks - except ice (sideslopes to be exact). Everything else is predictable. We run a lot of muddy offcamber slopes here in Ohio and never once has it been an issue. Gets back to the driver - gun it (or gun an open diff rig) and you'll slide or roll. Nice easy going provides amazing traction. joe | ||
| david summers (Texmoto) Member Username: Texmoto Post Number: 83 Registered: 12-2002 |
No. Did you read the article? I'm just suggesting that anyone interested in the pros and cons of driver controlled vs automatic lockers read what Mr. Burke has to say. I found it interesting and helpful and thought others might as well. | ||
| James (Jimmyg) Senior Member Username: Jimmyg Post Number: 395 Registered: 10-2002 |
Lockers will push you in a straight line no matter what you have, which is a bitch when you are on a tight trail. With the Detroit, you have to deal with it, with the ARB, you just turn it off. Professional rock crawlers prefer ARB for this reason. You need HD axles or they will eventually break. When you do break an axle, the ARB will still engage the other axle while the detroit will just fail to deliver power to the functional axle (when I saw this happen on the trail, it could have been the result of the Detroit breaking which was discovered later). A TT is NOT a locker and if that is want you want, you will be disappointed. Most people who love the Detroit don't realize how important being able to unlock is on the trail. | ||
| Mike Rupp (Mike_rupp) Senior Member Username: Mike_rupp Post Number: 274 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jimmyg, the way the Detroit is designed, it will usually break if an axle snaps and become completely locked up. When my brother broke his axle we heard a loud pop & weren't quite sure what happened. The vehicle still drove home even without the cdl engaged. The axle was broken cleanly in half & the DT was broke as well, but still giving power to the functional axle. | ||
| thom mathie (Muskyman) Senior Member Username: Muskyman Post Number: 345 Registered: 11-2002 |
flip a coin to see if the detroit will work after a axle breaks under heavy load. a failed axle shaft is the achilles heel of the detroit. the ARB's achilles is the air lines and compressor, but if you route them correctly that is really not that big of deal. steering with a fully locked truck is severely compromised so being able to unlock at will makes a truck a joy to drive. anyone that says muddy sideslopes arent a problem with a fully locked rear end hasent driven on truley greasy off camber trails. plus road manners on icy roads with a rear detroit are sketchy at best,where open diffs will keep you straight all day long with 1 finger on the wheel. detroits are very reliable and very very proven but ...I'll take ARB's thank you...they are better MM | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1014 Registered: 02-2003 |
every passing day i'm thinking dual TT's and a winch is the way to go | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 56 Registered: 06-2003 |
Jimmyg, The selection of TT will cause disappointment? Give me a break dude. To make that statement without knowing what the person is intending to do with the rig is simply passing bad advice, just admit it. There is not a thing about the TTs that would disappoint anyone. Now if you are into rock crawling over various scenarios and you pick TTs then shame on you and carry some spare CV joints. TTs are simply not the best slow-crawl application since wheel spin requires the gears to lockout. I don’t think I would want to tackle the Rubicon with TTs since wheel spin = higher revs = uncontrollable vehicle pitch = potential damage. If this guy lives in Fla, then I know the TTs will be awesome for the majority of his terrain. Just qualify your statements in the future to avoid sending the wrong message. Next thing you know Alex is out dumping all kinds of cash into ARB or Detorit+axles when another less expensive and possibly more appropriate application is available – TTs, not to say ARB or DLs are bad, just lots more $$$. Alex, you have to know the diff-application and match this to your terrain, very simple. OK, nuff said. Oh and BTW, you think your statement about TTs disappointing people pissed me off? | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 348 Registered: 02-2003 |
TT a disappointment, I wouldn't say that.... I run one up front, with a Detroit in the rear, as does Kyle. That setup got us through both Rubicon and Dusy, not to mention the 7K miles of highway across and back. In all fairness, there are times when the front TT makes steering harder, but all in all, the Detroit/TT combo is a solid setup with few points of failure. It is also transparent on the road. - Axel | ||
| Shawn McKenzie (Shawn) Member Username: Shawn Post Number: 125 Registered: 10-2002 |
Can someone explain how the limited-slip works on a TT when one tire is in the air? If you're climbing a hill and get into a cross-axle situation with only a rear TT, does enough power go to that back tire to pull the truck over an uphill obstacle? (assuming the unlocked front axle is just spinning the airborne wheel) I don't run trails with anyone who uses a TT, and I haven't been able to find the answer to this anywhere. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1020 Registered: 02-2003 |
TT in thje air is going to behave like normal open diffed axel. if you apply a little break it will sometimes trick the TT into sending pooweer to the othjer tire. if your center diff is locked then you will still have 50% power to rear tires. lockers and TT are can fool you into thinking they arent really doing much. you'll sail thru and obstical because of the traction you had prior to the roughest part. where in a stock truck you might be slipping and sliding and where you get to the deepest part of the rut you lift a tire and stop. with locker and to a LIMITED slip TT you might not know how tuff it was. the locker is locked, the limited slip is limited in some situations. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 710 Registered: 08-2002 |
Joe, I believe it is more important to think about when will a Detroit not engage? When wheel speeds differ is the answer AFAIK. So what happens if this automatic feature does not happen instantaneously or at the wrong time. In theory it is possible that there are conditions that the detroit will not disengage appropriately or even for an instant, putting addition unneeded wear on other components. I have read in a few places that one place where this can happen in acceleration through a corner, which I do very often. So what is the bang noise if it is just indicative of it working? From what I have heard it various in degree from owner to owner? Bangs in vehicles typically means contact between parts and that means additional wear. maybe I am wrong, but it just doesn't sound good. It is my personal opinion that the biggest plus for a Detroit is reliability and the bigget con of the ARB is realiability. With that said this can be addressed by having the ARB installed properly and possibly not using the ARB compressor. I have even heard of using an ari tank with the ARB. Another HUGE disadvantage to me is that the Detroit is automatic vs selectable. Not only will there be times when you would prefer not to have it engage, but I do not like many products that leave control out of your hands. | ||
| Joe M. (Little_joe) Member Username: Little_joe Post Number: 187 Registered: 11-2002 |
Brian, the only time a Detroit will not engage is when it is broken or when you let off the gas and there is wheel speed differentiation. Otherwise engagement is instantaneous when you apply power. When I drive my truck, I turn corners too. I start into 90* turns under power, coast a few feet, then power again - and no tire chirps. When I don't let off the gas, tires chirp. It took 10 minutes to adjust to this and learn. Anything less than 90* turns does not require any different driving style. You're overemphasizing the wear question, which is not an issue *except* for a front-end applications. If you understand how differentials work and in relation to the entire powertrain, the only difference with a Detroit is the locker itself. The bang results from "windup". It is completely normal. The old Detroit Locker did this frequently, the SoftLocker (updated design) rarely. Think abut all of the areas you have contact between parts - pistons, crank, valves - contact between parts is required to produce power and movement. It's the design, maintenance, lubrication, materials, build that determines longevity. There's a reason the Detroit has a legacy. All of the horror stories of the Detroit are from those who've never owned one and read (and read into) things on the internet. I have had one in my Toy for several years and 25k miles here in the snowbelt. It is transparent onroad. It's awesome in snow, sucks in ice. Contrary to Thom's statement, it is not death on offcamber slick stuff (which I've run a lot, mud and snow/ice but somehow isn't valid to him), I don't slide and roll when just looking at greasy offcamber let alone driving it. I am adamant that there has been only one single incident I didn't want the Detroit, and that was on a significant offcamber downhill completely covered in ice. The same hill was a cakewalk going up. The Detroit isn't for everyone, I know that. Depends on your needs. I respect your desire to retain control: my priority is reliability and due to that I will never consider an ARB. Facts, not myths, should be considered as well. Sorry for being so long-winded. joe | ||
| Sean Arney (Seana) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Seana Post Number: 51 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have to partially agree with there bud, I run a TT in front, Detroit in back and I think the benefit of it being transparent and mechanical outweigh the possibility of not disengaging. TT is now a "soft lock" so they dont really "pop" like that anymore. More - I have seen lots of my buddies with ARBs in front grip up in an obstacle, have to stop what they are doing and throw the switch, wait for the comressor, proceed a bit, turn it off, turn the truck, turn it back on, operate the clutch, turnb it off, turn the truck...etc...they swear by them I guess but I just laugh with my TT up there, stereo on, smokin and jokin concentrating on the obstacle...so unless you pick a straight line and just "go" through every obstacle, IMHO, the TT is better. Ive also seen people with ARBs acidentally turn on the lockers by bumping their switches - case in point, the 110 on the front page of DW!! Poor Wolf has his buttons mounted just below the drivers seat and when he puckers his ass on those obstacles - sometimes it turns on, LOL!! That said, if I lived in a snowy or icy area, I might think differently, but I believe on the trail, TT is the way to go. They are SUPER easy to engage with a tap of the brake - ever see a new RR or a DII try to engage their LR traction control when they are on a nasty obstacle - humorous!! Detroit also has a new locker called the ElecTrac which is similar to the ARB, but is electronically engaged - I dont thionk they have a LR model out yet, but maybe - I havent checked in a while. Now here is a huge downside to Detroit and TT - I was on the Golden Crack last spring and unwittingly broke an engine mount which caused the engine to twist under heavy load. While in the middle of the crack, the engine twisted and the accelerator cable pulled the truck to wide open!! Hang on man, like a ride at Wet and Wild!! Then to finish the trail the rest of the obstacles were torture. I felt like Fred Flintstone trying to 2 foot the brake with all my strength to hold her back AND make the obstacle...with the lockers not being able to shut off, the truck will want to "crab" accross ledges possibly throwing you into rocks, holes, or even worse - over a clif!! Granted that was a rare occurance, but the point is you CANT turn 'em off no matter what you want. All in all, I am glad I have the Detroit/TT combination. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 558 Registered: 04-2003 |
I've got ARB rear, open front, and it's been good enough for me. However, as I advance in age I realize that I increasingly need a little help now & then, so I've decided that I'll eventually pop a TT up front. Messrs. Lee & Chung have been trying to convince me to move the ARB up front and go DL rear, but I don't want to deal with the front axle issues Mr. Arney is talkin about up there. I also think the front TT will settle down the steering a bit as the white whale gets taller. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 713 Registered: 08-2002 |
That chirp is one thing that I do not want to have to adjust for. What do you think the ramifications are for that chirp? I would like my vehicle to perform as designed on the road and I do not believe that the detroit allows that. I am not aware that there is anything related to power to engange/disengage the detroit. As far as I have read, it is only wheel speed differences that disengage it. If it were instantaneous, you would not hear a chirp. The chirp indicates to me that the detroit is locked, and it sounds like from your description this can happen on pavement. That would not be good. From what I have read the detroit itself is a strong differential, it is what it does to all of the other components that is dislike, plus the inability to turn them off. I am not saying that the detroit is the wrong choice, I am saying that likely it will not be my choice. ARB are very reliable if installed properly. Sure there might be more to go wrong, but I have been on a ton of trails with a ton of experienced drivers that have ARB and I have not seen any of the reliability issues that people talk about. Blue: Don't count 100% on that TT fixing any wandering issues. It is not every case that it will solve this kind of issue, plus it only remedies the symptom, not the problem, which is likely camber. I was thinking along the same lines, but have talked to a few people and believe that it would be better to solve the problem vs. the symptom. Then you can choose what you really desire to have in the front. I do like the idea of the TT in front though, seems like you would have the benefit of additional traction plus the ability to steer. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 564 Registered: 04-2003 |
so a TT is kind of like valtrex? | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 717 Registered: 08-2002 |
Yep. But I'd rather have a wandering disco than.... | ||
| Bruce Potier (Brucep) Member Username: Brucep Post Number: 60 Registered: 06-2003 |
Oh well, you gotta choose what makes you feel comfortable, right Brian? With a TT in the front it makes the steering rather 'thick' feeling and coming out of corners is really great since TT makes you feel like you are on straight rails. Sooner or later I will drop a DL in the back, but $$ needed for axle upgrades is going towards other maint issues right now. BTW, seems as though you have turned the tide from no-automatic stuff/additional wear&tear to TT is good option for the front. Hmmmmm, another convert? | ||
| Jack Quinlan (Jsq) Senior Member Username: Jsq Post Number: 473 Registered: 10-2002 |
my detroit doesn't chirp or bang. and I even put it in myself. | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 570 Registered: 04-2003 |
where did you put it? | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 349 Registered: 02-2003 |
And we have that on video, too.... It will be included in a future Dweb video.. - Axel | ||
| Ross Thoma (Rossthoma) Member Username: Rossthoma Post Number: 201 Registered: 08-2002 |
How about TT's both front and rear on an 03? Will the ETC make it lock up or what? How will both systems work together. Ross T | ||
| Sean Arney (Seana) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Seana Post Number: 58 Registered: 05-2003 |
Ya know, I've never heard of that being done, and you have factory TC. Maybe John Lee could chime in here - what about the imfamous "ElectTrac" it almost sounds like the perfect mixed solution...its not on EE yet so Im assuming they still dont have a LR offering. Axe, I did not sign a waiver for you to use my image or likeness in any way, but you can as long as it's not that scene after Hell's Revenge | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1023 Registered: 02-2003 |
TT's front rear+ locked center diff + ETC are a great setup rd | ||
| Wes Legaspi (Wes) Member Username: Wes Post Number: 176 Registered: 02-2002 |
In regards to steering wander, will a TT upfront fix it or not? After speaking with Bill at GBR, he suggested the Castor corrected bushings for my DI. There have been a few posts regarding the castor corrected bushings, but nothing clear. Any comments on this? thanks | ||
| Rick Neff (Lostinboston) New Member Username: Lostinboston Post Number: 36 Registered: 06-2003 |
The TT up front will help the steering wander. I have a 3.5" lift wit tt and detroit and it rides as straight as new. TT, detroit and etc are as good a combo as anything out there. Castor correcting brushings can limit your articulation. -Rick | ||
| Clay W Davis (Cwdavis4) New Member Username: Cwdavis4 Post Number: 8 Registered: 09-2003 |
Ok, so I have read this email thread several times, and went to various web-site to try and understand, but I still can’t answer the question on what does it take to add locking differentials to my ’03 Disco. So here are some basic newbie questions: 1) Is there a difference between “lockers” and CDL? 2) How is TrueTrac different from ARB or Detroit lockers? Why would you need both? 3) Are there any other recommend Disco upgrades required to install ARB or Detroit? It looks like ARB requires a compressor but what about the axels? | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 748 Registered: 03-2002 |
Clay: 1. yeah but the concept is the same. The CDL locks the front and rear together, a diff locker locks the axles. 2. TT is a LSD (limited slip), not a full locker like the Detroit or ARB or etc. Generally, the TT will not stress axles like a locker but it also will not provide the same level of performance. 3. from my research, HD axles are highly recommended (required?), maybe R&P too, for a locker install in a disco. Although these "locker" threads are rehashed about every two months, I still follow them because it helps to keep focused on what you think is important for your conditions and your rig. FWIW, as soon as I get the cash, I'm going with complete new third members, gears, TTs front and rear. My reasoning: I have a winch already, I hear good things about the TT/ETC combo in real-world conditions, I'm sticking with 32" tires and I don't want to go with HD axles. HTH | ||
| Frank Rafka (Mongosd2) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Mongosd2 Post Number: 123 Registered: 02-2003 |
2001 DII, TT's front and rear (also have cdl) for about 2 years, 45k. I'm running 4.11 gears and HD rear axles from GBR, 285/75 Yoko MT. I've only broke 1 front cv joint, from my own stupidity, not from the set-up. I live in upstate NY so I see alot of snow and ice and haven't had a problem with that. driven LOT'S of highway miles and LOT's of off-road miles, LOT'S of difference conditions and locations and really like the set-up. Right now I'm running without ABS/ETC/HDC beacuse I need to have the computer re-set (replaced a sensor) and refuse to pay $150.00 to the •••••••••••. The TT up front helped the wander...I've wheeled with guys with a Detroit and ARB's, to each thier own, way to many debates and beers to clearly state a difference... | ||
| Clay W Davis (Cwdavis4) New Member Username: Cwdavis4 Post Number: 9 Registered: 09-2003 |
Thanks Mike, this really helps. It seems like the recommendation is to add HD axles if you add lockers. This will definitely require some $$ savings since we are talking about a few thousand $$ to complete the mods. Rumor has it that LR will be offering a CDL upgrade kit since this is being offer in the '04 model. Would it be better to wait for the LR CDL kit or is the LR CDL not that great. Thanks again. | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 749 Registered: 03-2002 |
First two mods I did (I think): Sliders and a CDL lever. THere are numerous CDL options, but make sure you have a tcase with the lock bolt. Everyone has an opinion about D2 CDL options, IMO a manual option gets the edge, though the solenoid version is very stealthy. If LR has a kit one day, you can bet it will be unnecessarily pricey. I think Bill@GBR is readying a CDL kit for the tcases without the lock bolt (mid 01 and later). | ||
| Ross Thoma (Rossthoma) Member Username: Rossthoma Post Number: 202 Registered: 08-2002 |
""""How about TT's both front and rear on an 03? Will the ETC make it lock up or what? How will both systems work together."""" I don't have a cdl so how would the system work just having tt on the axels??? rt | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 729 Registered: 05-2002 |
Ross, Not well at all. If your center diff is open, it will still want to send torque to the axle with the least traction. This will cause ETC to play hell on your drivetrain. Then again - it may be no worse than open diffs all around. Still, I would suggest finding an older used T-case with the CDL stub (1999-2001) before you do diffs. I have heard of some going for about $400 used, but don't quote me on that. -Curtis |
